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NA Build Plans - ARTech, MS3, and more!

Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:20 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JD8
Building a turbo miata is a slippery slope..
Yes it very much is.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:22 AM
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2.5 years ago, the absolute ceiling on my budget was 3k. This somehow ballooned to 3 x's that. Watch it.

First all you want is some ebay rods. Next thing you know, you've cut the floor out of the car to fit the seat you really want.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #23  
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Well it gets stupid expensive fast if you want to track a turbo car reliably and be above 200whp. You can build a fun street turbo miata for $4000 and have it be reliable. It is the minute you hit the track, or want more then what the stock rods can handle that the costs explode.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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Agreed. 100%
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
2.5 years ago, the absolute ceiling on my budget was 3k. This somehow ballooned to 3 x's that. Watch it.

First all you want is some ebay rods. Next thing you know, you've cut the floor out of the car to fit the seat you really want.
I actually just saw your floor modification on your thread a week or so ago. I am about as tall as I can be while still fitting in the car. I did a foamectomy on the stock seats. But ideally I will end up with something lower.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Well it gets stupid expensive fast if you want to track a turbo car reliably and be above 200whp. You can build a fun street turbo miata for $4000 and have it be reliable. It is the minute you hit the track, or want more then what the stock rods can handle that the costs explode.
I am going to do my best to keep it under control. I really do just want a fun street car.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 09:07 AM
  #27  
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It's all fun, until some 17 year old **** stain, breaks you off in the STI his parents pay for.

On the track.
Old Sep 20, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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Where do the GM IAT leads go for 94-97 cars? The following diagram/info is from Joe Perez that I found in a different thread. Would the GM IAT go to the "IAT" pin and the "signal ground" pin? Or the "IAT" pin and the "power ground" pin? I feel like this should be simple to figure out, but I don't know enough about how the sensor works to know the answer.

W/R = 12v
R/B = IAT
R/W = MAF (0-5v)
B/L = signal ground
B/LG = power ground
(MAF sensor is the bottom right one in the image below)

Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:52 AM
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5 speeds blow up on track over 225ft/lbs.

I've seen 2 do it.
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 08:49 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JD8
Where do the GM IAT leads go for 94-97 cars? The following diagram/info is from Joe Perez that I found in a different thread. Would the GM IAT go to the "IAT" pin and the "signal ground" pin? Or the "IAT" pin and the "power ground" pin? I feel like this should be simple to figure out, but I don't know enough about how the sensor works to know the answer.

W/R = 12v
R/B = IAT
R/W = MAF (0-5v)
B/L = signal ground
B/LG = power ground
(MAF sensor is the bottom right one in the image below)

yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
The IAT sensor is just a thermistor. A resistor that changes resistance based on temperature. So as long as one side goes to the ECU and the other side is grounded it will work.
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Forrest95M
yes the iat wires should go to the IAT pin and power ground, the order doesn't matter. I believe it isn't based on polarity
Why power ground and not sensor ground?

Unfortunately I realized last night that my connector does not match the diagram I linked above so now I am even more lost. Here is my connector:


Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:16 PM
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See here:
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...5-mazda-miata/
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:17 PM
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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Thank you both! From the diy site: "Wire one lead of the GM Sensor to the Brown Wire at the AFM Connector, and the other lead of the GM Sensor to the Yellow wire at the AFM Connector."

My connector has neither a brown nor a yellow wire! What is the deal?? But based on their images, they agree with Braineack so that is what I will be doing tonight.

Thanks again guys!
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
Any idea if this would be accurate for an MS3 with MS3X board built using Frank Westfield's guide? I just happened to pick up an MS EBC solenoid the other day but haven't had the chance to look into hooking it up yet.
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by JD8
Any idea if this would be accurate for an MS3 with MS3X board built using Frank Westfield's guide? I just happened to pick up an MS EBC solenoid the other day but haven't had the chance to look into hooking it up yet.
It depends on how your wired up your db37. I am not familiar enough with Frank's guide to say one way or another.
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by shuiend
It depends on how your wired up your db37. I am not familiar enough with Frank's guide to say one way or another.
I actually bought it with the car from Sklr. I will have to do some investigating to find out.
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JD8
Why power ground and not sensor ground?

Unfortunately I realized last night that my connector does not match the diagram I linked above so now I am even more lost. Here is my connector:
Looks to me like the only difference is you have a red wire and the wiring diagram shows a red with white stripe. Are you sure your red wire doesn't have a white stripe?
Old Sep 21, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
Looks to me like the only difference is you have a red wire and the wiring diagram shows a red with white stripe. Are you sure your red wire doesn't have a white stripe?
Assuming my red wire is supposed to have a white stripe (I am 100% sure that it does not), then everything would still be switched to the exact opposite side of what the diagram says it would be. Doesn't the box with the "x" in it denote the clip where the plug latches?





If so then the picture I posted and the diagram image are oriented the same and my wires are backwards (mirrored across the y-axis).

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