slothy

Hey all,

New guy here, I picked up a 1990 miata for pretty cheap as i've been planning to do another project car for a while now. My goal is to hit around 200 hp and have a reliable setup that I can drive on nights/weekends.

I recently acquired a '99 rear end and all the goodies to do the swap for next to nothing and am in the process of installing that now.

I'm currently sourcing a 1.8 engine to swap, as the 1.6 is making some not so nice noises - ie a wee bit of knocking or something else that isn't exactly pleasant.

I've done a fair amount of research and it seems that the MS pnp is the way to go with these cars. Would this be my logical next step once i get the new motor in?

Also for my 200hp goal, i'd like to remain on stock internals... it seems that many have done this, but is it reliable with a good tune? When i do the swap i'll pop in a new head gasket and timing belt, etc.

The final question i have is a recommendation for a turbo. The last VW I built I used a gt28rs, but that seems too big for my current goals.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

You're on the right track. Keep reading and searching, and you will find the answers you seek.

1.8 = win

ms = win

7" diff = win

GT28RS is too big for your goals, I'd look for either a T25 from an SR20DET or a T3 50 trim churbo. Lots of info about both here.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Just leave the head gasket in the new engine. Whats it with people new to miatas wanting to just throw a new head gasket in like its nothing and normal. I know its a DSM thing, but seriously. If the engine has good compression, and you arent doing a complete rebuild, dont open it up theres no reason to.

slothy

It's just always sort of been my standard practice. It's much easier to do a timing belt and headgasket when the motor is on a stand. I did it for both my vw and my integra when the engines were out.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Do the timing belt sure. But the head gasket is not a wear part. Even though doing the TB in the car is stupid simple, because the engine is orientated properly because it drives the correct pair of wheels.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

This.

HG's aren't something we do around here on the regular like Hondas(sleeved pistons??) and DSM's. But, i would suggest a reroute. You might as well when you are doing the swap. That will save you from any future cylinder 4 problems.

slothy

The reroute is news to me...

Is this what you're referring to?

Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Cooling : Flyin` Miata M-Tuned coolant re-route kit

Sounds like you're saying that's better money spent than messing with headgasket/headstuds? Thanks for the advice.

albumleaf

iTrader: (7)

Much better spent, yes.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Like others said, leave the headgasket. Before the new motor is in you should: upgrade the clutch, do all the seals (front/rear main, cam seals, valve cover, etc,) tap the oil pan for turbo oil return, timing belt/water pump, and certainly a coolant re-route. And of course clean the **** out of everything.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Here at MT, we do things right or not at all.

It's added insurance. But yes i am talking about that. Do some research about blown engines, overheating, or coolant reroutes. It will answer a lot of questions. Remember, you're adding a turbo to a car that doesn't originally have a turbo things need to be upgraded/fixed.

mx5-kiwi

BUT we are all tight *** cheap bastards!

(well the cars are so cheap it makes sense not to go crazy....)

IcantDo55

iTrader: (11)

<-stock HG 150K 16psi 220whp

slothy

Hi all,

I'd like to bump this up to ask some more questions.

I've gotten the rear end swap done, and have also done 1.8 brakes all around.

I've been looking for a 1.8 engine for the past few months and am having trouble locating one for a reasonable price. The only 1.8's ive seen are all VVT motors for over $1500.

I've seen many 1.6 engines from crashed miatas and am thinking i might just stick with the 1.6 platform - as they are much more easily accessible in my area.

For my goals of 180-220 whp, it looks as though the 1.6 block will be fine.

I think the next step i want to do is get MS going.

For a 1990 miata i believe this is the kit i want:

DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com

Correct?

I'd also like to run tuner studio and get the autotune going. Will all this be compatible?

Also, i assume the the autotune feature needs a wideband o2 sensor?

I'd like to fully play with MS and TS before a turbo even comes close to the car.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

I got a 1.8l on Craigslist for $150. Have you checked there?

slothy

I'd buy it today for even $400, closest i found is buying a "jdm" motor from new jersey for $600. (plus $100 round trip for gas)

It just seems the added cost of the 1.8 (in new england) isn't worth it.

I've been on CL and ebay. No luck.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You need a 1.8 in New England? Want an NA8 one? Compression tested out 160-165. You really want a VVT engine or at least a 99+ though. My spare is about as strong as a freshly rebuilt "stock" 1.6. But you're in NE looking for a maita part. You should call the Chechens.

slothy

What are you looking for the NA8 engine leafy?

What's chechens? lol

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what I want for it yet.

The Chechens are two brothers (?) from Chechnya that are in NH that buy wrecked miatas and strip them, or fix and sell the decent ones. They have boxes of everything, I'm sure they have or can find you an engine.

evank

iTrader: (2)

I recommend checking out Apex Auto, in Marlborough, Mass ... Lester Seal is a Miata guru and can probably hook you up with the engine you need.

Or take a small road trip to Planet Miata, in northeastern Pennsylvania.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

There's a guy selling a 1.8l near Philly om CL. No price though...

MIATA NA 96-97 Crazy BLOW OUT SALE!!