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Old 08-05-2009, 10:10 PM   #1
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Default Need help on rotating sr20 t25 oil feed ports

So i ave a stock sr20 t25 and the oil feed is on the bottom facing t25 flange it needs to be 180* on the other side how do I do this? I have already loosened the four olts on the exhaust housing and have pb blasted the **** out of it what next!!?>>.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:16 PM   #2
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crowbar + vice + all your effort in the world
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:18 PM   #3
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Are you being serious?...... ?
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:27 PM   #4
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See your PM.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:36 PM   #5
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You have to push way ******* harder than you think you should. People routinely hit them with rubber deadblow hammers or use broomsticks shoved into the compressor housing to break them loose. Once it pops, you can spin it by hand.

I clocked the hell out of my 2871 trying to get the oil drain and stuff to fit. It's so god damn nice not having to PB blast ****; I just loosened a few nuts and everything spun by hand.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:51 PM   #6
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there's also a circlip on the compressor housing that should be removed....that's hell right there.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:52 PM   #7
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MAN you guys aren't kidding I'm gonna have to try this tomorrow with a fresh head I'm getting pissed and I don't want to **** anything up
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:54 PM   #8
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So wait i need to remove the c clip to rotate the center part as well?
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:55 PM   #9
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the compressor housing has to be secured to it somehow...but you can rotate without removing it.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:59 PM   #10
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alright, Looks like I'll be whipping out the torch tomorrow because this MF'er won't budge!!!
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:41 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p51hellfire View Post
alright, Looks like I'll be whipping out the torch tomorrow because this MF'er won't budge!!!
Be careful with that torch. If I remember correctly there are rubber seals in there. It was a massive pain in the *** rotating my t25. It took a lot of patience to get the c clip off, and once that was off, it took several blows with a deadblow to get it finally move.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:51 AM   #12
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FWIW, I did NOT remove the huge snap ring. It will kill any reasonable set of snap ring pliers. It will go without removing the snap ring. I did it on the advice of Brain and others here and it all worked out fine. No torch is needed. Mount it like I told you in your PM, stick a duct tape padded piece of pipe (I broke a broomstick) into the outlet and pull. I used a four foot piece of pipe for better leverage and it was much easier. Once it breaks all of the carboned oil and **** loose, it will move much easier.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:52 AM   #13
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Seriously, why are people so hesitant to bash on their turbo with a hammer? I remember when I first heard how it was a viable way to clock the turbo, it was like Christmas morning.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
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FWIW, I did NOT remove the huge snap ring. It will kill any reasonable set of snap ring pliers. It will go without removing the snap ring. I did it on the advice of Brain and others here and it all worked out fine. No torch is needed. Mount it like I told you in your PM, stick a duct tape padded piece of pipe (I broke a broomstick) into the outlet and pull. I used a four foot piece of pipe for better leverage and it was much easier. Once it breaks all of the carboned oil and **** loose, it will move much easier.
lol wish I knew that about 6 months ago The only snap ring pliers that I could get which would take it off were a $100 MAC ratcheting set, and even then, was sort of sketchy.
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:02 AM   #15
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It's been posted in the past, but the easiest thing on the snap ring is to make some snap ring pliers. Buy the 12" long 90 degree needle nose pliers from harbor freight for $6 and grind a notch right at the tip (to help hold the snap ring) and you can remove the snap ring without even taking the CHRA off the turbine.
P51hellfire, since you are pretty much local (I'm in NW St Johns county), you can borrow mine if you want.
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Old 08-07-2009, 10:57 AM   #16
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well clay thanks for your help but I'm not trying to rotate the compressor housing. I'm trying to rotate the middle part with the oil feed and for that i have to break the rust seal on the exhaust housing which is a pita!!
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:44 AM   #17
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Yeah, I was mainly restating the needle nose method in case anyone finds this doing a search. It comes in handy when clocking the compressor. If you leave the compressor and CHRA locked together and then rotate the CHRA to get the oil drain vertical, you may find your compressor is not where you want it (like I did). As for breaking the CHRA free from the turbine, try the method of backing the 4 bolts out of the turbine housing all the way until the bolt head is up against the CHRA. Keep cranking the bolt after contact and the bolt will help push the turbine off the CHRA. That may help break it loose.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:31 PM   #18
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I PB blasted the crap out of the snap ring and tried to remove it with no success, but was finally able to get the thing to spin enough, after some movement it really does spin almost by hand.
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:49 PM   #19
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If you do end up buying snap ring pliers, make sure to get a set like these:

SnapRingPliersInternal90DegreeBent.jpg?t=1249699665

not these useles ones:



I think Northern tool has them for $10 if there's one local to you.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:53 AM   #20
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LOL Ok guys I finally got it!! I PB blasted it for a full day straight every hour i'd spray some more... then I let it set for a day, Went out to the vice the next morning and hulk smashed the **** out of it, Still nothing...... so I got the vice to grab the center section and with one final whack it broke loose!!! So now its ready to go on my new setup!! Thanks all Hope this helps someone in the future!!
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