DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Meet the Ogre....EFR6758 purpose built rase car.

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Old 04-03-2017, 10:37 AM
  #21  
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Well that's a pretty important thing to leave out lol

Which makes his plot even more impressive

And probably why it nosedives up top like that
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Old 04-03-2017, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
I can picture colipto salivating over this thread.



How much increase would you expect with a squaretop here? Or would that be a silly option instead of just going for the modified honda intake?
Originally Posted by k24madness
Quite impressive overall power and power curve. It makes me wonder what's possible with similar turbo, VVT and intake manifold.

Kitty for you!
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
VVT and a squaretop for the best of both worlds?
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
You'd lose the msm intake cam then, but I think the VVT's gains are greater. I see what you're asking though re:using the squaretop to get upper end gains and using the vvt to prop up the midrange.
Originally Posted by boileralum
he has to run a 46MM restrictor on the inlet side of the turbo, which is why more boost didn't do much for him.
I don't want to say I told you so but...
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I don't want to say I told you so but...
...and you guys were worried about a 2.5" inlet being too small.

--Ian
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Old 04-03-2017, 11:48 AM
  #24  
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I was gonna post that in his thread
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:34 PM
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lololol that dyno chart is with an inlet restrictor? Holy lol
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Old 04-03-2017, 01:47 PM
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<3 <3 <3

With those numbers, I feel as though my car is lacking. Time to get that knock sensor working and revisit the dyno.
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Old 04-03-2017, 02:03 PM
  #27  
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e85 is the secret ingredient here
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Old 04-03-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I don't want to say I told you so but...
Shaddap ya meaniepants!

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Old 04-05-2017, 05:50 AM
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Thanks Rich!

The car is built to the FP rule set so I do have some limitations.
  • 46mm restrictor
  • block and head that came in the car stock
  • 10in wide wheels (I can go wider but there's 100lb penalty for anything wider than 10in.)
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by codrus
Wow, 11:1 and 20+ psi. E85 is magic stuff. Are you willing to share anything about how much timing you're running? Is it a Megasquirt?

--Ian
It's running a Haltech Elite 1500. Timing is 15deg up top, but I don't know how that equates to Megasquirt timing.
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:48 PM
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It's most likely the same.
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fourwhls
It's running a Haltech Elite 1500. Timing is 15deg up top, but I don't know how that equates to Megasquirt timing.
MS timing = actual timing if you set it up right. I dont know enough about haltec to say the same.
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Old 03-24-2019, 11:24 AM
  #33  
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Damn, I've been a slack *** and haven't updated this thread in a long time. I did quite a bit of work over the winter to make it a little faster and also look better.

Appearance Update:

I bought an overfender kit from CarbonMiata.com. I was not a huge fan of their front bumper, so I chose to build my own front connection pieces to tie the flares to a stock bumper instead. This was both a great learning experience and a failure. I finally gave in and ordered the front bumper and connection pieces from CarbonMiata.

The plugs I made to tie the flares into the stock bumper turned out pretty well. It was a lot of work and took several attempts to get it right, but I was pretty happy with the final product. The problem that made me pull the plug was when I started the fiberglass process. I put the gel coat over the plug and it ate right through the primer and into the foam of the plug. I didn't think the type of primer was that big of a factor, but indeed it was.

I then hit the easy button and ordered the bumper/connection pieces.

I will say, the fit and finish of the CarbonMiata kit was the best I've ever worked with. I've installed at least a half-dozen flares on various cars, and this was the best fitting kit I've ever worked with. I only had to massage one part to make it fit to my liking, the rest bolted on and mated up perfectly.








After the kit was completely installed, I pulled it back off and started another process I've never done before, painting a car. This time I read the instructions thoroughly and made sure I used products that were compatible with each other. I ended up shooting it with a single stage paint over top of an epoxy primer. The paint and primer was PPG shop line and was very reasonable. It cost a little over $400 in materials. I used a Harbor Freight purple HVLP gun and it worked well. At $13 each, I bought 3 and just threw them away instead of cleaning after each use. I chose Viper Green which is a Porsche color that I originally saw on a GT3 RS. It's definitely not a show car, but it turned out pretty well.

Will I ever do this again?....maybe, but definitely not in my garage. I'm going to be cleaning up green overspray for the next 2 years.




















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Old 03-24-2019, 11:25 AM
  #34  
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Suspension / Tire-Wheel Update:

I decided to swap out the delrin bushings for spherical bearings. I created designs in CAD and sent the drawings out for quote. The prices weren't bad, but it ended up being about the same price for the Keisler Automation bearing. These were already proven and he had them in stock. I pulled my arms and sent them down to TN and in less than a week, I had them back in my hands with sphericals installed.







Once I got the suspension installed again, I looked at the front sway bar and was really not happy with the stiction of it compared to the control arms. I'm using a hollow Racing Beat bar with the poly bushings that comes with them. Being the stubborn engineer that I am, I wanted something better and decided to design a set of custom bushings for this bar. I opted to use a polymer that is basically an oil impregnated delrin. It should provide the freed up movement that I want, and being oil impregnated, it shouldn't require much, if any, maintenance. I can't really give any feedback one these yet because they have only been on the car for a day.









Last year we ran 275 A7s on 15x10s, this year we are giving the 295s a shot. I opted to put them on 15x11s even though the 15x12s are likely the better option. The 11s require an additional 50lbs of ballast, going with the 12s will be another 50lbs pushing me over the 200lb of ballast mark.

On the left is 275s on 10s, right is the new 295s on 11s.



Stacked next to each other.


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Old 03-30-2019, 09:13 PM
  #35  
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I think you need a gendron bar to go with those spherical arms now. Its really crazy how going to real bearings on the sway bar increases front grip even with the same stiffness of bar.
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:23 AM
  #36  
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You make a lot quicker progress than I do...
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:59 AM
  #37  
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I've driven it. It's a HOOT.

Looks as good as it runs.

I still want to do a drag race thing at one of the 5 events a year we run at drag strips. It would be cool to see how the different setup perform in a straight line.
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Old 04-02-2019, 09:05 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
I think you need a gendron bar to go with those spherical arms now. Its really crazy how going to real bearings on the sway bar increases front grip even with the same stiffness of bar.
im hoping the new bushings I had made provide the same results.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:05 AM
  #39  
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This makes me feel things that mechanical things shouldn't make a person feel.

Also... Shrek is love, Shrek is life.
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