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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-10-2007, 02:27 PM   #41
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I don't think he wants to pony up for the extra $300. Actually no, he's good for it, he just wants spool to be the priority. I don't blame that, he auto-X's often.

Just a guess here, but ~280rwhp in a less than 2000lb car would be serious.
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Old 12-10-2007, 02:41 PM   #42
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That is dead sexy guys
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:18 PM   #43
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I want one, how much?
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Old 12-10-2007, 06:28 PM   #44
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Paul that turbo is going to be something else! You have to post numbers when you're done. It looks beautiful. I want one.

Really nice job Tim.
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:13 AM   #45
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Till he gets the bill.
YOU DON'T EVEN HAVE A TURBO
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:33 AM   #46
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Neither do I.
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:48 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
I want to see how this setup works with the 2871

well i do want to turbo the other Miata. Maybe if the price is right on the BEGi S kit with turbo delete I will move the 2560 to the daily driver with that kit. Then we can swap in the 2871 to the Machine and see what she can do.
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:50 AM   #48
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Neither do I.
you have 5 & 2/2, 4 of which are laying in boxes, the 5th is on your Subie. The 2 halves are most likley laying in another box.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:46 AM   #49
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Oh yeah, you're right. I forgot.

I have a price on the BEGI-S with turbo delete, i'll talk to you about it tonight.

I should also have a price on this stuff too, sorry it's taking long.
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:45 AM   #50
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$600 for the manifold, $390 for the DP. With the turbo, all oil lines, coolant lines, intake plumbing and a small section of intercooler plumbing, what Paul has would be around $2100.

My 2.2l subaru with the same turbo spools slower/later than this setup.
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:36 PM   #51
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Been too busy to post much about the new turbo build since we finished it last Tuesday.

Tim has built an AWESOME kit once again. The car actually feels like it isn't turbo at all. Meaning there is no lag, you give it gas and the power is there, no matter where you are in the rpm range. The car breaks the tires loose at 50 mph if I mash the pedal. It's ******* unreal. It just pulls and pulls and pulls till redline. It throws you back in the seat and holds you there and as the rpms rise the acceleration becomes unreal. I can't imagine what it'll do once I do some tuning with the timing and then lose the hardtop and doors in the warmer weather. In the next couple days I'll be wiring up the boost control solenoid and screwing around with the MS settings for EBC. From what I understand this should make it build boost even quicker as the wastegate won't be opening till I tell it to fully open, no creeping open.

Here are a few pics of the finished setup:







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Old 12-16-2007, 05:46 PM   #52
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Good to know you got the turbo back!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:46 PM   #53
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that looks sick. Did you say you'll be removing the doors?
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:48 PM   #54
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i usually run the car with gutted doors. the gutted doors are just skins, no glass at all or inside handle. for the winter i've thrown on some spare doors & hardtop so i can still enjoy the car on the milder days. it has no heat system, no carpet. it weighs just under 2000 lbs with the gutted doors and no hardtop.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:07 PM   #55
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Good to know you got the turbo back!!!!!!!!!

thanks partially to you.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:43 PM   #56
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That bay is serious man, good choice in fabricator!

Oh, and it might be time to build another aluminum shield/wall to protect the MBC. Maybe make a cooling plate while you're at it.

What autoX class do you run?
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:56 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
That bay is serious man, good choice in fabricator!

Oh, and it might be time to build another aluminum shield/wall to protect the MBC. Maybe make a cooling plate while you're at it.

What autoX class do you run?
D Mod. they always seem to be confused when classing me. It might be X Mod idk.
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:07 PM   #58
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The longer i look at that manifold, the more i fall in love with it.

You could put the standard header's heatshield over the top of that thing and it would look like a factory job.

Would the 1.6 engines have similar clearance and engine mount placements? I thought the heads were slightly lower on them...

Great work!!!
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:42 PM   #59
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turn the elbow down and scavenge cool air!
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:14 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
turn the elbow down and scavenge cool air!

my headlights are fixed in the up position so cool air comes through there. turning it down would put it directly behind the radiator which would be hot air. the intake pipe is temporary. we discussed putting filter up in the front bumper as seen in the pics of another setup tim is selling



or i might have him redo the cast elbow & charge pipe to the IC so I can put the filter back where it was in this setup

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