shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Dont sand the flange without getting it really really close first.

Take a peice of rod or somethign with thickness and put it in the high spot that you would sand out and use some bolts to pull it down (think of it as warping against the warp). you should be able to flatten the flange pretty good by pulling it back against itself. then sand lightly just to clean it up.


You really shouldnt have to do it though if the flange is welded on a head or on a bolted fixture (properly)

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I know that this tread is going of track but my eperiense is that the flanges tend to warp mainly when i do a poor job at fitting the bends, if i leave some gaps when tacking the manifold together i always end up warping the flange so i do two things first try to have tight joints and seccond is not to weld the runners to the flange until last, if i see a warped flange i simply cut the tacks, sand the runners on a long belt sander untill they are all ligned up (sometimes i have to bend one a little) and then weld the falnge on, and that takes care of the problem without sanding or machining the flange.

nitrodann

That.

Dann

wittyworks

iTrader: (6)

In my experience all of the stainless flanges I have used have warped to the point that they needed to be belt sanded. I only use 1/2 inch flanges, and no you do not need to replace the head studs for 1/2 inch flanges.

The bend in picture 4 is horrible, I wouldn't be able to give that to a customer.

orlmiata

iTrader: (1)

What size pipe are your manifolds? 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 in?

wittyworks

iTrader: (6)

1.5"

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

Depends on the customers goals.



I change the size based on head port size, spool and power goals.

orlmiata

iTrader: (1)

I went back to the shop and he is unwilling to budge saying there is nothing wrong with it and that he has built enough turbo manifolds and that I should trust his word. He was explaining to me that NASCAR uses manifold runners @90 degree angles (not sure if this is correct). I tried explaining to him the the bend is @45 degrees on my manifold but to no avail. I have already paid in cash so I really have no recourse.
I will caulk it off to learning experience. Moving on, should I have it fixed by someone else, or put it on the car as is and drive it until it cracks then have it fixed the right way? Who can I send it to have it fixed the right way?

PS. While I was at the shop he was working on these two beasts.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Dude. Put it on your car. It's fine...

When it cracks, bring it back to him and make HIM fix it, properly, or demand money back. If he still doesn't budge, well, the power of social media is a nice thing.


Edit* that viper looks like a bit of a hackjob. Can't even tell what's going on there other than unfinished bullshit.

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

Agree with the previous post, don't sweat it and go enjoy your car, deal with it if and when it breaks.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I think that viper looks like a salvage title special, but why chop up a good car.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Nascar mandates pushrod engines to so I guess we are all wrong

05pearl

iTrader: (4)

^This; now that you've left and can't kick him in the nuts.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I agree.

That is 1.5" shedule pipe anyways.... so it has way more than the cross sectional area than you need unless your pushing massive massive horsepower on a 35R