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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-06-2008, 11:05 PM   #21
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To safety wire the studs/nuts do you have to drill a hole threw both? Pictures please.
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:14 PM   #22
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Did you try tack welding???
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
To safety wire the studs/nuts do you have to drill a hole threw both? Pictures please.




You don't need to drill anything, they make a kit that uses washers you fold up and has a tab you run the wire through. Check out this thread post 6 for the kit.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16683
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:30 PM   #24
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Mine started to back off once when I had a POS gasket. I removed the gasket since both flanges were flat and torqued the nuts ~60ftlbs and they haven't moved since. I think the gasket was the problem.
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:31 PM   #25
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uhh... i skipped ahead because im trying to take a 30 second study break.... but have you tried "Thread Locker" yet?
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:32 PM   #26
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mine stay put with rust
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:42 PM   #27
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uhh... i skipped ahead because im trying to take a 30 second study break.... but have you tried "Thread Locker" yet?
Thread locker will burn off.
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Old 02-06-2008, 11:48 PM   #28
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I had nothing but trouble with the Nord-locks and studs. I put some bolts in it with the Nord-locks, hasn't budged. I would try ditching the studs.
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Old 02-07-2008, 06:02 AM   #29
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Nordlocks and crimped nuts worked perfect for me. They were just so DAMNED hard to get off. The GT28 and FM manifold are impossible to deal with, so it's a trade off between nuts staying on and nuts being removable. A bolt just won't fit. Washers and tall nuts don't really fit. The whole thing sucks ***, honestly.

Your link went back to this same thread?

Anyway, if you only hold the nut, it seems weird the stud couldn't come out, but I guess it just wouldn't come out easy.
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Old 02-07-2008, 09:40 AM   #30
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Well, it seems that we have all tried various things and have different conclusions lol

Well, im going to try some lock washers first and see what happens. If that does not work, then it'll be the nord-locks.


After tightening down the bolts the other day and installing the heat shield, i have noticed a heck of a vibration coming from somewhere at part throttle.... might be the heat shield, but its driving me up the walls :( There is quite the design flaw with the FM heat shield and the rear mounting point (also hold the ground strap) in that it LOVES to get it on with the heater hose when trying to lift it up. I wonder if FM likes re-design submissions lol.
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Old 02-07-2008, 11:51 AM   #31
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I had locks washers and studs and lost two nuts and a stud this past summer.
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:01 PM   #32
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Regular lock washers will not retain their spring wth the heat. After only a couple 1000 km mine were basically flat washers.
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:12 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Regular lock washers will not retain their spring wth the heat. After only a couple 1000 km mine were basically flat washers.
Lol I can attest to that ****. Another thing that was funny was the heat fused my nordlock washers to my nuts.
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:17 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Your link went back to this same thread?



Yea, did you see post 6?
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Old 02-07-2008, 02:17 PM   #35
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What's with the weird tool in the kit? It sure does seem worth it though.
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Old 02-07-2008, 03:40 PM   #36
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nm
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Old 02-07-2008, 03:41 PM   #37
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It's used to twist the wire together to tie it off...like a twist-tie.
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