LSx coil thread
Thanks Aidan, I agree with you. For reference, I've been watching this video:
; reading this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-thread-82744/ ; and this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptroni...1/#post1005789
Are there any other or better references that I could use that you may be aware of?
Are there any other or better references that I could use that you may be aware of?
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:flame suit on:
Hey ya'll just wanted to offer an update. The NAPA ECHLIN IC413 coils are made in Poland. But that doesn't matter because my misfire issues where from hamfisting my plug wires. They are tender at the 90° and where breaking/broken apart.
Escalade wires work well in a bind, haven't had a misfire issue since.
My next issue is possibly fuel and airflow related. But i'll take that offline in another thread.
Moral of the story:
Check your wires
And still, just get GM Take off's or OEM Delphi over other.
Hey ya'll just wanted to offer an update. The NAPA ECHLIN IC413 coils are made in Poland. But that doesn't matter because my misfire issues where from hamfisting my plug wires. They are tender at the 90° and where breaking/broken apart.
Escalade wires work well in a bind, haven't had a misfire issue since.
My next issue is possibly fuel and airflow related. But i'll take that offline in another thread.
Moral of the story:
Check your wires
And still, just get GM Take off's or OEM Delphi over other.
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Buy these ends from Summit and be done with your troubles. I used them on stock Miata wires to go to my truck coils.
I use the stock wires but used the Taylor ends from Summit Racing on the coil side and shortened the high tension leads to match my needs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-46069
I use the stock wires but used the Taylor ends from Summit Racing on the coil side and shortened the high tension leads to match my needs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-46069
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
That's what we had. But the 90* ends that magnecore suggested broke for both payam and I. You need to have a gentle touch with them. Which is why we are working on replacements.
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Quick question in regards to wiring.
OEM has a 12v and ground going to each coil. Do I wire both 12v (black/white) wires to the pink wire and both ground (black) wires to the brown wire. Or is only one 12v and ground source sufficient for all coils.
OEM has a 12v and ground going to each coil. Do I wire both 12v (black/white) wires to the pink wire and both ground (black) wires to the brown wire. Or is only one 12v and ground source sufficient for all coils.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 99
Total Cats: 17
Are you sure the power wires are thick enough???
Are the "Black/white" factory power wires a large enough gauge to supply current for the D585 truck coils? It seems awfully small for the whack these coils are supposed to give out. I just can't imagine a GM truck having wire that small driving 4 of its coils in its factory loom. Has anyone ever wondered about this?
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 449
Total Cats: 28
From: Boston,Mass
4.5ms might be too much depending on what your battery correction table looks like.
Raw data straight from a 5.3 truck ECM (6.0 data is extremely similar):
I punched that all into Excel and produced the same data as a percentage of dwell at 14v, then distilled that a little further to give me two 2D curves to punch into the MS3.
Dwell vs. RPM:
Dwell vs. Battery voltage:
Without a 3D table like the GM ECU has, you're stuck with two linear 2D curves. The battery curves are correct for everything above ~5000rpm and a little low below that, but since these coils discharge with excessive dwell at high RPM, I felt it was better to stay on the conservative side everywhere. The tables above will never produce a dwell figure that's higher than the OEM table, which is what I wanted.
I have cranking dwell set at 4.5ms and the car cold-started in my 68*F shop, but YMMV.
Raw data straight from a 5.3 truck ECM (6.0 data is extremely similar):
I punched that all into Excel and produced the same data as a percentage of dwell at 14v, then distilled that a little further to give me two 2D curves to punch into the MS3.
Dwell vs. RPM:
Dwell vs. Battery voltage:
Without a 3D table like the GM ECU has, you're stuck with two linear 2D curves. The battery curves are correct for everything above ~5000rpm and a little low below that, but since these coils discharge with excessive dwell at high RPM, I felt it was better to stay on the conservative side everywhere. The tables above will never produce a dwell figure that's higher than the OEM table, which is what I wanted.
I have cranking dwell set at 4.5ms and the car cold-started in my 68*F shop, but YMMV.
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Hey folks, I'm building a harness for my D585 coils and I wanted to pickup some capacitors. Last time I built a harness I picked up parts from my local RadioShack but as we know they're not really around anymore. Anyone have a suggested vendor for stuff like that?
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All-round "Good Guy"
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,036
Total Cats: 266
From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
I though most people were omitting the capacitors these days?
I tend to buy electronic components online these days from Element14 or RS Components but due to S&H costs prefer to wait until I've got a few things I need - paying more for S&H than the goods themselves just doesn't seem right. I usually end up ordering 10x what I actually need too (eg, rather than 1 trim-pot, I get 10 since they're cheap enough)
I tend to buy electronic components online these days from Element14 or RS Components but due to S&H costs prefer to wait until I've got a few things I need - paying more for S&H than the goods themselves just doesn't seem right. I usually end up ordering 10x what I actually need too (eg, rather than 1 trim-pot, I get 10 since they're cheap enough)
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Yeah, hard to not buy in bulk for components like those with the cost of the shipping. If that's the case I will run without the caps, I know it was suggested pretty heavily when I built my COP harness but they're kind of in the way so not adding them in works for me.
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,462
Total Cats: 389
From: Bainbridge Island, WA
We didn't add capacitors into the FlowForce PNP harness. It's not needed.
__________________
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Newb
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 23
Total Cats: 8
D585 coils 1995 miata and ms3pro pnp
Here is a diagram I made for my wiring harness. May help someone. I will make my own build thread before too long. but for now. This is for D585 coils using GM pigtails from junkyard pull, 1994-1995 MX5 MS3Pro pnp
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 197
Total Cats: 19
From: Eindhoven, The netherlands
Is anyone running MSD replacements for de LS coils? Like the MSD streetfire ones. I need nee coils for my turbo build. About 300-350hp. Those are easier to get over here in the netherlands then OEM ones i think
Turned out my LS coils i have now are fake.
Turned out my LS coils i have now are fake.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 298
Total Cats: 44
Ok, oldish thread but figures it's best to keep all this stuff together rather than have 500 threads clogging up the forum.
Usual thing, will be needing coils soon, etc, etc.
Having read the thread front to back it's pretty clear that most people are using secondhand GM coils, which makes sense if they're readily available.
But have people had much experience with non-GM ones from reputable companies? (specifically NGK U5132)
I mean, I'd assume that the NGK ones would at least meet OEM specs (since they're an OEM supplier, granted not for GM), but yeah, assuming is one thing, experience is another altogether.
I'd happily just grab used GM ones, but it's damn hard to find them here since they were only really fitted to the VE SS Commodore and higher models. None of which ever really end up in the wrecking yards here (plenty of the V6 pov-packs, but very few V8)
Cheers.
Usual thing, will be needing coils soon, etc, etc.
Having read the thread front to back it's pretty clear that most people are using secondhand GM coils, which makes sense if they're readily available.
But have people had much experience with non-GM ones from reputable companies? (specifically NGK U5132)
I mean, I'd assume that the NGK ones would at least meet OEM specs (since they're an OEM supplier, granted not for GM), but yeah, assuming is one thing, experience is another altogether.
I'd happily just grab used GM ones, but it's damn hard to find them here since they were only really fitted to the VE SS Commodore and higher models. None of which ever really end up in the wrecking yards here (plenty of the V6 pov-packs, but very few V8)
Cheers.
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