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Old 08-24-2011, 09:39 PM   #1
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Default Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing

2000 Miata

So without an essay, Was trying to mount my Intercooler today and it's being a bit of a pain, but I'll give it attention tomorrow. I'm very baffled at how I will be able to get 2.5 alumunim piping from the turbo to intercooler, and i/c to throttle body.

EDIT: 18psi's setup saved me a bunch of headache. Thanks for the help guys.



If anyone has a n/b with a/c and similar hard piping, please discuss how you routed it or eve show pictures. I'd really really really appreciate this.

The oil return is also becoming a pain when I look at it how it will be routed. I'm plan to drill and tap with the pan on the car, but DAMN, it seems impossible to run a line past everything (lines and a/c, and more lines) to the pan.

Again, if anyone has a similar setup. Please show me the way.
Not trying to stress, but I forgot how crammed this car was lol

Thanks

-rick
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Last edited by sickmiatabra; 08-25-2011 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:31 AM   #2
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Remove power steering and air conditioning... have plenty of room for pipes.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:39 AM   #3
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The location I drilled for oil return was easy and works well. Pictures in build thread. Not sure how similar a 1990 and 2000 are, but it might give some ideas.

I'm a fan of skipping the IC, btw. I like WI.
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:33 AM   #4
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Hey I'll be happy to help you out, just finished my 2k build a few months ago. I'll try and get some pics if you need them. What kind of intercooler? Oil lines are no prob for a bottom mount just drill in the correct spot and run the line straight down from turbo, under ac/ps and to the tap. It wont even rub anything if you cut the hose the right length. The coolant lines are a little bit of a bitch but if you attach the lines to the turbo before you put the turbo in they're no problem. But to be more specific we need more info about what your setups going to be.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:14 PM   #5
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Intercooler is a cxracing 25.5x7x2.75 (20x7x2 core size) I have the flyin miata cast mani (log style) with a garrett t3.

copy and pasted from my introduction thread
DIY turbo setup:
-Garret t3 turbo .60 compressor .63 exhaust t3 flange
-Flyin' Miata cast turbo manifold
-NGR Type S BOV
-I/C and Piping (CX Racing)
-2.5 in" downpipe
-Oil Feed: Sandwich plate from glowshift, fittings and line from summit.
-BEGI vacuum block
-Flyin miata boost gauge
-AEM digital uego wideband
-Oil pan bung w/fitting $16
-2.5 in 5bolt V-band Swing Valve
-Internal wastegate actuator
-460cc injectors
-Brain built MSII (not here yet)

Ok, so I've seen the only spot for the tap which is the one you're referring to and that's the only rout I can take really. So I i'm not worried about that.

My intercooler is a little to big to easily mount in front of the condenser and radiator. (but I'm sure I can make it work somehow.)

I've seen it's in my best interest to reroute the coolant line to provide more room.
And I realy don't want to get rid of a/c and p/s.

Pics of a setup who pulled this off! Please!
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:41 PM   #6
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The oil return should be pretty simple, just comes straight down from the turbo and taps in just below the AC bracket.

The charge piping is a pain with AC but your options are pretty straightforward. You're either going over the AC/PS or you're going under/around it. My piping goes down from the turbo and snakes between the AC lines off the compressor, I can try to take a picture when I get home. I know I've seen some pictures of 18psi's old setup that went over the PS you could probably dig those up by searching.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:42 PM   #7
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I drilled and tapped my pan for a barbed fitting, and I used a rubber hose. I would advise against this. Use a -10 AN fitting and a braided hose.

As far as I/C routing, I'm thinking clock your compressor to be a top exit. That way you can route the piping over all the pumps and down towards the I/C inlet.
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:05 PM   #8
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money money money. If I can source a line and -10an line before I go through with all this, i'll do it. Otherwise, I'm looking at a 3/8 npt barb fitting and a rubber hose. (I've had and good and bad experiences with these.

I like you're thinking on clocking the turbo for a top exit. I find it sad that underneath the car looking up, You can't see straight through. That's when reality hit. lol

Anyone know how to make sure the rx7 460cc injectors I have will work? # 195500-1350

I know they came high and low impedence and I need high of course. How can I go about checking before I find out the hard way.
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:14 PM   #9
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I found a picture on my photobucket I figured I'd post.

This is looking at the hotside, on the left side of the picture you can see the PS/AC and where the charge pipe goes under the AC line, it's a tight fit.
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:22 PM   #10
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Thank you for that but i don't think that's 2.5 in piping. AND THANK YOU PDEXTA found his thread and it solved all my problems. Definitely going that route!!!
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...t=49710&page=2





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Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing-preturbosetup.jpg   Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing-preturbosetup3.jpg   Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing-preturbosetup2.jpg   Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing-preturbosetup4.jpg   Need specifications for oil pan tap and intercooler plumbing-preturbosetup5.jpg  

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Old 08-25-2011, 06:04 PM   #11
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Well looks like you figured it out, I'm actually working on my build thread atm and plan on doing a write up for nbs with ac/ps, i'll post up some more pictures of the actual hole here in a minute.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:39 PM   #12
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Yeah I'm about the comfort features and would love to have a car just as quick and nimble as another with my a/c and p/s vs no a/c and p/s.

I like the look of the hotside going over and around plus he welded it to be one pipe, meaning he's running only 4 couplers which is a huge plus in my book.

I still have my hair spray ready to do work on the connections.

I plan on making a build thread too. Hoping all goes smoothly but I don't have my hopes up or anything.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:46 PM   #13
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Glad my 2nd build thread helped you out.
Actually I used 5 couplers, though you could technically get away with 4.
The setup pictured had ZERO problems for the year or so that I drove it, and was more simple than my "over the rad" one.
When you enlarge the hole behind the headlight make sure you round off the endges because it will saw through the pipe/coupler if you don't.
Otherwise its fairly straightforward
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
When you enlarge the hole behind the headlight make sure you round off the endges because it will saw through the pipe/coupler if you don't.
+1

I almost sawed through my pipe before I caught it, not I have a spare scrap piece of coupler acting as a buffer.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:35 PM   #15
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I've rounded off and put a rubber gasket around a whole I had in a s14 before (it had had already cut a chunk out of some anodized aluminum piping) and was starving my mpg lol. Looking forward to the setup And thanks for the heads up.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:06 PM   #16
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I recommend using this for an oil drain. Used it on my build almost 4 years and still working great with no leaks!

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:06 AM   #17
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Thanks for that. Stuff is still coming together for this kit. Should be legit soon, but I'm taking my time.
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