4.5ms might be too much depending on what your battery correction table looks like.

Raw data straight from a 5.3 truck ECM (6.0 data is extremely similar):



I punched that all into Excel and produced the same data as a percentage of dwell at 14v, then distilled that a little further to give me two 2D curves to punch into the MS3.

Dwell vs. RPM:



Dwell vs. Battery voltage:



Without a 3D table like the GM ECU has, you're stuck with two linear 2D curves. The battery curves are correct for everything above ~5000rpm and a little low below that, but since these coils discharge with excessive dwell at high RPM, I felt it was better to stay on the conservative side everywhere. The tables above will never produce a dwell figure that's higher than the OEM table, which is what I wanted.

I have cranking dwell set at 4.5ms and the car cold-started in my 68*F shop, but YMMV.

 

This is probably the most helpful post in this thread. Is there a dwell you would recommend for us who are stuck in the stone age with an ms2 without a dwell table? Is 4ms too much?

 

This may be why my coils start to act up after I stay on the rev limiter for a good bit in autocross. The ignition starts to break up really badly and it takes a good 3 or 4 seconds before the car responds and revs properly. I think I have my dwell at 4.5ms.

 

I would try 3.5ms. That will be too low through the midrange by ~0.5ms, but I'd rather be low by 0.5ms than high by 0.5ms.

 

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS3ba...rdware-1.4.pdf section 5.3.2 "Logic Coils" recommends this value too:

"A dwell figure of 3.5ms is advised for LS2 coils. (was 4.5)"

"A dwell figure of 3.5ms is advised for truck coils."

 

Here's another (my) version of the top Mount bracket for the d514a's. I spaced thr cois so that you can reach the #4 plug without removing the coils.

 

Nice brackets

 

Attached is Savingtons dwell table in an easy to import format.

What is everyone running for spark duration.

 

Those brackets are truly a work of art!.

If you made them by hand I tip my hat to you - I did mine by hand and they took ages.
Yours look too perfect and complex to make by hand though.

Are you grounding the coils on the top rear bracket bolt?

Would be better/tidier to use an out-of-sight bolt at the rear that connects to the engine block - there's plenty to choose from.

Tip: You might want to number your harness plugs and their corresponding CNP so you don't mis-connect them in future, based on your ignition leads between the plugs and CNPs, the CNPs aren't mounted in sequential order.

 

Are these off the shelf wires or did you make them yourself?

 

@Vincentmiata, I didn't think the IL Motorsport reroute worked on 1.8L

 

It does fit but the reroute piece in het back is touching the coolant hose that goes from the back to the oil cooler. So we decided to bring it out for the 1.6 only.

I need to check the CAD drawings if i can shave a few mm of. Ive already seen the new 1.8 prototype. So i can use the new 1.8 piece if shaving doesnt work

I only designed the original piece and i tought it should fit the 1.8 also. But somehow something went wrong.

 

We'll, it's extremely clever and I wish it was compatible because that'd make servicing and hose routing quite simple! Do you know if anyone sells the components individually, say the silicone hose and holder to the intake manifold?

 

Since the inception of this thread there have been a couple of who have come out with some products to help successfully integrate these LSx coils onto the miata chassis.

Sean over at SadFab's kit: http://sadfab.com/coilmounts.html

My Hawley Performance kit: https://squareup.com/store/hawleyper...il-bracket-kit

Thanks for all those that have helped contribute information to this thread.

 

You can certainly tell the type of folks who care more about helping the community than lining their pockets with $$. Especially when you link to others products as well as your own vs just your own stuff.

 

Every part in the reroute kit is custom made by IL, So no one else is selling these parts.

And they dont sell the parts seperate.

 

Hey guys, the tuner that has my car has hit a wall with spark blowout. I'm using the information @Savington posted and he's narrowed it down to spark.

He's reduced the boost a smidgen and it works fine, then he reduced the dwell by 0.1 and its on the cusp of blowout. He's unsure if he wants to push the final row in the dwell table up because he's also read on other forums that self ignition can occur as low as 4ms. He stating that because the coils have been superceded and now it's in the hands of other manufacturers (mine are Napa coils) that he can't confirm that these will autoignite at 5ms as reported with stock GM.

Is there still headroomto increase dwell at the upper rpm by 0.1-0.2? Would the battery dwell correction then need to be decreased at lower voltage? I've always seemed to run smaller gap even with Toyota COPS than what everyone reports but right now the plugs are taken down to. 020

More dwell? New coils? Blow motor?

 

OEM coils. No way would I chance overdwelling a D585 coil beyond the OEM dwell settings.

If you aren't on iridium plugs, that will give you some headroom right now.

 

If you have an oscilloscope and a shunt resistor you can test the coils to see how far they'll go.

--Ian

 

I don't have oscope sadly.

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I'm not on iridiums, just the regular old bkr7e.