Just found this post which points to BOV purchase sources:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4202

More searching... how and where to hook up a boost gauge... w/pic!:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ighlight=gauge

sam,

my turbo is clocked like the original BEGI/FM kits. yours will be 180 degrees from mine, how BEGI and FM do it now. i haven't finished the installation on this kit, i'm still prepping the car and re-familiarizing myself with the Link ECU. my greddy kit was heavily modded before i removed it.

i just took this pic. look at it...this is how FM and BEGI run their coolnt lines. the turbo coolant lines run over the top of the PS pump, or around to the right:

KFJ, that pic is perfect, just like the last one. Man, it would be awesome if you could do a vBGarage with all those.

BRG, I added that auction to my watch list, thanks.

Rican, you're set on getting me to buy a loud BOV. From a pure performance standpoint and based on what people say about an OEM Bosch unit, I really can't go wrong. They work great, are quiet, and are dirt cheap. I love the effort though!!!

Also, a few of the Flying Miata pages, like how to tap the oilpan are no longer there.

OH YAH, I almost forgot to ask about any gaskets. I probably need one for the manifold and DP(both ends)... what else?

Great link... I read about Hakuna in another thread, but couldn't find it (because it was form M.net).
It looks like that was just a sleeve designed for a rubber hose. I know the oil feed line should be braided, but it doesn't look like the return does. Does it. At around $25 a line, you could spend over $100 to go full braided for the 4 lines.
The do-it-right part of me says go full braided, but the $1700 budget says the water lines at least are going to be hose. I assume section of standard radiator hose will work as long as I route it not to touch the turbine.

I've also decided about mounting a boost gauge. I'm going to place it on top of the steering colum... slightly offset left so it should just cover up the 7k-8k range on the tach. I need a really small gauge... it doesn't even need to light up... I hate bright gauges. I think VDO and Autometer are the popular choices.

You are correct. Braided is overkill, but less worries. I went braided after trying to help a buddy change his rubber oil return line. I had another buddy lose a coolant line and I've read about them failing and cracking. It's not common, but it does happen.

Just wanted to Add that $25 a line is worth it imho to eliminate another problem out of my head, i'm going braided oil lines (Naturally) http://www.turbo-supply.com/page/page/1027429.htm

But also want braided water lines, good thread btw and good luck with the install, i know finding out all the info is a pain, but its great to learn and if you find / read about it yourself not only will it stick in your head for longer but you will feel like your have achived more :)

I like loud, you should hear my exhuast ...LOUD! you can hear me a couple of blocks away....not always a good thing , but I plan to get it fixed soon :bigtu:

Rubber hose on water lines is fine but for my money the oil seems to degrade the rubber hoses to quickly for peice of mind braided should be used on both the supply and feed lines. i get mine for about 50 bucks a line at the local parker store.

I just spent the last half-hour looking around my engine bay trying to find all this stuff we've been talking about... and I found them. Go ahead and laugh...

All right, the only thing I couldn't see was the oil feed tap. I could see where the dipstick goes into the pan, but could not see the tap from under the car. I'm still searching for a good pic of it, I know I've seen one.

Thanks OG, just added those two sites to my ever growing TurboStuff favorites. However, I'm tired of looking at five different sites to piece these line kits together. I think as soon as I actually get the turbo, I'm going to piece my lines together based on the connections that come on the turbo. Hell, why buy lines now when the turbo I buy might come with them as part of the deal.

I've PM'd about half a dozen people over on the SR20 forums w/T25's for sale. Looks like I will probably be able to score one for about $120.

I found this Boost Gauge that I really like. I don't need one that goes up to 30psi, and this one will be easy to read mounted on the steering column: http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...2%26sale%3Dyes

Nice gauge, but you should really get one that shows vacuum also. It is a very good diagnostic tool.

you want a boost/vac gauge, look for a 30~hg/15psi


maybe something like this:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...id=3243&sid=12

or this:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult.asp?...Series=Series1

reading your vacuum is just as important as reading your boost. What are you a supercharger guy? next you'll want to boost 8psi without an intercooler or fueling.

here are some of the pieces of my kit that im putting together. :bigtu:

Rican, nice little pile of goodies!

Braineak: I didn't know it was that important... all right, back to searching. I think one of the Autometers is a good choice like you linked. I'll find one of those I like the looks of and get one that reads vacuum to... this one is pretty sexy. http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...category%3D145 I like the fact that the divisions between the numbers are large... you can probably tell pretty accurate down to the 1/4lb or so how much boost you're putting out.

yeah thats a nice looking gauge! I like them clean like that.

Long Long Post...
 

All right, I’ve been working on this post for about ½ hour... it's basically a summary of the entire thread. If you've been keeping up with me over the past couple of days, thanks a lot. My last few questions are listed at the bottom if you just want to scroll down... or happy reading.

Turbo: SR20det T25. It should start to spool around 2k and reach full boost at 3k. They’re dirt cheap. Every dude who imports a JDM SR20det takes the stock turbo off and puts on a T28 or T3. These things go for $100-$150 and are usually in great shape. I will need to clock the compressor so the outlet faces down which might present a wastegate placement issue, but I won’t know until I get it as I haven’t actually ever seen one in person. They are water cooled, oil lubed, and should have no problem getting me the 8/9psi I need.

Manifold: From Begi, bought a T25 mani who still had a couple on the shelf (probably all gone now but you can call. $266 shipped). The Begi as far as I can tell has never had a single complaint about it. It should last forever. All the other options I searched led me to “issues”. Plus, I think at some point or another we all owe Corky a little of our money for the awesome work he’s done for the hobby in general.

DP: Still working on it… Tony should be getting back to me shortly w/his options or I’m pretty sure I’m again going with Begi. The DP they’re selling now looks like pure sex. Wastegate diverter tube and beautiful welds. I’ve still got to solve my test pipe need and how to hook the whole thing up to my 2.25” Borla Duals.

MBC: Decided to skip this for the initial install. I see more people with low-boost systems not using MBC’s than using them. I know I can get a Hallman off of Boostcontroller.com for $50, but I’m going to wait a few months. I’m sure my tuner will have an opinion on this, we’ll see what he thinks one can get me after I’m all tuned up w/o one.

IC/Piping: Bought the standard 28x7x2.5 eBay special that a dozen other guys around here are using. It’s cheap, it works fine, it fits, and the pipe routing couldn’t be easier. In one side and out the other. I had originally planned on an over-the-rad setup, but the engineering involved in cutting the hood or moving the radiator doesn’t fit with my DIY For Dummies approach. I’ll go with a standard piping arrangement around the outside lower corners of the radiator. The piping itself is still up for debate. I’m thinking about one of the $100 eBay universal sets… one with more bends than straight pieces.

Intake: My intake should look almost identical to Braineaks and a few other around here. I’m going to run a 180* bend out of the turbo and point the filter at the firewall where I’ve already got a hole cut into the space that leads to the grated area under the wipers for my current DIY CAI. This is in conjunction w/my RX7 AFM. I’m also going to make a heat shield (again not reinventing the wheel) to isolate the air on that side of the engine bay.

BOV: Although the temptation almost got to me, I went with the original plan of a quiet BOV. I was pretty certain at the beginning of the project that I would need to recirc. However, at this time I’m fairly confident that I can overcome the idle issue with a one-way check valve and go VTA. This saves some engineering and hose routing and still gets me a little “whoosh”. An OEM Bosch BOV for an Audi/Porsche/DSM, pretty much whatever will do, and they’re around $25. The boost/vacuum source for the BOV is on the top of the throttle body. I do not have cruise control, so one of mine simply has a plug on it. The other routes under the manifold and connects to the black coffee can on the fender.

WATER: After much hair pulling and having about 20 iExplorer windows open at once, I’ve decided the best (read: easiest but just fine and cheap) is to go with the 3/8” hose that OG linked from the McMasters website. It think it will take about four feet of line which should be about $25. That hose will last as long as I need it to and the turbo will probably come with fittings on it that I can slide the hose onto and secure with a hoseclamp. Tapping the water source off of the pump neck is a simple job, but routing the lines around the turbo will take a little "carefulness."

OIL: The feed line needs to be braided but the drain line does not. I’m going to get one of the 4an Feed Kits and 10an Drain Kits from turbo-supply.com and be done with it. Total for all water/oil lines +/-$70 and they’ll last as long as I own the car and I can stop worrying about it. Taking a feed off the block requires a M10x1.5 metric to AN fitting. Tapping the oil pan for the drain has been extensively documented and just requires you to go slow and be careful.

Fuel: The Begi AFPR appears to be the Miata DIY standard device by which all others are compared. I don’t know anything about tuning it yet, but as far as mechanical fuel control, I don’t think you can do better. This in conjunction with the 1.8 injectors and a Walbro 190lph HP in tank pump appear to be the simplest way to get enough properly metered fuel into the engine. There are a few variations on this theme, but you can’t argue with the ease if you’re just after 180hp… and it’s cheap. A dual feed fuel rail seems like the way to go. It costs about $10 and might just save you an engine. It’s not really worth debating. I’m doing it.

Spark: Bipes, nothing to discuss. It’s really the only choice. Spark plugs… see #2 below.

Gauge: Looking for a small white gauge to place on top of the steering column offset enough left that I can see the idiot lights and covers up the red-range 7-8k on the tach. I want white so I don’t have to wire it for light and it only needs to read up to 15psi BOOST AND VACUUM. The ones that read up to 30psi have no place in my setup and with a gauge that only reads 15psi, you can get a more accurate eye on how much boost is there. I see some 15psi gauges that I can discern the needle down to the 1/4psi. You just can’t get that with a 30psi gauge.

ISSUES STILL OUTSTANDING:
#1: On some cars, I see the breather line on the valve cover above the turbo has been replaced by a small filter and no line. On other cars and what has been recommended is that I route a line from that breather port into the intake between the MAF and turbo? What does that port really do and does it need a line or can I get away with a small breather?
#2: Still no word from anybody on 1step colder plugs. Do I need them and what do they do for me? If you say yes, I will buy them. I’m good like that.
#3: What are the size of the stock vacuum lines running around the engine bay. If I just wanted to buy a 20ft length of tube to cut up for the various runs, what size is recommended?
#4: What intercooler pipes to buy. EBay universal kit? Custom fab at a local shop?
#5: Cheap hi-flo conical filter. K&N is nice, but I can do just as good for cheaper. Recommend a brand please.

180RWHP for dummies continues….

Check out what I made. I hope you can see the text boxes. At some point I'll do one of these for every applicable component on the engine that involves a turbo project... once I know what they all are.

I'll make a few comments and suggestions. Keeping in mind that these are only my opinions and not to be taken as gospel, or even correct :)

MBC: Cheap cheap cheap. Do it. Many reports on helping the turbo spool quicker than just connecting the vacuum line direct to the waste gate can. I've had one on my car since I installed the turbo.

CAI: There is so much heat added into the system because of the turbo I don't really think sucking in cooler air is going to help much. Especially if you are running an IC. Probably very little return for the amount of effort.

BOV: I'd personally recirculate it. You can get the idle issue solved with a check valve, but you still may have trouble when lifting or shifting. When I was configured VTA I would attempt to feather the throttle from WOT to 3/4 and would get some bucking. Once I plumbed it back to the intake the issue was completely resolved. Of course there are people who don't have this issue. It really takes very little effort, and just a couple of bucks for a pipe nipple, JB weld and 1" heater hose. Routing the hose is simple.

Oil feed: An alternative to the M10 to AN fitting is using a banjo fitting and bolt. I was unable to source the AN fitting locally, but was easily able to find the banjo hardware easily. Many OEM oil feeds are done this way (including the 323 GTX). Something to consider. I personally would go with the most common setup incase I had to replace it on short notice, but then again I'm a little gun shy on the subject, due to having my greddy part break.

Boost Gauge: I've had two autometer gauges that were inaccurate at best. One was 4psi off, the one I'm currently using is about 2psi. The vacuum side is also inaccurate as well. I rarely look at mine anymore. My boost control is very good and consistant, so I'm not too worried about spiking. It was useful when I had an exhaust leak at the turbo flange.

Issues:

#1: People seem to do it both ways. I have mine fed back into the intake just before the turbo. I see that there is a little bit of oil residue but nothing I'm going to worry about. If it becomes an issue I'm going to try an inline fuel filter and see how that works. Some really are against venting the crankcase to atmosphere, it is supposed to help the turbo drain. Me, I think it'll work either way.

#2: 1 step colder is supposed to help with detonation, by reducing temps. There is plenty of reading on the exact reasons why, google and m.net are your friends. Gapping the plugs closer helps make more reliable spark when the cylinder pressures get higher. Both of these are cheap insurance even at low boost.

#3: I took a peice of vacuum line to the local autoparts store and found something close. Not sure of the exact size, but I do know there are a couple of different sizes.

#5: I have a K&N knock off, Ractive I think. Seems to do the job, should probably clean it these days.

Again, just my experiences and observations.

MBC:Don't skip it, they had be had on the cheap for about $15. When you plumb directly into wastgate the swingarm starts to open as the boost increases, untill it reaches that magical point where no more boost is to be made. Not only will this not allow for any adjustable other than tigthening the wastegate actuator rod, but you loose spool! Throw a MBC in the mix and you can keep the swingarm closed as long as possible. This means your exhaust does not get wasted and it spools the turbine faster, untill you reach that magical point on the MBC where it dumps open, this then makes the wastegate reach that magical point where it opens the swingarm. The first time on the dyno I had leftover time so I was playing around; with a MBC i was making 160hp if I removed it at the same boost level I couldn't make more than 145hp and the spool was signifigantly slower.

ISSUES STILL OUTSTANDING:
#1: On some cars, I see the breather line on the valve cover above the turbo has been replaced by a small filter and no line. On other cars and what has been recommended is that I route a line from that breather port into the intake between the MAF and turbo? What does that port really do and does it need a line or can I get away with a small breather?
#2: Still no word from anybody on 1step colder plugs. Do I need them and what do they do for me? If you say yes, I will buy them. I’m good like that.
#3: What are the size of the stock vacuum lines running around the engine bay. If I just wanted to buy a 20ft length of tube to cut up for the various runs, what size is recommended?
#4: What intercooler pipes to buy. EBay universal kit? Custom fab at a local shop?#5: Cheap hi-flo conical filter. K&N is nice, but I can do just as good for cheaper. Recommend a brand please.

[QUOTE=samnavy;42377]
The lower radiator/coolant tube will be in the way, if you clock the turbo downwards. It can be re-routed though.

Only one reported problem, and that was after we posted no reported problems. But Corky seems to think that it was caused by him timing adjustment and not a bad casting. Corky is revising his "MaximumBoost" book and will be done shortly. Go buy it, and you'll be a friend for life. :)

I think that the hose coming off of the thermostat is 5/16" not 3/8". If the turbo already has fittings, be sure to check and make sure they are not clogged and/or tightened securely.

If you can't find the correct port, shoot me an e-mail. I have lots of photos I could send to help you out. Same with tapping the oil pan.

You are better of with the regular FMU/FPR. The MR will work, but is not the best choice for you application.

Run it to the compressor inlet tube.

5/32" ID. All auto parts stores have it.

Custom Fab. Or buy pre-made in and out of intercooler, then custom fab turbo outlet and throttle inlet.

K&N

Hope that helps.
Stephanie

Sam you have a lot to digest. A lot of this "little" stuff changes because of unforseen isues or sometimes your head comes up with revised ideas. Physically get the major components first: turbo, mani, downpipe.

Make some room on a workbench or whatever, assemble them together to test fit them. It gives you an idea of how it's going to look and fit together. Work on the small stuff with this assembly to get it nailed down: studs, hardware, WGA location, clocking the turbo, WG bracket, lines and adapters.

when you have that nailed, move onto the next component system. i found that if you work on the subassemblies, it makes the entire project more manageable and you're less likely to overlook something. writing down lists and notes really helps a lot.

I think what you're doing is smart, but sometimes I think going out and buying off the shelf stuff here and there can create scenario where you take 3 steps forward and 1 step back because some of the stuff you already have might not work the way you envisioned or you start to narrow down your options because you have already bought this or that and you stick with them because you already bought them. with your low budget, this is even MORE important because you'll want to do it right the first time.

if you go with a custom intercooler configuration, you have to expect some downtime on the car. if it's a daily driver, maybe a prefab kit might cost more, but it's done and easy to install, minimizing the time it's parked.

wOw !!! seriously alot of helpful info here...I have a ? out curiosity...if I use stainless steel braided lines for all oi feed/return lines as well as my water lines, what are the recommended lengths i need, along with proper fittings to tackle all this On my 1.8 ,Im looking for reccomendations not ansewers

The lengths of the lines will somewhat depend on your turbo, manifold and orientation. When I bought my oil line I bought it too long just to be on the safe side. Causes no problems other than having extra hose, I think of it as an oil cooler.

how long did you buy them?

Just so you know, I picked up the bosch BOV off an s4 for 20 dollars shipped to my door! I would recommend ebay as theres usually tons on there. I ALSO picked up one of the 20 dollar shipped TurboXS type-H knock offs. Why the hell would I do that? Honestly I just wanted to try it. Why not :) If it ends up working, I have an easily swappable toy to make it loud/quiet.

why keep it quiet , when you can strike fear into ricers hearts with a nice rev and make them shit their pants!! ;)

for the 1.8, i believe you have to run the oil feed line from a "T" installed in the oil pressure sender tap. Nick (jdm aflac) had a crate 1.6, so he had to run his line like that. he bought it from FM.

basically, what we did was remove the intake manifold to access the tap better. after that, we removed the oil pressure sender (at the base, not on the plastic), assembled the brass "T" and fittings provided (one had a fitting to accept the sender, the other had an NPT to -AN fitting adapter) installed it in the sender tap, installed the sensor and 4' (it was 48-54" long, iirc) braided line. we ran the line over the top of the transmission bell housinh and up under the heater core hoses. we reinstalled the intake manifold and went from there. it's a pretty long line, so i would prime it before actually running the engine.

on my oil return line for my gt25 on an FM mani, I use an 18" -10AN braided line.

for coolant lines i am not sure of the lengths.

It's better when they have no fucking clue of what just happened.

:skid: :owned: http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/ownedance.gifhttp://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/mj.gifhttp://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/ownedance.gif

When I had my BOV VTA I had every ricer idiot in the 96 sunfire wanting to race me. "Ohhh it's a turbo, bet I can take him" ... uhuh. I'm tempted to ditch my a-pillar boost gauge for the same reason.

I honestly find loud BOV to be really annoying, it just seems like a big sign that says I have a turbo.

LMFAO ,nice burn to rice :gtfo:

I don't mind all the attention I get from ricers on the street, all their shit talking makes it even more satisfying leaving them in the dust with their jaws dropped acting like wHat the fuck just happen...some people are surprised of how fast these little cars go with full headers ,intake and exhaust...Im not! I want more power!! :bigtu:

WOW, I get stuck flying all day and there's a whole other page when I get home.

JayC: I will get an MBC. I will route the ValveCover breather to the intake. I will plum the BOV for recirc... but at least once I'm going to take the pipe off to see how it sounds. Banjo is an alternative to AN. Autometer has quality control issues.

Steph: Sorry you weren't there when I called the other day, Mary helped me out... and I may hit you up for those pics just for my archive. Once I decide whether or not I'm going to keep my AC, I'll look into replacing the stock radiator hose with one more convenient. I understand all the other stuff, thanks. Looks like a K&N is the universal choice for filters.

KFJ, those little "gems" of knowledge are great. I should be able to put the car up on jacks for a week if needed to sort everything out. I know the motto, DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT. The IC piping is really the only thing I have to outsource, unless I go w/couplers and don't weld it. In fact, the piping will have to be last.

NEWB, I'm having trouble finding NEW oem BOV's on eBay. I guess it's just not the week for those.

When I had my BOV VTA I had every ricer idiot in the 96 sunfire wanting to race me. "Ohhh it's a turbo, bet I can take him" ... uhuh. I'm tempted to ditch my a-pillar boost gauge for the same reason.

I'm all about stealth!!!

OK, back to searching, eBay, classifieds, and sleep.

hey Tom I found the perfect site for the water and oil fittings on this site for the sr turbos
http://www.customsteel.com/sr20/html..._fittings.html

Careful, even some ricers have fast cars :) I still drive like a thug now and then, but I don't like to attract attention.

I went to an RX7 club autocross this past weekend. All the talk of big horse power and how fast they were and the mad skillz and all that. No one gave my Miata even a second look. There was also a GT3 there. They all paid attention when I was 3 sec (1:13) ahead of the GT3 (The course wasn't suited to his car, the guy could drive though and I expected to have my ass handed to me) and 10 sec faster than the next car. Well at least until the course was destroyed and everyone was skipping the slaloms (no marshals and they were slow to reset the course). I'm not the world's greatest driver, but it was nice to put some people in their place. All this and the car was running like a bag of pooh once it got really hot.

Jay

I'm with you right there. The last few autocrosses I've been to the local WRX/EVO hooligans have been out in force. I'm right in the hunt with those guys. One of them came over and asked what I was running. He made me open the hood to prove it when I told him "stock"... but not for long.

My Begi manifold showed up yesterday. BEAUTIFUL!

All right, Ebay is good for some things, but apparently not for cheap turbo's this week. Check out my T25 ad in the classifieds... YOU IN?

I was in a wedding in DC yesterday and couldn't think about anything except the damn car.
"So Sam, how have you been?"
"I've been great, thanks for boosting... I mean asking?"

"Sam, I haven't seen you in years, how is work?"
"Wonderful, yesterday I picked up a blow off valve on the radar."

Braineak I've taken the whole week off. I'm not going anywhere, but I've got 60 days of leave stacked up and I'm on shore duty... so I'm OFF!!! I've got dinner with some former squadronmates on Tuesday near Arlington, you busy that day?

BACK TO TURBO STUFF!
-Any reason I can't build and install my DualFeedFuelRail, Begi AFPR, and Walbro this week while still NA. I know I could install the Bipes, but I haven't found one yet!

-I went by Advance and Autozone just to see what kinds of things they had I might be able to source locally. The only things I found were vacuum lines and the fuel lines. I couldn't remember the sizes, so I passed. But other than that, they didn't have crap. The guy behind the counter had a mild SRT-4 in the parking lot and he said... online and ebay. Don't even bother with a store, unless it's a dedicated import performance parts store... and that there weren't any in Hampton Roads. I guess I'm limited to the internet after all... not so bad.

I've got the chance to source some 305 green top injectors for a decent price. We had talked back on the first page of this thread, that the 1.8's would be enough for my power needs, and that the only real problem with the 305's would be an idle issue that is easily solved by tuning the spring tension on the MAF. Can anybody say "Don't get the 305's, stick w/1.8's and heres why..." or can I get these 305's and feel confident about it.

I can tell you my thoughts on the 305s once I get some good tuning done with them....And if your around on Tuesday shoot me a PM for my cell.

Thanks Brain, I look forward to the results. I just purchased a set of 1.8 inj's and a Saab bypass valve... it's coming together!

I was making good power with 1.8 injectors, 170hp/145tq

First, when did this guy become such an expert?:) :eek: :cool: :bigtu: Awesome. Also, nice job on the "what goes where diagram."

I have a "ebay" universal kit. I'd link, but there are none for sale at the moment. Black 2.5" aluminum pipes, silicone coulpers, and t-bolt clamps. Not bad really, although you must bead yourself.

May I see a pic of the cut for the CAI? I was dead set on doing it, but I'm thinking maybe not now, I don't want to hack then realize it's not what I want but now there's a hole, ya know? Thanks..

I dig the Warner gauge.

A good comprise for the breather is to leave it routed in the intake to alleviate the potential problems, but install a small filter inline. A fuel filter works well from what I remember because it's small, cheap, and clear so you can see if it's full of oil..

I emailed you a high res pic of my engine bay. I also downloaded the Microsoft Image resizer Philip recommends in the FRONT DESK forum. It's awesome will probably become the most used program on my computer. I've put some pics of the car now in there.

You can see it's just around hole cut in the firewall above the Brake Master Cylinder. The hose is just some flexible tube and the black part that goes through the firewall is a short section of black PVC... simple.

If you cut the hole and then decide you don't like it, I'm sure you could find a something to plug it with.

Thanks, samnavy.

I just ordered a few more parts...

MBC from Voodoo_Boost on ebay. I bought the plain brass one. I read through all their feedbacks and everybody seemed pleased with their products. We'll see how it works. I can't imagine it won't work properly.

Also bought that sexy Stewart Warner Boost Gauge from RacerPartsWholesale.com part#: STW114536

I still need to source the following parts:
Turbo: I've got my feelers out for a SR20det T25. So far, lots of turbos out there... just waiting for the one I get a good vibe from. I'm going to run standard hose for the water lines and a couple of the turbo-supply.com braided line kits for oil.

DP: Probably going with Begi for that as well... need to talk to them about the fact that I'm currently running a RB 4to1 Header and have no midpipe... also want to go w/test pipe and eliminate the cat... and have Borla Duals. Everything needs to mate up properly.

Bipes: I just hope I'm around when a used one gets posted... it's mine!

Intake: I've found on eBay the adapter that mates to the square intake on the RX7 MAF and gives you a 3" round to mate a filter to. They're all such horrible cheap crap though. I really just want a decent adapter and a decent 3" name brand cone filter. What are the rest of you RX7 MAF guys doing? I still need the intake elbow to from the turbo to the MAF. We'll see how that goes when I start getting things installed. I also need to remember the BOV recirc port when I engineer all this.

IC Pipes: we'll see. The jury is still out here on the best way to go. I'll need to get the turbo and IC in and then mock something up and see what I really need. One of the eBay kits I'm sure would work... but I also think I can do better. I also need to get the IDLE AIR PORT and BOV flanges.

I think that's about it for now. I'm still considerably under my initial $1700 budget. I'm actually looking at around $1550 (slop included). That breathing room should get me my dyno time. I know there are always little things I'm going to need, so I'll probably in fact end up at $1700 for all parts. You guys will know the instant I do.

lasT time I checked there were like 5 sr20 turbos on ebay going for dirt cheap, I saw one go yesterday for 120 with both inlet and outlet adapters..check every day, THERE'S always somthing new..oh yea....What a fucked-up weekend I had...man..anyone care to hear about it

post it in BS

Yup, believe me, I am. I've got a special folder in my explorer favorites titled "T25 spots"... and there are about 15 of them I look at several times per day. I know they're out there, I just need that good feeling about one and it's mine. Some of the ones on ebay I don't trust. I saw one I did like and emailed the guy for more pictures/specs/history... he said "It's off my Sentra, I don't have time for pictures, and you can look up the specs online." Needless to say, no Sentras in the US ever came with a T25 so that doesn't help, no pics=no sale, and no specs=no sale. It's guys like that who make me nervous about buying online.

Yes But they do have a drop in SR20 motor for the nissan sentra A.K.A the blue-bird-special :bigtu:

I thought the blue bird motor was a ka24det in the altimas

yes that motor Is used as well, but they have a front-wheel drive version of the sr20 powerhouse,I've seen it In quite a few sentra's at local meets

OK, more pics and questions...

1st pic: I'm 6'4" and decided to take 1" of foam out of my seat. Used a sharp razor blade and didn't hold back. I sit about an inch lower and it's just as comfortable.

2nd pic: Compared my stock MAF(right) with the RX7(left). The bolt pattern (believe it or not) is exactly the same except you can see the opening is different, and the bolts go into the RX7 and studs come out of the stocker. I don't see why I can't get an el-cheapo ebay MAF adapter and filter and use it now. If there are no problems for the rest of the time I'm NA, I should feel confident when boosted.

3rd/4th pic: I'm going to remove my A/C and don't know which bolt is the one that's too long and I need the shorter replacement from Mazda. Can anybody see it in these pics?

BY THE WAY! If you don't have the microsoft picture resizer Philip links to in the "vBgarage installed" thread in the Front Desk Forum... you're missing out. This thing is the absolute bomb. I never used to upload pics because it was such a pain. It's so much easier to ask a question with a pic for reference.

Search my name and "image" and you'll see who should get some credit for that program....Or if you are too lazy : https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ighlight=image

Yea im thinking about removing my ac as well, what exactly do you need to do to remove it? ... maybe it's not a good idea in florida to take out the ic

samnavy

I don't recall if this was addressed yet, but heat shield on the various lines around the turbo.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=10261

I still need some lines...Im confused as fuck as to what I need

I'm still debating a little. It will depend on what the turbo comes with. If it comes with some sort of OEM tube for the water lines, I'll go with standard radiator hose. For the oil feed, 4an and banjo fittings seem like the deal. I'm actually working the idea of running the oil return down into the drain... but see my new thread for that... not giving up on this one, but that idea needs it's own place.

OK, have been at the Pipe and Rubber store again. Here's what I picked up. The guys at Hampton Rubber are awesome. They gave me that half-used tube of lube out of their shop because they were out of stock.

Now, who knows the cheapest source of quality silicone vacuum line on the internet. I just need plain black to send signal to the FPR, BOV, Boost Gauge, Idle Air port, and Valve Cover breather port. Stephanie says 5/32" for the small lines.

What about the Idle Air port, what size tube for that, it only needs to be about 6" long.

And, How do I attach the ports for the BOV, BOV recirc line on the other side, Idle Air Port, and Valve Breather line to the intercooler piping.

You can get vacuum line from Pep Boys. It's in the back in a self serve kiosk thing, that you cut. You can choose from all sorts of sizes. Or they should have it in the HELP section.

I was thinking about this today. Unless someone has a better idea, I will use the same barbed fitting you have in the pic, sized accordingly. Screw it in enough to seal and that's it. Apply JB liberally. Spraypaint.

That's damn good thinking... maybe cut a few threads off so that it will seat all the way down but not protrude into the airflow. What about a flange that just sits on top of the pipe that can be JBwelded... or use very small screws that you can file down from the inside?