When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Went on another cruise today, put about 20 miles on -- I tried to attach a log but it wont work for some reason? I did upload my tune and would love for someone knowledgeable to just check it over
The car seems to be getting kind of hot, not sure what is going on but I am seeing temperatures hovering around 200 going up to 206 before I got home. Fans are coming on, I do have the supermiata reroute which I think comes with 195 thermostat... but it just seemed warmer than I have heard others saying. Air temp was about 70
fuel pressure regulator is showing 60psi right now (do I change any settings for this over the base 43psi?)
*edit* it looks like the two logs did upload? Car shut off a couple times
what was your process for burping the coolant system?
Yeah the SuperMiata reroute makes it easier to get the bubble that gets trapped in the back of the head out with the bleeder on the thermostat housing. But its still good practice to get the front of the car as high as you can get it as the coolant comes up to temp. I had to get a couple of heat cycles with the reroute in place for it to bleed properly. I would start there before getting into any hardware diagnosis.
Yeah the SuperMiata reroute makes it easier to get the bubble that gets trapped in the back of the head out with the bleeder on the thermostat housing. But its still good practice to get the front of the car as high as you can get it as the coolant comes up to temp. I had to get a couple of heat cycles with the reroute in place for it to bleed properly. I would start there before getting into any hardware diagnosis.
The FM one has an air bleed port as well but I still jack the front up and use one of those funnels that seals to the radiator caps. I think I’m going to buy the harbor freight vacuum coolant filler for my upcoming coolant fill.
So now that I’ve slept on it, the supermiata reroute is a 195 thermostat so seeing 205 temps really shouldn’t be that concerning — I did some digging around and found a lot of people run around 200 with them
which, thinking back to my old setup, I had a 180 in there and am just used to like 190 temps and got worried when I saw 200
Im still going to do a proper bleed, but maybe was a little overly cautious here 🤷🏽♂️ Can anyone with a supermiata 195 thermostat confirm ~200-205 coolant temps?
200-205 is a little warm, especially since Rochester shouldn't have very high ambient if my geography is any good. There is a sizable bypass on the thermostat, so it takes some time to get up to temp, but never above 195-197 for me on a 16 mile commute home. That's with a water cooled turbo, SM radiator, no AC, and no oil cooler.
Regarding the past few posts about bleeding: the bleeder port and tipping the car up aren't for the same purpose. The bleeder port on the SM thermostat neck is to let trapped air escape the housing itself. It's also a decent way to fill the system as it gives it a breathing port for 90% of it's capacity. Once its a steady stream of coolant, close it and fill the rest. I personally fill with a bleed funnel and a level car, no issues on a dozen SM reroutes I've installed. I start it and let it get warm (100-120), then increase the revs to 2000-3000, making sure I have heat out of the vents. You can wait until the thermostat opens and see if it takes more fluid, but with the previously mentioned bypass, the purpose of that process is not relevant to the SM reroute.
200-205 is a little warm, especially since Rochester shouldn't have very high ambient if my geography is any good. There is a sizable bypass on the thermostat, so it takes some time to get up to temp, but never above 195-197 for me on a 16 mile commute home. That's with a water cooled turbo, SM radiator, no AC, and no oil cooler.
Regarding the past few posts about bleeding: the bleeder port and tipping the car up aren't for the same purpose. The bleeder port on the SM thermostat neck is to let trapped air escape the housing itself. It's also a decent way to fill the system as it gives it a breathing port for 90% of it's capacity. Once its a steady stream of coolant, close it and fill the rest. I personally fill with a bleed funnel and a level car, no issues on a dozen SM reroutes I've installed. I start it and let it get warm (100-120), then increase the revs to 2000-3000, making sure I have heat out of the vents. You can wait until the thermostat opens and see if it takes more fluid, but with the previously mentioned bypass, the purpose of that process is not relevant to the SM reroute.
Hey thanks Curly, was hoping you would chime in here (also hoping youd look at my initial map if you get a minute... promise I am getting real tune in the next couple weeks, but have to put some break-in miles on in the meantime and want to be safe)
I will do a proper bleed this weekend... i should also note that this was cruising around without a hood or undertray and that could have something to do with it... probably not a great pressure differential over the radiator. Hoping between slapping the hood on and a proper coolant bleed that I can keep it under 200
Ended up at my tuners dyno today watching Stefan’s k24/7163 build get tuned and had him look at the tune really quick; he made a couple changes, but also said that “it’s ready” and we are moving the dyno day to this Tuesday 3/30
so I’ve got a few things to do between now and then! I want to burp coolant, put my other wheels on, check my belt tension because I get a quick squeal on startup and I think it’s alt belt, and want to get the R8 coils on and working too. Doable I think
Got the Flowforce R8 coils on and working, put the nose up on jackstands and burped the coolant system and let it cycle a few times so I think that took care of that!
Tomorrow I will put the wheels on, I have to put 1 exhaust hanger on (lost one and 4 zips ties are in its place), and swap in the turbosmart recirculation valve... the EFR one is as bad as everyone says
But otherwise... I think it’s about ready for the dyno Tuesday
edit: and put the hood on, ha
FlowForce R8 coils on, and mazdaspeed oil cap... looks so much better
Ok, I took a look. I won't post any changes, because there are a lot I'd make, not necessarily good or bad. I will say, you're ~4* more advanced than I'm running. I don't know how good I built my engine, but it survived perfectly to 330hp, so I'd like to think I did a decent job. I tuned with knock control, and found my ignition table to be safely within the limits, but close to them. 2 degrees more would generate knock, hence my concern with your ~4* extra. Personally, if you haven't already, I'd take 2 degrees out from 100kpa up, then an additional 2 degrees above 100.
Secondly, it looks like you've gone up in your ignition table by 10kpa, then eventually by 20kpa. Although that looks clean, a lot of boost gauges controllers, tuners, dynos, etc go back and forth between psi and kpa. Since kpa has way more resolution, I change my tables by psi, in boost I go up about 2 psi or 30kpa at a time. That way, if you tune to a psi, you're always in a row, rather than constantly interpreting in between. Currently you'd be going up by 2.9psi every row.
This goes for your idle tables too, your final target is 900rpm, but all your tables have a column at 800 and 1000 or above.
Thirdly, you can use cold advance to also retard timing if your engine gets too hot, along with MAT based timing retard, you might wanna look into that.
I appreciate you taking a look! I did take your advice and pull timing out for the drive over to the tuner tomorrow — other than that, I am going to let him take care of everything else and scale to his liking.
Weather seems to be holding out, finished up a few little things today... I think we are ready to go for tomorrow!
225 rivals back on, monster truck mode to make getting on my lift easy... and he lives up the craziest driveway and having some clearance can’t hurt Well then Turbosmart Hood back on, cleared everything without issue
spoiler: nothing blew up, still came home on a flatbed
On our way Dyno time, 11am-530pm... thorough
Car did great, had a couple small issues — small coolant leak from the heater hose that just needed to be tightened, intercooler piping popped off and had to cut and bead-roll a piece to make it fit better, almost melted the AFR wires on the downpipe but caught it in time, had too much pre-load on the wastegate and was overshooting on the high end which was another easy fix
He had no problem tuning the DW1000s or R8 coils once he input the right values
As for numbers, Ricks dyno (Dynomite Land and Sea) legitimately reads pretty low, lower than mustangs and much lower than dynojets... It’s pretty well known in our area that if you make good power on his dyno, you make GOOD power. He’s been the best tuner in our area for more than a decade, he is a wizard, and I genuinely trust him more than anyone when it comes to this stuff. This is the internet, I really don’t care if you don’t “believe” me, whatever, dynos are a relative instrument used for tuning and I picked up a bunch of power today
Tapering to 17.5psi up top ~16deg timing, 11.5afr
I put down 305/225 at the wheels at 17psi on 93 octane with a rising boost curve to save the transmission. He felt this was on the safe side and could probably squeeze another 20 out of it on pump if I wanted 10/10ths (I would rather be safe)
I am super happy with this! Best on his dyno from a local Miata was a built 1.8 w/gtx2863 at 290 on pump, and 260 from chrubo2860
And then on the way home just gently cruising and enjoying a running car, lost power to ECU - wouldn’t communicate with the computer, turn key and I couldn’t hear the fuel pump running. Unfortunately didn’t have any spare injector relays that are under the hood on me, so cashed in a free AAA tow back home and will chase that this week.
But honestly so thankful that I didn’t come home on a flatbed because of catastrophic failure, I can deal with a relay/fuse/possible short somewhere! Car felt great up until then on the way home! 225tq on a PLATEAU from 3k to redline is a really nice powerband
Will go back with an ethanol blend at some point, though he isn’t sure how much the DW300 will flow and would probably be my next limiting factor
honestly I am just THRILLED to be successfully driving the car (erm...sorta) after 9 months and tearing apart the whole car 😁
Congrats! Feels like you've had a great time line on getting this build going.
Have you re-wired your fuel pump relay? DW300 pulls way too many amps through the stock wiring, and will kill main relays (possibly melting wires) in short order.
Congrats! Feels like you've had a great time line on getting this build going.
Have you re-wired your fuel pump relay? DW300 pulls way too many amps through the stock wiring, and will kill main relays (possibly melting wires) in short order.
You know what, I didn't and I recall hearing something about that too... I will look into that, thank you!
Also, just because I was curious...I did a quick/rough BorgWarner MatchBot for about what I was running at the dyno today https://www.borgwarner.com/go/MS92KZ
and if you look at the Engine HP and TQ at the 7000 range it is 353/265, which if you take into account a 15% driveline loss would put it at 307/230 which is absolutely within the margin of error of what I put down today. Which just kind of tells me everything is working about as it should
When your car is running again, do a virtual dyno pull, I'm very interested in this. Do you know what the car weights?
I will definitely do that, and have a trucker weigh station pretty close by and will post picture of weight and VD pulls... I’m interested in this too! Some of the shops have dyno days around here too where pulls are really cheap and a couple of us who have been on ricks dyno want to go on one of the other local ones, and then at least we have a couple data points
So switched out the injector relay, 30a fuse, and 80a main relay — no change
Checked my grounds, wiggled wires with the key on... nothing
took apart MS to see if there was a fuse or anything visibly wrong, looks fine, there’s no fuse in there I could find - no power to it, none of the 4 lights are lighting up
Found “engine” 15a under dash, blown — AH HA! Put 20a I had on hand in...still nothing. This 20a didn’t blow, but nothing seemed to happen either. It blew for a reason...
Not sure what to do from here... pretty bummed to have the car tuned, but can’t actually drive it
03-25-2021, 08:07 PM
0
