Hot_Wheels

iTrader: (12)

Ok i have a forged bottom end b6t built and im looking to making a turbo manifold for my gt2560r. Now my set up will be in a Ford Festiva. The fabricator will be making the manifold but i would like to get some input. First off what size tubing are you guys using 1.25? 1.50? the plan is to make a manifold to go over the transmission with the inlet facing the front of the car for fresh air intake. The fabricator manly builds v8 stuff, when i mentioned using cast mild elbows he wasn't familiar with this, he wanted to get some 3/16 thick 1.5 tubing. anyone have any good ideas on how to make the manifold? i would love some ipput. where can i get pre made merge collectors? I would like to start ordering flanges early this week so we can start working on it this weekend, where is a good place for tubing?

thanks

Hot_Wheels

iTrader: (12)

maybe the fabricator said 16 gauge? i found this, would this be good? its alot cheaper then steel els
MILD STEEL COMBO BEND 1-1/2 in. D 2-1/2 in. R - C76-442 at The Chassis Shop

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

How expensive do you want it? You can easily spend a grand on just parts from Burns and have it be nice and light weight and have an amazing merge collector and if properly fabricated, wont break. If you're not going to run a double slip collector for burns (which is what prevents most of the manifold cracking issues) then you just need to build a super thick beast with lots of gussets.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

This forum is going to ****, fast.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

I'll fap to a 2560 in a Festiva...

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Pardon if this is off topic, but..........why?
Long tube implies you want lots of power and lots of torque on a large turbo running big boost.
Then you plan to slap a 2560 on it? Then throw it in a traction-less festiva?

A friend of mine has a 16g in one, completely homemade setup, and it spins like no tomorrow.

Hot_Wheels

iTrader: (12)

The reason it will be long tube is due to there is no room up front. We figured we would relocate it over the trans due to.there is plenty of space. With the stock cast log manifold its to close and heat soaks the radiator. I can get you a better picture if you want to see how little room there is to work with. Tractiong has been dealt with. I'm using a mfactory helical diff with a set of traction bars.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Trust me, I know about the packaging issues. My friends is diy tubular, and he's using a honda radiator mounted on drivers side which gives him plenty of room in front for the turbo.

And he has an M-Factory diff as well = still spins like crazy

Its just that you are looking to spend at least 800-1000 to build a sidewinder like you're wanting, and I'm not sure its worth it on a 2560.

But anyways, if your mind is made up: go check out what Artech and Turbotim are using, and DO NOT listen to Leafy: he has exactly 0% manifold building knowledge.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Only building the manifold for the formula car but thats only NA and only makes EGTs hot enough to glow red through internal and external ceramic coating. While also supporting the 20 pounds of mufflers.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Make sure you don't use stainless.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Cool story bro.

Build one for a miata and document the process, then prove that its worth a **** and I'll take my words back.

I'm trying hard not to hate on you in every thread, but honestly 90% of your "knowledge" is either complete bullshit, or doesn't relate to a miata in any way shape or form.


Anyways, back on topic:

OP - i'd suggest 1.25 piping from ace or weirtech

And I agree with viper - eff stainless. mild ftw

fastivab6tg25mr

lol... whats wrong with a turbo festiva?


dont use 16ga. it will crack out in a month or two no matter how much you gusset it. are you funning a full sized radiator? getting a 2 core honda radiator and moving it to the drivers side an inch or so will be much easier than a massive manifold.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Why can no one use "advice" properly?

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I want to see a link to the 3/16" thick 1.5" tubing the fabricator wants to use. If he said 16 gauge and you misheard, then I'm sure that may work with a slip collector like has been already said.

1.5" schedule 40 pipe, when smooshed oval with a press, is a good match for the 1.6l port size. But I would probably run 1.25" schedule 40 pipe. And I like stainless better but that's more money.

I buy my mild pipe from mcmcaster and stainless from ace stainless depending on the quantity. For straight sections of tubing I use onlinemetals.com.

you can buy premade merge collectors many places, I have seen them pretty cheap on ebay, vibrant makes some, etc. ARTech will probably sell you just a collector too.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

YOU NEeD ADVICE

Hot_Wheels

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the suggestions! The fabricator did say 16 gauge, I went back and read my notes. 16 gauge is alot cheaper then weld els, I picked up a cx racing premade t25 collector.

Hot_Wheels

iTrader: (12)

i know everyone on here is against the 16 gauge but this is the manifold the fabricator came up with, the turbo will actually be supported on top of the trans, so there should be no weight on the manifold.

nitrodann

Ah man, how did he forget to weld?

it will work if its supported very well, but gees it isnt pretty is it?

Dann

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

Harbor freight $90 flux core welder?