Manifold Woes
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From: Orlando, Florida
I am getting ready to install my EFR6258. I have decided to keep the AC and PS. It is daily driver with occasional Track and AX.
I had the manifold fabricated by a local race shop (well known among local racers and they do a lot of RX7). The ram style manifold has two sharp bends in the runner tubes leading to the collector. It can be clearly seen in the attached pictures. The fabricator tells me that it is acceptable and will not affect performance.
What do you gents think?
PS: I didn't want to wait the six weeks quoted by ARTech. Otherwise Abe would have been the choice.
I had the manifold fabricated by a local race shop (well known among local racers and they do a lot of RX7). The ram style manifold has two sharp bends in the runner tubes leading to the collector. It can be clearly seen in the attached pictures. The fabricator tells me that it is acceptable and will not affect performance.
What do you gents think?
PS: I didn't want to wait the six weeks quoted by ARTech. Otherwise Abe would have been the choice.
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
lazy and shitty imo. no reason they couldn't get the proper tight radius elbows to make that better. even pie cutting those would have been better, again, imo.
in practice it probably wont hurt much, but why wouldn't they just do it right to begin with when everything else about that mani looks so nice.
edit- also just noticed the round pipe wasn't crushed or blended to the oval port shape on the head flange. they fully welded the inside which is cool, but it looks like they are relying on the weld to blend from round to oval. I would have asked for my money back.
in practice it probably wont hurt much, but why wouldn't they just do it right to begin with when everything else about that mani looks so nice.
edit- also just noticed the round pipe wasn't crushed or blended to the oval port shape on the head flange. they fully welded the inside which is cool, but it looks like they are relying on the weld to blend from round to oval. I would have asked for my money back.
lazy and shitty imo. no reason they couldn't get the proper tight radius elbows to make that better. even pie cutting those would have been better, again, imo.
in practice it probably wont hurt much, but why wouldn't they just do it right to begin with when everything else about that mani looks so nice.
edit- also just noticed the round pipe wasn't crushed or blended to the oval port shape on the head flange. they fully welded the inside which is cool, but it looks like they are relying on the weld to blend from round to oval. I would have asked for my money back.
in practice it probably wont hurt much, but why wouldn't they just do it right to begin with when everything else about that mani looks so nice.
edit- also just noticed the round pipe wasn't crushed or blended to the oval port shape on the head flange. they fully welded the inside which is cool, but it looks like they are relying on the weld to blend from round to oval. I would have asked for my money back.
They clearly have the capabilities to do good work, but were just looking to make the buck from you and sending you on your way..... Curious, what did this manifold cost you? I would take a die grinder and smooth out the transitions at the head flange.
There are pictures of my manifold in my build thread, it mounts the EFR turbo and also keeps the PC and AC.
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From: Orlando, Florida
Pretty much all this!
They clearly have the capabilities to do good work, but were just looking to make the buck from you and sending you on your way..... Curious, what did this manifold cost you? I would take a die grinder and smooth out the transitions at the head flange.
There are pictures of my manifold in my build thread, it mounts the EFR turbo and also keeps the PC and AC.
They clearly have the capabilities to do good work, but were just looking to make the buck from you and sending you on your way..... Curious, what did this manifold cost you? I would take a die grinder and smooth out the transitions at the head flange.
There are pictures of my manifold in my build thread, it mounts the EFR turbo and also keeps the PC and AC.
It was about $900.00. Wouldn't grinding the transitions make the part of the runner tube thinner and more prone to cracks?
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lake Forest, CA
That's almost as bad at Tuning Done Wrong.
Sorry to see it sir. Just as others said, it should work fine but just clearly is not top notch work.
Sorry to see it sir. Just as others said, it should work fine but just clearly is not top notch work.
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From: Orlando, Florida
If you look at these pictures, they can do quality work.
$900 for paying someone to do that, seems fair. If it was $1200 I would have expected none of the pinched bends and crappy transitions. Dont worry, in less than a season its going to crack at the nasty bend in picture 4 and they'll have to fix it anyways.
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
At first i was thinking, aww you guys are harsh and haters. But 900 bucks. Holy hell man... I'm not sure i'd accept that for that much money. Who ever did it seems like they have the tools to do it right. But looking at that, it seems they didn't take their time.
I wouldn't worry about that sharp bend though, really. It's only going to affect it so very little, you'll never see a difference.
I wouldn't worry about that sharp bend though, really. It's only going to affect it so very little, you'll never see a difference.
For what it's worth, you'll get ovaled tubes from Abe at the head flange, and anywhere the welds come close to the stud holes is ground out with a counter bore tool to make enough room for the flanged exhaust nuts. No sharp bends, great looking welds, a gorgeous 3" separated gas downpipe with a flex section. All for $750.
I seriously hope you got a damn good looking downpipe for that price. I'm not sure I'd worry about the sharp bends too much, but for $900 I'd really expect a 1/2", laser cut 3D flange with ovaled tubes and blended welds. Yours looks like a shitty 3/8" burnt unit.
I seriously hope you got a damn good looking downpipe for that price. I'm not sure I'd worry about the sharp bends too much, but for $900 I'd really expect a 1/2", laser cut 3D flange with ovaled tubes and blended welds. Yours looks like a shitty 3/8" burnt unit.
Super, super shoddy work. You never grind bends at an angle like that. I wouldn't have paid for it.
e: "Fixing" those bends correctly will require him to rebuild much of the manifold. I hope you paid by CC, because it's time to drop it off at his shop and do a chargeback.
e: "Fixing" those bends correctly will require him to rebuild much of the manifold. I hope you paid by CC, because it's time to drop it off at his shop and do a chargeback.
no affiliation with the manifold above, but...
-3d flanges are not lazer cut.
-there is nothing wrong with a flame cut flange (assuming it isnt warped)
-1/2" thick flange is REALLY thick- 3/8" is a standard for a reason. i would bet your manifold bolts would need to be replaced to be long enough for a 1/2" flange
$750 is a good price for a manifold/downpipe combo, is that a stainless manifold or mild steel?
Super, super shoddy work. You never grind bends at an angle like that. I wouldn't have paid for it.
e: "Fixing" those bends correctly will require him to rebuild much of the manifold. I hope you paid by CC, because it's time to drop it off at his shop and do a chargeback.
e: "Fixing" those bends correctly will require him to rebuild much of the manifold. I hope you paid by CC, because it's time to drop it off at his shop and do a chargeback.
-3d flanges are not lazer cut.
-there is nothing wrong with a flame cut flange (assuming it isnt warped)
-1/2" thick flange is REALLY thick- 3/8" is a standard for a reason. i would bet your manifold bolts would need to be replaced to be long enough for a 1/2" flange
$750 is a good price for a manifold/downpipe combo, is that a stainless manifold or mild steel?
-there is nothing wrong with a flame cut flange (assuming it isnt warped)
-1/2" thick flange is REALLY thick- 3/8" is a standard for a reason. i would bet your manifold bolts would need to be replaced to be long enough for a 1/2" flange
$750 is a good price for a manifold/downpipe combo, is that a stainless manifold or mild steel?
My mistake about the laser cut flanges. I sorta meant laser cut as in prettier edges, or a 3D flange, which from what I've seen would be milled.
And no, nothing wrong with a flame cut flange, but as I said, for $900 it looks shitty.
My 3/8" warps like crazy. Along with a bunch of others I've heard of. By the time you sand it flat once or twice, it just warps that much easier. I could of sworn I've seen a few 1/2" manifolds floating around.
DP was mostly SS, I think the weld els he used were mild, but I did only get a log. Not as flowing as OP's, but still a big price difference.
My mistake about the laser cut flanges. I sorta meant laser cut as in prettier edges, or a 3D flange, which from what I've seen would be milled.
And no, nothing wrong with a flame cut flange, but as I said, for $900 it looks shitty.
My 3/8" warps like crazy. Along with a bunch of others I've heard of. By the time you sand it flat once or twice, it just warps that much easier. I could of sworn I've seen a few 1/2" manifolds floating around.
My mistake about the laser cut flanges. I sorta meant laser cut as in prettier edges, or a 3D flange, which from what I've seen would be milled.
And no, nothing wrong with a flame cut flange, but as I said, for $900 it looks shitty.
My 3/8" warps like crazy. Along with a bunch of others I've heard of. By the time you sand it flat once or twice, it just warps that much easier. I could of sworn I've seen a few 1/2" manifolds floating around.
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
I welded few 3/8's flanges just fine without any warping.
Just need to clamp it down and weld it properly. It's a non issue unless your process is wrong. And no way it should warp after it's all welded. Heavy track use may require relief cuts, or just heat treating the thing. Again, it should be a non issue.
Just need to clamp it down and weld it properly. It's a non issue unless your process is wrong. And no way it should warp after it's all welded. Heavy track use may require relief cuts, or just heat treating the thing. Again, it should be a non issue.








