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Old 04-02-2018, 09:59 PM   #41  
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I had the same gauge on my last turbo miata. it worked just fine, and EBC was easy to setup.
only thing i didnt like, is the display was impossible to see with the top down during daylight.
I got that gauge setup on Jet.com when they had like 15% off on first orders, came out a little over $300. good deal on boost controller and afr gauge.

why reinvent the wheel on the turbo, manifold and downpipe? get a tried T25 or T28 setup and enjoy having readily available parts.
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:38 AM   #42  
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Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo View Post
So I ordered a bunch more stuff, timing kit, calipers/pads, spark plugs, plug wires, radiator, clutch, flywheel and some other stuff... all added to the first post with links and prices.

Can I use MS2 to control boost? if so why aren't more people doing this? Heres some more stuff im looking at:

MS boost mod control kit:https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...ntrol-mod-kit/
solenoid:https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-solenoid-kit/
O2 sensor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Wide-Band-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-fits-PLX-AEM-UEGO-30-2001-4100-Autometer-2243/181553353279?hash=item2a456c523f:g:31kAAOSw7NNT-1ku&vxp=mtr
Oil catch can:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKCRH1R/?coliid=I2OADLI9Z6GHY1&colid=2O2KL6SD2X29Q&ref_=lv _ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 (why not?)
Air temp sensor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Delphi-Fast-Response-GM-Intake-Air-Temperature-Sensor-IAT-MAT-ACT-Kit/263120880631?hash=item3d433a03f7:g:eCwAAOSw~qNZgir X&vxp=mtr

what you think?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronson M View Post
You need to do a little searching, there are extensive threads on all your questions. In a sentence the boost control of the MS2 firmware sucks, MS3 is much better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by acedeuce802 View Post
MS2 boost control works fine in open loop, but closed loop sucks. Since you already have MS2, I would just run a MBC, or EBC in open loop (but they'll pretty much do the same thing without closed loop control).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronson M View Post
No......no.....and no. You're wondering off the path.

This is an. EBC and it costs less than $60
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-solenoid-kit/

This is a cheap WB that'll work just fine, I've used one. $125
https://www.14point7.com/products/sp...a-controller-2

I personally don't see the need for a guage, that's what tuning is for. You can setup the MS to shut the motor down if the AFR's get out of wack.

There are manifolds out there for the TD04, but it's a tiny little turd of a turbo. A T25 based turbo (2554 or 2560) off a Nissan can be had for less than 200$ all day long and there are a ton of cheap manifold and down pipes available.

Quote:
Originally Posted by borka View Post
I had the same gauge on my last turbo miata. it worked just fine, and EBC was easy to setup.
only thing i didnt like, is the display was impossible to see with the top down during daylight.
I got that gauge setup on Jet.com when they had like 15% off on first orders, came out a little over $300. good deal on boost controller and afr gauge.

why reinvent the wheel on the turbo, manifold and downpipe? get a tried T25 or T28 setup and enjoy having readily available parts.

I posted up the DIY solenoid kit and was told MS2 sucks with boost control, now I'm being told just to go with it... which is it? I guess it comes down to "is open loop control worth the extra expense over closed loop?" I didnt think choosing a boost controller would be this big of a deal in the grand scheme of things. So MS2 boost control or another EBC? (im not interested in manual at this point) Price is a factor but I'm ok with $300 for that all in one.... if its worth the open loop control.

I'm going to go with an electric cut out for my exhaust, so I'll need a custom down pipe anyways. as far as the td04. I dont want to exceed 200whp cause I dont really want to pay for the diff, axle, and driveshaft upgrade... so i might as well go for the fastest spool up i can find right? I've seen others hit 230-240 whp with td04 so i figured it should be fine for my goal. If the price of the mani comes out ridiculous I'll probably just go for a t25. we shall see I guess.

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Old 04-04-2018, 09:43 AM   #43  
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Why not just a manual boost controller. works fine for my EFR..
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:55 AM   #44  
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If you don't want MBC, then just get the ECB and run it in open loop. You'll at least have the hardware you need when you upgrade to MS3.

There's no reason not to go for fastest spool, regardless of power goals.

You can taper boost, but torque is what would kill the engine/drivetrain. So if you make a peak of 200 ft/lbs at say 4500 rpm (without limiting boost), there's no reason to taper boost beyond that, because that would be your failure point. If you have the fuel to support maintaining power to redline there's no reason to give up that power.
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:58 AM   #45  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
Why not just a manual boost controller. works fine for my EFR..
because that would be too simple, cheap and make the most sense >_<

Quote:
Originally Posted by acedeuce802 View Post
If you don't want MBC, then just get the ECB and run it in open loop. You'll at least have the hardware you need when you upgrade to MS3.

There's no reason not to go for fastest spool, regardless of power goals.

You can taper boost, but torque is what would kill the engine/drivetrain. So if you make a peak of 200 ft/lbs at say 4500 rpm (without limiting boost), there's no reason to taper boost beyond that, because that would be your failure point. If you have the fuel to support maintaining power to redline there's no reason to give up that power.
I see. I'm thinking 180 wtrq is the highest I'd want to push the stock diff (which might blow at 120 trq O_o)

I'm going to do more research on boost control... I'm trying not to bomb the forum with to many questions.
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:14 PM   #46  
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180 tq...making EBC useless IMO. just use a manual controller.
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:28 PM   #47  
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I know some people have mentioned places to cut costs, but wanted to reiterate:

You don't need any kind of boost control for a sub 200hp setup, if you want/need to add a little boost a $10 manual controller will handle it
BKR7E Plugs are great and $2 each
A $200 boost gauge is crazy, you really don't need one at all, if you want one any plain ole $20 mechanical gauge is fine
Stoptech street performance pads are awesome and less than $50, I downsized my last 350whp Miata to 1.6 brakes and they were entirely sufficient for the street, autox, drag racing
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Old 04-04-2018, 08:28 PM   #48  
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Ok ok ok... MBC it is. and yea thats the plugs I'm running. I have new EBC red stuff pads...
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:41 AM   #49  
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So I've found this for an intercooler: https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-...ler-small.html

they can be had for about $160 which is an awesome price... but the NA front opening is only about 4" tall. I'm actually having a hard time finding something that small.

EDIT - actually... it will leave some room on the sides. I think that will do. I just dont want the opening 100% taken up.
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:05 AM   #50  
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there is an entire thread dedicated to intercoolers and which one to buy.
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:51 PM   #51  
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well I found this:https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...tercool-83180/

i looked at all of the linked post, and a good bit of deezums thread and A LOT of aidans thread. I've got a long way to go
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Old 04-07-2018, 02:17 PM   #52  
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I am sure you probably follow other Miata based channels on Youtube, but I have some info in mine that may help you out. I focused heavy on keeping within a pretty small budget and it's proven to be pretty reliable the past 3 years on street and on track. Although I only do HPDE stuff, nothing like the S1 cars over in Race Prep.


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Old 04-11-2018, 09:45 PM   #53  
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I watched a few of your videos. You do good work! You have more money in tools then my whole build will probably cost lol. I liked the DIY spliter and the fender spacers... until you painted the mesh "gold" haha. My under hood will go a similar direction but I'm going daily driver with a splash of track inspired functionality. Soft top, AC, full interior, etc. I may ditch the power steering. I installed a new radiator and it BARELY fits as is. Not sure how I'm doing to do IC piping. definitely will have to be 2". maybe 2.25". With a kid on the way I'm not sure when/if I'll get to upgrade the wheels/tires and go LSD...
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:13 AM   #54  
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Ordered the wideband/controller, air temp sensor, and a manifold. Will update with links and prices later after work. Super stoked. Hopefully I can install the MS next week. Wanted to get it done this week but I've some issues with the timing belt change...
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:51 AM   #55  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borka View Post
Wrong turbo, too big for your goals, and External wastegate, you want internal wastegate turbo, or you will spend a fortune on making an EWG downpipe that plumbs into your exhaust.

If a 1.6L T25 tacotaco manifold is available, get that and a turbo from a Nissan sr20det 240sx s13 or s14. these are proven garrett turbos, they spool very well and will get you to about 220hp with a nice and responsive spool. as compared to your T3 which will be basically no power until like 4500 rpm, and then whaaammm. these can be gotten on the cheap from the drifterz on facebook, like $100. as they all upgrade them to larger turbos.

Intercooler too big.

Injectors, you want Flowforce 630cc, cost $300, and most popular and recommended injectors here.

i think the Nissan Turbo you mentioned is what Iím looking for. I have T3 now and I donít like how it spools. I want something that spools faster. Will my Manifold work with this or will I need to find another? Just curious to know what Iím up against in making this swap
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Old 04-16-2018, 09:51 AM   #56  
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Originally Posted by mx5newbie View Post



i think the Nissan Turbo you mentioned is what Iím looking for. I have T3 now and I donít like how it spools. I want something that spools faster. Will my Manifold work with this or will I need to find another? Just curious to know what Iím up against in making this swap
you need a t25 manifold to use a t25/t28 turbo.

with a t3 manifold small enough turbos that spool well are almost impossible to find
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:27 AM   #57  
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There's another build thread here where a guy with a 1.6 ebay T25 compares spool to my 1.6 ebay T3/4, and the spool is almost identical.

Here is the T3/4 on my 1.6L. Making 13psi by 3400 rpm. It still doesn't make a ton of power that low, but a different turbo is not going to change that.
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:29 AM   #58  
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:20 AM   #59  
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Originally Posted by Schroedinger View Post
There's another build thread here where a guy with a 1.6 ebay T25 compares spool to my 1.6 ebay T3/4, and the spool is almost identical.

Here is the T3/4 on my 1.6L. Making 13psi by 3400 rpm. It still doesn't make a ton of power that low, but a different turbo is not going to change that.
the question is what kind of T3 and T25 ebay turbos?
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:46 AM   #60  
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The kind that's made in a Chinese factory, probably with mix and match parts. My T3/T4 is from DNA Motoring, whoever that is. For all I know, the turbos themselves may be identical except for the inlet flange. I don't know how committed the Chinese manufacturers are to making their products exactly like the ones they're knocking off. I have no doubt that an actual Garrett T25 would spool faster than either of the churbos in discussion. However, my T3 is making 13psi of boost at 3400rpm, and that ain't bad. So I disagree with the comment that it's hard to find a T3 that spools well enough for a 1.6L. Yes, my car is laggy as hell below 3500 rpm, but I don't think it has anything at all to do with manifold pressure. I have plenty, and the car is still laggy.
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