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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-13-2016, 05:47 PM   #21
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yes
yes

it would be easier to just start with the 3, but that should still work.
the benefits of the 3 aren't just for turbocharging either, you will feel the difference even n/a
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Old 07-13-2016, 05:56 PM   #22
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I will attempt to install/tune the ms1 with wideband then while still Naturally Aspirated.
Waiting on my down pipe so that I can install the wideband. ( Didn't want to weld the o2 bung into my OEM downpipe )
This will let me continue with my regular plan just now I will post pone sale of the ms1 until the turbo is ready to go in or until I get the ms3.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I will attempt to install/tune the ms1 with wideband then while still Naturally Aspirated.
Waiting on my down pipe so that I can install the wideband. ( Didn't want to weld the o2 bung into my OEM downpipe )
This will let me continue with my regular plan just now I will post pone sale of the ms1 until the turbo is ready to go in or until I get the ms3.
You don't have to weld anything to your stock header. You pull out the OEM narrowband and install your wideband there.
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Old 07-15-2016, 03:52 AM   #24
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:35 AM   #25
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I read previously that it has to welded further down the downpipe in order to avoid wideband damage.
Not sure what truth their is to this but I just chose the lazy route of waiting for the down pipe with o2 bung in the correct spot. ( Not knowing that it's fine in the oem spot.)
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:44 AM   #26
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I read previously that it has to welded further down the downpipe in order to avoid wideband damage.
Not sure what truth their is to this but I just chose the lazy route of waiting for the down pipe with o2 bung in the correct spot. ( Not knowing that it's fine in the oem spot.)
You don't. I have ran plenty of widebands in stock exhausts over the years without issues.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:53 AM   #27
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You don't. I have ran plenty of widebands in stock exhausts over the years without issues.
This may be true, but I have been seeing some stuff lately that alleges that the Bosch 4.9 sensor is especially sensitive to fuel and water damage and likes/can stand being placed much closer to the turbine outlet than the 4.2 sensor.

Most likely this won't be a problem but I figured I would make mention.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:24 PM   #28
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This may be true, but I have been seeing some stuff lately that alleges that the Bosch 4.9 sensor is especially sensitive to fuel and water damage and likes/can stand being placed much closer to the turbine outlet than the 4.2 sensor.

Most likely this won't be a problem but I figured I would make mention.
I can attest to that. I've had to replace my Bosch 4.9 twice since I bought the wide band 2 years ago. First one got killed when I drove the car through snow. Methinks the 2nd one has gotten killed from all oil my ancient motor puts through the exhaust. I'm averaging annual replacement with the sensor placed in the OEM location on the header.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:18 PM   #29
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Now planning on going with NA8/NB DEATSCHWERKS 300LPH FUEL PUMP KIT, plus Flow Force 640cc EV14 Injectors. Would the injectors be enough if I plan to run e85 ( will need to inject more fuel I believe )
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:31 AM   #30
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Those should work at 250 hp with E85. But, if you ever want to go higher you'll probably want 1000's. That's why I just got ID1000's from the get go.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:50 AM   #31
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How much power are the ID1000's good for? Would any of flyin miata 1,000 cc injectors be decent?
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:04 AM   #32
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I'd like to be covered in case I reach 300 hp and not have to change anything. Would the 4 EV14 750cc Fuel Injectors be good for 250-300 whp?
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:06 AM   #33
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Flow Calculator

Yes, the ID1000's.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:06 AM   #34
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I want to be covered in case I make more power than I'm expecting, however I would prefer to save some money and not get 1,000cc injectors if they are not required. I have already made a lot of exceptions on my budget and surpassed it by much more than I thought I would.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:11 AM   #35
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How much power are the ID1000's good for? Would any of flyin miata 1,000 cc injectors be decent?
Go Here, or here, ...or here to grab ID1000. No ragrets.

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I want to be covered in case I make more power than I'm expecting, however I would prefer to save some money and not get 1,000cc injectors if they are not required. I have already made a lot of exceptions on my budget and surpassed it by much more than I thought I would.
If you're wanting the option to be covered for future purposes, go ID1000. They'll idle great and give you E85 options. You can find settings somewhere on here for them to have them dialed in. Once that's setup you just have to tune and enjoy life.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:17 AM   #36
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id725's are same price as id1000's
non-ID injectors over 650cc start to lose precision and are not as good
but I guess if you are REALLY that frugal and giving up quality for $80 difference is a big deal to you, then sure, get off brand 750s

but seriously. getting much lower quality injectors for only 80 bux less seems kinda silly to me
injectors are one of the most important thing if you want the car to run well
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:23 AM   #37
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Ok, you guys convinced me, ID1000 added to cart.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:24 AM   #38
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As for coolant re route kit, I read on these forums that I would need one, is the 330$ from flyin miata any good? Do you guys have experience with other coolant re route kits that you would recommend?
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:39 AM   #39
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I don't think you need one unless on track
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:50 AM   #40
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That's good news from what I was reading I thought any type of added stress to the car would require the coolant re route to keep the cylinders at a more even heat. If I plan to auto cross would I need it?
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