my 1600 gt2876r setup
 

few picks of my 1600 built engine running gt2876r and hydra ems
all work done by myself

the manifold
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5bolt to v-band adaptor
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turbo suport
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the down pipe
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centre section
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the engine bay
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that compressor housing looks huge compared to the turbine. Interesting heim joint mount...hopefully it works out.

What strut bar is that?

love those heater hoses!

I like the ideas but I have a few opinions. 1) The hiem joint support is a good step but I think you are in trouble mounting it to the valve cover bolts. They are not made to withstand the stress an I can almost guarantee you they will break. I would fab a bracket similar that uses the engine lift mounting points. The same bolts that you would mount a hotside supercharger to. 2) Those pie cuts on the downpipe are going to kill your flow because they are too large so that you can get your radius. What I would recommend is you buy a small radius "donut" and cut the same shape out of it to replace you pie cut section. Donuts will provide you with the smallest possible smooth radius that you need.

Otherwise, looks really good. I take it you used an ebay 1.8 top mount mani and then custom welded it to a 1.6 flange?

nice

Actually, after looking at the last pic again. Cut the current heim joint support out of the equation. Modify your front suspension bar (forget the normal term) so that a heim joint mounts to it.

its threads like this that make me appreciate BEGi's welding sweatshop.

Are you sure you need that much bracing?

I mean, almost everywhere I look for turbo manifold there is no bracing at all. It seems only here where people has "bracing madness".

nice to see another huge compressor taking over a miata.

yeah I gotta say, that downpipe is nice except where you turn the gas in sharp corners. You can get 3" small radius (or donuts as neo suggests) and at the VERY least, pie-wedge the bend instead of straight pieces.

otherwise, pretty. though I'm curious how many boost spikes you get with an internal wg :D

I'm pretty sure thats a modified ebay manifold, which would explain the extravagant bracing. The OP is just being precautions so that he never has to removed it to fix a crack.

why not brace the turbo from the motor mount?

Also a good idea.

looks beautiful.. my one problem has already been mentioned: that downpipe needs to be way smoother

the problem is the V-mount adapter that sticks out 10" off the turbo.

+1 ditch that vband adapter or get a v-band turbine housing if they make one for a t2

not that i have a vast knowledge of exhaust mani's or anything but i just finished reading the exhaust manifold section in Corky's 'maximum boost' and i couldn't help but notice that --

your mani' doesn't have any kind of seperation on the flange between each port in order to compensate for heat expansion. otherwise the flange is just going to bend into a fatty arc.

please correct me if im wrong

$$$$ vs time spent. I SAY AWSOME DUDE! 3inch. Yea the bends may hurt a little, 3inch that is alot of flow. And it sure beats spending $400. That is something if you wanna change later you can. I can't wait to see a video of it going down the strip. That should be pretty wild in full boost. Bolt it up.

If you decide to change it, pm me, I want it if the price is right. My Diy car needs a bigger dp. :)

Am I the only one that is concerned that his exhaust is mounted to rigidly and has no flex piece?

Too,

the worst of it is to be bolted on the ppf. Should add a flex joint after the dp and let the exhaust hang freely with stock rubber mount

the DP to mid pipe has one swaged joint ( if thats what u mean byvflex piece)....other than that i think its kinda eff'd