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Old 02-06-2008, 02:04 PM   #1
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Default Manifold to turbo bolts coming loose?? WTF?

So i developed a small exhaust leak last week and found it to be the 2 bolts on the right, top and bottom (if facing the turbo/mani) were loose. No problem, just fight with the FM heat shield like there was no tomorrow and tighten. Then fight with the FM heat shield again to get it back on. Done.

Well i just came back from lunch and opened the hood to hear the same leak AGAIN! Is there a way to combat this? Safety wire? Suggestions?
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:06 PM   #2
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Call up FM and order up some stover nuts and nord-lock washers.This combo with never come loose.

If you wanna go extreme you could go with stage8 fasteners.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:07 PM   #3
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Nordlock washers. I was able to get mine by mailing the Nordlock directly and asking for a sample. Or you can buy them from FM.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Nordlock washers. I was able to get mine by mailing the Nordlock directly and asking for a sample.
I think I'm gonna try that next time I need some.

Thanks for the tip Jay.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:23 PM   #5
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yah... on i'll call FM and hope they send me the right stuff. Who knows, maybe they'll goof my order and send me a turbo kit instead lol.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:26 PM   #6
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:30 PM   #7
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Don't buy that **** from FM. They charge some retarded amount of money. Get them at Fastenal: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...e-results&cd=1
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:31 PM   #8
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I call bullshit on the FM washers. I've had crazy problems with fasteners on mine rattling loose. On my previous setup I was rocking FM washers (thanks SamNavy) with the threaded nuts. They held for longer then the regular nuts and locking washers, but last week I realized one was missing and had managed to backthread off completely! I eventually will need to move to the wire locking setup or just start nitching my threads lol.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:42 PM   #9
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They worked well on my Greddy kit, with 3/8" exhaust manifold studs.
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Don't buy that **** from FM. They charge some retarded amount of money. Get them at Fastenal: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...e-results&cd=1
How much are they from Fastenal?
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Old 02-06-2008, 02:53 PM   #11
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If these are the same, they're pretty inexpensive

McMaster-Carr Part No. 93795A240
Class 8 Zinc-Plated Steel Conical-Top Locknut Hex, M10 Screw Sz, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Width, 10mm H
In stock at $4.52 per Pack
This product is sold in Packs of 25
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:22 PM   #12
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weird. I use the 80,000 mile stock exhaust nuts with no problems.
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Old 02-06-2008, 03:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sv650_ck View Post
If these are the same, they're pretty inexpensive

McMaster-Carr Part No. 93795A240
Class 8 Zinc-Plated Steel Conical-Top Locknut Hex, M10 Screw Sz, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Width, 10mm H
In stock at $4.52 per Pack
This product is sold in Packs of 25
That be the nut, not the washer.

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Old 02-06-2008, 04:05 PM   #14
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i just use plain ole lock washers
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Old 02-06-2008, 04:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sv650_ck View Post
If these are the same, they're pretty inexpensive

McMaster-Carr Part No. 93795A240
Class 8 Zinc-Plated Steel Conical-Top Locknut Hex, M10 Screw Sz, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Width, 10mm H
In stock at $4.52 per Pack
This product is sold in Packs of 25
Don't most 10mm nuts/bolts have 14mm heads? Is it tough to tighten those Mcmaster nuts since the head is 17mm? On my GTX I had to grind down a closed-end wrench to get to one of the turbo nuts.

Anyone tried SS nuts like Corky suggests?
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Old 02-06-2008, 05:21 PM   #16
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Safety wire. There's a reason high-reliability systems use it (look at any airplane or helicopter).

I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.

Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.

Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.

Barry
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:10 PM   #17
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^I'll buy that, nice first post.

This is another good thread I started... check out Post#32. I had enough leftover that I even mailed a couple sets out to dudes for free after that.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=nordlock
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Old 02-06-2008, 07:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barryb View Post
Safety wire. There's a reason high-reliability systems use it (look at any airplane or helicopter).

I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.

Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.

Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.

Barry
Oh, ah, so the stud and the nut are wired?

Wow that sounds like a good idea. I really loved my nord locks, for a while... In theory they would hold the stud in too. :-) But after a couple uses they don't always hold - there are two kinds and I think I have the cheap ones. Fm sells the "good ones" for a whole lot more, I doubt it's justified, but I will admit mine are worn a bit flat.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:21 PM   #19
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8mm studs dont even stay in the manifold, and if they don't back out they crack.

Get 10mm studs and be done.
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Old 02-06-2008, 09:52 PM   #20
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If I ran the universe there woudln't be studs, there would be nuts and bolts. Those always work fine, and gives you a lot of options for locking
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