are you going to flare it?

 

Heh, its actually was a hair lower than stock(even though nb springing is supposedly taller?). Koni cup kit dealy for NBs with NB tophats. Revalved to SPSS3 (race) valving Spring changes to come later, once i start to play in car.


Super:
Might flare it, depends on how well the Louisville Slugger modding goes later. Those wheels/tires are just to roll around on. Eventually they'll get real rubber for track... but I still have R stuff to burn through first.

 

Heh, I was just thinking of the reaction you'd get from CR.net about your ride height and wheel fitment. lol.

 

Tell me about it Car doesn't go lower until I work out real spring rates and bushing details.

 

Car is sick as fuuuuuuuk

Needs more bolt on fender flare in flat black! and 16 x 10 inch wheels.

Also what kind of under tray do you have, if any? With this much done I'd start looking at flattening out my under body. Depending on how my business proposal goes I may have some pretty bomb info for anyone looking for aerodynamic advantages with a full time race car.

 

I'm still unsure what undertray route, if any I'll go. I did pickup some cool corrugated plastic (looks like corrugated cardboard, is 1/2 thick and strong... enough for splitter/tray.. we'll see).

I need to finish my upper IC ducting and the lower rad/bumper/IC ducting first though.

 

I meant how do you get it so high up on the jack stands

 

Hehe, I was going to comment on that earlier, but figured you knew you needed to shroud up the V mount to prevent air from just by passing your sweet set up.

I really like what you've done. It's all the cheap "diy" stuff that I've thought about doing but don't have the fab skills to do myself...or the somewhat dedicated purpose to the miata. If you need help brainstorming undertray ideas I've had some floating around waiting to be played with to see overall effectiveness. If you get it right should only go to help the flow you're looking for across the radiator, and pull down engine bay temps.

Ever given any thought to venting out the fenders?


Chop em on the body line and space it out some. Seal up the bottom completely? *shrug* would match the nature of the car

I've seen it done on a GTS Corolla, thought it could be done pretty easily on the miata as well, trying to find pictures.

 

Oh, when we were working on it. Big jackstands, and doing it with 2 rounds of jacking up. One up as high as i could, onto stands. Then using wood on top of the jack to go even higher, then tossing the big jackstands under.

 

MX, had thought of doing this at some point.

 

Well, added a 2nd set of driving lights in the turn signal area, so maybe the dual driving lights will be nice for night driving.

Ebay short shifter went in, suprisingly nice piece. I think I'm going to see about getting an extension for it made, as it is a 2 piece unit and could just be turned into a FLP (fastline performance) style shifter. Puts the shift **** almost at center of wheel level and just off to the side, goofy looking... but nice for quick shifts.

Also dropped a regular battery in...


Tossed a new alternator belt on.

Nice thing though... car started up on about 1-2 seconds of cranking... its been sitting since last fall. I love it Won't idle yet, needs cold start tuning first... but i can hold it a 2k without issue.

Tonights attempt list:
driving light electrical, hood vent duct, main ic/rad ducting, ebc wiring, attempt at tps wiring (this one i have some homework to do for the nissan tps)

 

There is a guy selling some cheap shifter extensions on ebay that fit the miata shifter. I have seen the ebay short shifters and like them as well but I don't know if they are the same thread as the miata to use the extension sold on ebay. I too which my shifter was about 6" higher so it was closer to the steering wheel. If anything just for track/autox days.

 

It would probably be the simplest solution, and I have thought about it. I'm sorta thinking of doing it off of the lower half of the shifter itself. Just for strength. That way as I increase the height, my attachment point isn't the thinner threaded area of the shiftknob section, but the wider/stronger area in the middle that joins the shifter together.

Low priority though, just my mind getting carried away

 

I know exactly what you're talking about. I see it as you have two options, retain the weight of the heavier top piece and deal with a skinny extension that might break. Or remove the heavy top piece, replace it with a steel shifter extension to regain the weight lost and enjoy it in all of it's glory. Sounds like a plan to me. I still have the stock shifter myself so I haven't crossed that bridge. I just no that shifter with the top piece removed with no weight added back to it would suck.

 

Yah, a weighted shift **** can help with that. I love the heavy skunk2 **** that has lived in my last 2 civics, overpriced... but the weight is so nice.

This is the FLP for people curious btw.

http://www.fastlineperformance.com/shifter.htm

 

I can see the time savings of reaching "over" rather then "down", but damn does that look awkward to learn

 

That's exactly what I wanted! Very neat piece, high quality.

 

If you like two handed driving like I do then I bet you would actually prefer it over your current low shifter.

 

Using two hands while driving? damn never tried that