New project begun, gurus look here!!!
 

OK Boys, this is it... time to dive in! Today with the purchase of a junkyard RX7 AFM now I can say I've officially started my turbo project.
Braineak, bripab007, 92BlackandTan, Loki, RicanMiataRacer, KFJ, and a few others, you guys are both my heroes and nemesi', nemesis's, nemesises... you know what I mean. I think I have about $1500 to spend.

Here is my plan:
Bipes
Begi AFPR
RX7 AFM
Walbro 190hp
Ebay FMIC, 28x7x2.5 under rad piping(for now)
DIY Dual Feed Fuel Rail
BOV- LOTS OF DEBATE HERE!!! Wouldn't mind VTA but must be somewhat quiet(GreddyTypeS too loud... think stealth) and not disrupt idle. If I must recirc, I think Bosch is just fine.
MBC- lots of under $100 options, but I think I need the knob in the cockpit... can I do a decent quality MBC with cockpit adjustability for under $100?
Injectors- Some guys are running as high as 330's w/above modifications... I don't think I need to. I think 305's will be fine as long as I manage the idle correctly.
If I keep my eyes open and am quick, I think I can source all of the above for about $800

I'm looking for supercharger-type power delivery w/ boost starting around 2000rpm and full around 3000rpm... My target is 180rwhp and I know I can get that w/8-9lbs of boost. Cost is a major factor, used will probably be my only route. I can manage my "boost bug"... I only want 180hp. GUYS WHO KNOW WHAT THEY'RE TALKING ABOUT, WHAT IS YOU BEST RECOMMENDATION FOR TURBO/MANI/DP given my needs, setup, and keeping me around $700 if possible. If $700 just isn't enough, what are we talking about $$$wise with your suggestion.

Again, I've been searching and reading everything the internet has to offer on turbocharging a Miata and I still don't know a few things. Is it unrealistic to think I can do this for around $1500?

Thanks for your help, long post I know, but it's all there!

Off topic- I'm looking for a webhost with an easy-to-use sitebuilder... standard hobby-type website for my toys and projects. Any suggestions.

PS, I'm ready to start buying, if you've got something that fits my bill, please PM me.

Just a few thoughts if cost is the primary issue...

1) Bosch BOV + one way check valve from Lowes/HD will let you run VTA and give a decent (not great) BOV whoosh for around $25. A bunch of old timers have run this way (myself included) without any idle issues. You can always upgrade later. This leaves you with more $ to spend on the turbo/DP/manifold.

2) In the beginning, depending upon the turbo, you may be able to achieve 8ish psi by just adjusting/shimming the wastegate. Granted this won't allow in car adjustibility, but it costs $0 which allows you to spend more elsewhere and you can always get a better mbc/ebc later

3) For 8-9psi, with the BEGI afpr + fuel pump, you should be fine with just 1.8 injectors which will save you from having to deal with idle issues. FWIW, the old FM I kits ran 8 psi on the smaller 1.6 injectors with the begi afpr + Pierburg fuel pump so I can't see why you wouldn't be able to do it with 1.8 injectors. I ran 8psi on 1.6 injectors without any problems. It was when I tried to up the boost that they ran out of headroom. They run ~$40.

As for turbo/DP/manifold, I think the current best bang for the buck manifold/DP setup is from BEGI. DP is $285 for mild steel and manifold is $439. Probably best bet is to get one for a T25 turbo which you should be able to pickup a pretty good one for relatively cheap ~$200. Total price of ~$925. I know that's more than you want to spend, but you get some pretty damn nice stuff with BEGI. T25 would also give you the earlier spool that you desire as well. Just some thoughts....

p.s. I don't know what I am doing, nor am I a guru, but I answered your post anyway. :)

tom is right.

i ran that style of BOV on my greddy kit. it was ok, nothing great. i think recirc is really the way to go, tho.

i think the begi mani is the best one out there, off the shelf. i wonder if old fm/begi manifolds will be available as the new kits come into play? people changing them out and what not...

i think picking up a new mani and dp will cost $700 alone. i like the t25, but you're going to have learn/research A/Rs and compression maps to get the performance you want. i picked mine up relatively cheap.

i few things i'm thinking about for what you want (cost and responsiveness):

with a begi or hks t25 manifold, you might be able to use a dsm t25 turbo (i'm not sure what the mounting flange looks like tho) and have a custom dp fabricated.

you could use a t3 off a saab (it's very small and spools VERY fast.), find out if begi makes a t3 manifold/dp for it.

find a more universal, small t3 and get a mani and dp from begi like braineak did.

i agree with tom about the injectors. for your price point and power target, you can run the 1.8 injectors with a used AFPR and bipes and still be very, very safe.

a gt20 turbo would spool really fast, but mating it to a manifold and dp may cost you as it's not really common and may require some custom stuff.

i'm not sure you want an MBC in the cockpit. you're going to want to set it and forget it. shimming, bleeder valve, or make your own mbc that is in the engine bay may be the best and most cost effective option. if you run it into the cockpit, it's farther from the pressure source (turbo) and may be a little delayed to respond.

if you WANT to use fm/begi stuff, you can find it used. you have to be patient and know what to look for. after my greddy kit, i learned it's better to have everthing you need AND want before installing it, otherwise you get into a situation where you GOTTA have it, out of need or desire. just make some really detailed open lists. it makes it easier and you won't believe the small stuff you forget about.

Two awesome responses... saving me money already.
Issues solved:
BOV I will use a Bosch VTA setup as Tom described.
INJECTORS I will use 1.8's. I assume I'll want any used set I buy to be flow tested and cleaned... My search just now revealed nothing, but what chain establishments will test and clean injectors, or will I have to take them to a pro shop?
TURBO/MANI/DP I assumed most people would point me towards a Begi mani/DP and compatible T25. Unless someone says another route is significanlty better or I can get the same quality and performance cheaper, that is my current direction... used of course. We'll see if the new products result in some used ones entering the market. Also, will most T25's be able to clock so that the compressor outlet is facing down, like Braineaks T3s60?

Remaining issue:
MBC Correct my possible misunderstanding about MBC's. The vacuum lines to the individual components of the turbo system should be as short as the install allows. So placing the MBC itself somewhere in the engine bay is the idea... but I see kits that include a remote knob that is cable actuated so you can control it from the cabin. I was under the impression based on reading here about how MBC's work: http://www.boostcontroller.com/display_page.php?i=21 that an MBC allowed you to esentially set boost on the fly. For day-to-day driving, maybe just a couple psi will do me fine... but for the occasional stoplight or short freeway entrance, just turn the knob to warp... afterward, back to impulse speed. Am I correct?

Side issue: At some point I'm going to need a dyno and a "tuner" to check things over and adjust my stuff. Having never dealt with a tuner and hearing more horror stories than successes, anybody know a good shop in Hampton Roads?

i've had three different set of injectors cleaned and balanced here. very good work. it's about $100. they are on the east coast, too.

garrett t25s can be clocked like braineak's.

personally, i don't like the idea of messing with an in-cabin MBC. it just seems like too much room for error then boom!

i haven't lived in va in about 6 years, so i can't help you there. maybe someone at the tidewater sports car club can help.

So I did have the MBC theory right? But based on suggestion, probably better to save it for down the road. OK. Thanks KFJ... now go to bed!

Cruzinperformance will flow test and balance your injectors for like $60 including shipping. Olderguy and mach929 have used him with good results. I plan on sending my larger injectors there.

As for am cabin adjusted mbc, I think the hallman mbc has a cable based kit for keeping the vac lines short but allowing adjustibility. On a side note, much be worth waiting for the ebc that briap007 mentioned in an earlier post.

You can at least get a pretty decent street tune based on the old FM I kit instructions and a fuel pressure gauge (see popvii pages for a cheap homemade one). It'll set the car up a bit on the rich side, but it'll hold you over until you can hit the dyno. Tuning is relatively "easy" since you only have three things to adjust: the base fuel pressure, the rate of rise fuel pressure in boost, and the rx-7 afm spring. I guess after you get fueling right, you can also mess with the bipes a little. Should be about 1 hour on the dyno. ~$100-$175 depending upon the dyno.

a bov is not absolutly necesssary if you wanta chaep brand new turbo i have a td04-15g brand new for 250 bucks. Drop me a PM. you could get a Tony dp and begi mani and end up with a nice setup or a nice megan racing 16g combo sounds nie as well. The 305's shoudl take about 3-4 clicks to the tight to idle and run correctly. I dont supose i can talk you into water injection as well.:)

I looked at the specs of that turbo and I think I would be sacrificing some spool for top-end I'll never use. I've also emailed Begi and hopefully Monday morning will have one of their leftover T25 mani's en-route... so I am looking for a cheap T25 and DP. Does Tony make one to fit. I think I'll also ditch my cat and go with a TP as I'm in the military and don't need smog checks here in Va.

Here's another thing I thought of: I'm sure there's a formula, but I went to a state school. It was said that 305's are overkill for my power needs. If I went with 305's, would I still need the Walbro, or would stock fuel pressure with the Begi FPR be enough. There seems to be a tradeoff since I'm stuck with the stock injector pulse length, where's the tradeoff between more fuel pressure and injector size. Am I correct in saying that the cheapest way to control the injector pulse is with an Emanage, which would negate the need for more fuel pressure and allow you to run smaller injectors. I'm not going to buy one, just making sure.

As for WI... Hmmmm... I think with the power I want, the simplicity of an A/A intercooler is the ticket. I know it's not a big deal to fill the tank whenever you get gas... but it is more to engineer/wire/etc... and if I go w/the Ebay IC, it all costs the same. I'll save the WI for another time... but I know you love it!!!

I just looked at the Megan Racing site. Their universal FPR looks the business and even has a guage attached. Anybody use this product or can attest to it. The Begi is the standard I think we all judge by... how does the MR stand up. Also, I could not find any Miata specific parts on the enitire site....

The dp and manifold are out of production and can only be found on ebay. i spool 2 psi by 2000 rpm the power delivery is very linear i made 100 + lbft and 80 or so whp by 3000 rpm at 8 psi before i installed the mbc to help my leaky wastegate and tuned my WI pressure and mix abit better as for install aside from 1 power wire going to a presssure switch to control the pump power and one supply line from the tank-pump-intake fitting. And a inline switch to control on and off the install was very easy. I run an obx fpr i picked up for 50 bucks it is a 12-1 the stock pump should be fine for you at your power levels esp since you plan on 305's heck i made 200 whp and about 170 lbft dynojet at 8 psi on the stock pump 1.6 injectors with just the WI and FPR, so you should be fine, but when you hit about 260 crank hp or 210 whp then you might look at a walboro hp 190 and 300 crank hp should be accesible. my offer of the small tdo4 still stands if you are interested i dont know if it will fit your manifold though.
BTW my entire WI setup was only about 350 bucks, 400 if you count the 55 gallon drum of methanol i bought not to long ago.

Just out of curiosity, what are the components of your WI system? And where the heck do you store a 55 gallon drum?

In an out building behind the garage. of course. I have a tapped 1 gallon gas can supplied 2 qaurt resevior 15-16 ft of 1/4 inch nylon tubbing one quickdisconect tee, a manual toggle switch to conrol on off when pressure testing other things such as fpr without running the pump, and the supplied 176 cc jet and a pressure switch adjustable between 0-30 psi along with spray nozzle and needed tap. This was my base setup as i quickly became unhappy with how long the 2 qaurt tank lasted i have since added a manual toggle to run in conjunction with my boost gauge light so i can bench test the pump while adjusting Injection pressure and a interupt to have the light on my boost gauge on or, have it come on when the pump grounds out via a parralel hot wire running to the common ground of the pressure switch with this i can set and test the pressure switch onset more easily since my boost gauge will light up when the circuit is complete and without the manual pump swithch being on i dont have to disconnect the fitting to avoid spraying into the car at idle or while sitting in the garage and tunning. it is realy pretty simple

Magna, I guess that's a good question for all of us. I'm being told two different things WRT fuel pressure vs. injector size. With a good FPR, ie. Begi... (still looking for someone to chime in with MR FPR experience) It looks like I can either go with the Walbro and 1.8 IJ's or stock fuel pump and 305's and make 180RWHP. Am I hearing this right? I know there is a calculation for this.

Assuming a stock injector pulse:
The drawback to 305's is the idle, but people say it will idle just fine with the RX7 AFM after some flapper spring adjusting. The drawback to 1.8's is that I'm maxed out... but that's not a problem. So what's the best decision. Either the Walbro and some 1.8's I can trust, or the junkyard 305's that need a test/clean. Either way it's going to cost the same.

And MagnaMX5, I'd also like to read about BRG's WI setup, but I'd like to keep this thread on topic. BRG, do you have a link to another thread you could PM Magna and I about your WI, or start another thread. Thanks.... WOOPS, too late, It's OK.

From the Rc engineering website
injector flow is= to the square root of new pressure/baseline pressure times baseline flow so with the 1.8's at 230cc and lets say 80 psi wich is doable on the stock pump then Sqrt of 80/43 times 230cc= a flow of about 330 cc with the normal 190 and a pressure of 90 psi this becomes 332 cc, or with some supra 305's obtained from ebay cheap heck mine where 10 bucks
70 psi=389cc and 90 psi= 441 cc. Wether this will be enough depends on your bsfc and cooling effeiciency check out this site and play with it some. http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET
i can and will start another thread sorry. good luck

First, I don't have any experience with the MR piece, but this is a rising rate FPR we're talking about here?

For my build the BEGI was the only option, since it's a pretty important part of proper fuel delivery. Hate to say it, but a used BEGI.... They do pop up all the time in the classifieds (except when you're looking :) ) from people upgrading fuel management.

Just some FYI From BEGI site, on their AFPR:

"Further, we’ve increased the span of adjustment for broader rates of gain. Even the onset of gain is adjustable! No other regulator provides the onset adjustment"

So im not your hero then? I see how it is. I guess about 300whp on a stock computer isnt good enough;)

An-dy Flo-yd, you're my he-ro. Did the ferris Bueller part come across? (Note, he did say "a few others" - you can just insert yourself.)

Anyway, Andy, dude, you have 300rw, run low 12s, trap 116+, you're a little out of everyones league.

:bowdown:

oOoOo sounds like a nice set-up, good luck...oh and the type-s Is the best sounding bv in my opinion.

I knew you were going to say that!!!! My build should look very similar to yours with exception of the emanage and BOV. How are you working your Perrin, did I have it right with my thoughts on this earlier?

Sorry Andy, put yourself in the "others" category.:) Much love!!!

Magna, great link to the RC site (I used .63 for BSFC and .80 for MIJC, was that right?). Based on your numbers, I could run either option. I think I like the sound of a Walrbo and 1.8's, less messing with the RX7 AFM.

Unless somebody can tell me I can do better/easier/safer than a Begi for less, then that's settled.

Now I've just gotta wait for these things to pop up used for the right price and be the first guy who sees the post.

I'm still open to discussion on any part of this setup and theory. I'd love to hear what guys think about what I'm doing... and I'm still looking for a good webhost.

looks good :bigtu: have you tried cardomain?

Cardomain would be all right for just the car, but I'm into a few other things... plus I hate banners and advertising (even though its free) and I'd like to be able to upload larger file size pictures than CD allows. For $5 bucks a month, I can get a webhost and have total control, but there are literally thousands and thousands of them. I'll probably just end up w/ Godaddy or 1and1... but I'd like to hear opinions.

BTW, I just bought the second piece to the assembly... a used(but new) Begi FPR... and the third piece, a Begi manifold...and the fourth piece, a Walbro 190hp..

When I called Begi to order the Mani, I also talked to Corky and learned a few things about T25's. I knew they were not all the same... but I also learned something I hadn't thought of. Most factory turbo cars do not use silicone couplers to attach the intake and IC like aftermarket systems, they use a flange with the stock intake/IC BOLTED to it. So, when sourcing a doner turbo, I'll have to make sure the compressor inlet/outlet will either accept or be able to modify to work with MY intake and IC via couplers. How this escaped me until now I don't know

Also... I PROMISE I SEARCHED AT LENGTH!!! I still can't make heads or tails of which cars to look at that will fit the manifold I just bought. I think that DSM and Evo's will not mate to the T2x flange. I think that Volvo's and Saabs will. I'm pretty sure that any SR20Det T25 will fit. Who knows? Just point me in the direction of the right car, ebay source, or classified ad.

SR20Det T25 will not fit, as far as i know. nissan uses a kweer enlarged 5 stud turbine exhaust that is slightly askew of the regular garrett t25/t28 turbos. also, don't know if the mount flange would work. the r32 turbo i tried woundn't fit because that flange has studs coming OUT of it, where on the begi mani, the studs come out of THAT.

the mazdaspeed protege uses a gt2554r ball bearing garrett with a universal inlet and outlet. i picked one up used for $350. it needs to be clocked, but it's easy to do.

Wait wait wait :nono: , Im using a Begi manifold along with a sr20 t25...It bolts on directly to the manifold, the onlyt thing I had to do was rotate the inlet assembly away from resting on the manifold...fits quite well

Since the car Is not running as of right now, I can't give any feedback on THE mb controller as of yet, but the perrin can control up to 30 psi, every turn on the mbc equals about 1.5 psi, I'll double check when I get home..but it looks pretty straight forward.:bigtu:

Heres a realitivly simple low cost boost set-up for about 6-8 psi of boost and its safe as long as you don't go boost crazy:

1-8:1 vortech fmu
2-1.8 injecters
3-bell manifold with t2 or t3 flange
4-t25 from a SR or t3 from saab vehicle
5-saab IC ,rx7 IC,or a starion IC
6-190lph walboro pump
7-2.5 inch downpipe leading into 2.5 exhaust sytem(helps the turbo spool)
8-boost gauge,egt gauge,a/f gauge,oil temp guage
9-A blow-off valve ...type-s still rules lol :bigtu:
10- oil return lines(stailess steel perferebly)
11-one step colder ngk plugs
12-manacore wires are a nice add
13-10-30 mobil synthetic oil(highly recommed it)
14-A manual boost controller helps

Thats basically it, anyone see anything missing in this list...feel free to add..

If you do go with the sr turbo and bell manifold, be sure to get both the inlet and outlet elbows for the turbo.

:bigtu: :eek5: hope this helps!

That is what I thought as well. I've just spent a couple hours researching this in depth. Here's what I've found. For T25/T28, Mitsubishi(sometimes referred to as MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) turbo cars (Evos and DSM's, maybe Dodges as well since they shared platforms) use a round flange to connect to the manifold. All other T25's use an "almost square" (slightly rectangular) flange. T3/T4 flanges look similar to those except they're obviously very rectangular and nowhere near "almost square".

All Nissan's T25's, such as cars with the the SR20det, CA18det, etc... come with a standard T25 flanged turbo. Most Saabs and Volvo's use T3 turbo as far as I can tell, but that makes sense as those motors are somewhat bigger.

So it looks like I need to source a T25 off someones Nissan upgrade. There are a few on ebay right now. I could do one tonite if I wanted to spend $200, but I think I can get a decent one even cheaper. I really would like that GT2554r, but they're just too much. I would also like the compressor oulet to point down like on Braineaks or Stripes!!!

PLEASE SOMEBODY TELL ME IF I'm WRONG!!!

And Rican, I'm doing pretty much exactly your build sheet w/exception of a BegiFPR, ebay IC... and a Bosch BOV (low whoosh, not jet engine woosh!)

my mistake about the sr20. sorry.

garrett turbos (t25) can be clocked to point down.

I see....hmmm yay I got a follower , sweet :bigtu: lol, I got my turbo along with the sr stock manifold and dumppipe for $110, turbo is perfectly good, no shaft play...the manifold and dump pipe are pretty much garbage to me...Not a bad ebay deal huh...I got pretty much all my parts of ebay, And I've delt with alot Of assholes on ebay as well :slap: , All I need now Is some Ic Piping and a custom downpipe....But keep it up, you are doin well young jedi lol.

oh yea FYI My car has the same exact milage 136 k. :gtfo: :bigtu:

LoL no worrys , :slap: :gtfo: WE can still be buds :dancegay: :D , lmfao !!
:bigtu:

They can defintly be clocked downward, but what am I going to about the wastegate? Im not running a external, so would I possibly weld a hanger on the side for It or what...im not sure

yep, you need to relocate the WG can. i was lucky that the ATP bracket worked perfectly. i just had to cut the WG actuator arm and thread the remaining pod a little.

Its all fine and dandy, I have plenty of room to work with in the engine bay..so it should'nt cause any issue. :bigtu:

Great, another thing I forgot. Well, now I need a picture of what you're talking about. What ATP bracket it this? What are my other wastegate mounting options since I'm sticking with the internal. I should have as much room as RMR. RMR, be sure to post what you come up with!

OK, here's where we're at: Total=$590
RX7AFM: $33.30
Begi FPR: $150.00
Begi Mani: $250.00 (w/shipping, might be a a little more)
Walbro 190: $150.00
Ebay IC: $105.00

Still need: Total=$640
1.8 Injectors:
Turbo: looking at a $100-$150 ebay SR20det T25
DP: still doing homework... easy route would be Begi mild steel: $265
Bipes: $150 used
Bosch BOV, BRG says I can do this for: $25

Grand total of MAJOR components= $1328.

I still need IC piping and couplers, oil/water lines for turbo, vacuum lines for all components, intake pipe and filter, and a few other things... should be able to do that stuff for $300-$400 whaddya think?. I figure I'm right at my initial $1700 budget. We'll see.

I'm going to search extensively now for what I still need, but you could make it easy on me and just post a parts list for those things I still need (or link a thread that covers it). I'll be honest, I haven't done any homework on how to run the oil/water lines or how/where to tap into a boost source to operate the wastegate/BOV/AFPR or what's even involved with the engineering of this stuff. This learning process is on-the-fly, but I'm spending money like crazy anyways!

Addditional question: 1 step colder plugs... what EXACTLY do they do?

Oil Feed is right off the block, return should be tapped into the pan. (Get FM or BEGi instructions)

Water lines aren't very complicated, they run off the lines from the thermostat housing.

run the wategate line off the boost source from the turbo (get a $10 MBC)

BOV source is off the manifold behind the throttle body

I have my AFPR t-ed into the OEM FPR vacuum line

That sounds pretty straight forward.

For water to the turbo: do I tap off an existing unused feed/return bung or do I have to T/Y splice an existing line?

For oil to the turbo: Where on the block is the feed? Is that source currently being used for something else or is is a spare? For the return, tap into the side of the oilpan (I've seen lots of pictures of this). Is it better to do it on or off the car. If off, do I need to buy a gasket for the reinstall?

For BOV, the source is behind the throttle body. Again, is this source used for anything else or is it just a spare unused fitting?

For AFPR... I know my Begi will be used in conjunction with the stock device. I should T a vacuum line off the stock device so the source is the same.

Question: As the stock crossover tube enters the throttle body there are a ton of extra feeds off of it. What do each one of them do and are those sources of anything for me? Also, on the side of the valve cover above the manifold, there's fitting with a chrome tube that runs across the front of the engine and into the crossover tube just in front of the TB. What do I do with that?

I know some of this stuff has been covered, but I'm trying to get this thread to the point that it's idiot proof and all inclusive for someone to follow. Also... IF YOU HAVE PICTURES OF ANY OF THIS STUFF WITH LITTLE ARROWS POINTING TO THINGS (ala Power Point style), I'M STARTING A COLLECTION!

Oil feed: Follow the dipstick tube down the block. You'll notice two bolts in the block. the one that is lower and closer to the back of the engine is the oil feed. It is M10X1.5, you can use a metric to AN fitting or a banjo fitting and proper bolt.

BOV: If you don't have Cruise there is an unused vacuum fitting on the intake manifold, right at the throttle body. If you have crusie, you can use a vacuum TEE to get "signal" from anywhere on the INTAKE side.

Look around for people's greddy installs, this will answer most of your questions.

tap into it. Brian (bripab007) should have pictures

answered above

no

on; Drain oil the oil first. Drilling and threading a hole in the oil pan is a perfectly safe process. The drain hole location is as far forward and as low as possible on the left side of the sump, directly under the A/C compressor. If you have compressed air that you can regulate, set the pressure to 5psi and connect a hose to valve cover breather. Drill until the bit just breaks throughi. Keep the air blowing while you drill and tap the hole. STOP DRILLING AS SOON AS YOU BREAK THROUGH! tap, JB Weld or Locktite fitting, run hose up, flush with mineral spirits, done.

Only the cruise control if you have it. Otherwise its capped.

yes, it makes the install easier as well

Fender side is for the Air Idle Control, it needs to remain. Otherside is for the resonator, it doesn't need to stay.

Route it back into the INTAKE, just after the AFM and before the turbo, plug the hole in the crossover.

DOES this apply to the 1.8 as well, or do you haft to find another source for the oil feed on the 1.8

As far as I know this doesn't apply on the 1.8 (maybe early 1.8) and a 1.6 crate engine.

For the 1.8 you have to Tee off the pressure sender on the opposite side of the engine.

I have a 94, so the dip stick trick most likly would not apply to this. no:eek5:

Take a look and you'll see for sure. It's pretty obvious if you know where to look. I just used the dipstick as a point of refrence, there really is no trick to it.

This stuff is really well documented. If you are undertaking a turbo install you might want to do more research, and if you don't understand something come and ask. I don't think anyone is going to write a turbo install for dummies type deal, and really if you need that you might not want to take this on.

No I don't need that...This is my first project that Im doing myself , so im just asking as many ?'s as I can Just so I can do everything right the first time...I just get a lil confused somtimes about certain things so I ask, As far as me as a miata owner Im first time owner, Im learning more and more about the car as I go along with the install, I have manuals and books on turbochargers and custom set-ups as well. If they had a book on how to turbocharge your miata that would be sweet and very helpful, but since they don't I can Only go on example so If I sound ignorent at times , bare with me :slap: :eek4:

Corky Bells book pretty much shows all the steps to install an Aerodyne kit on a miata. Or get some BEGi or FM install instructions.

Don't worry Rican... we'll keep asking dumb questions that have been asked before if we want. With 400 views and 45 posts in three days, I think Jay is probably the only person on the board who thinks we should quit now and throw in the towell. What a crap thing to write.

In fact, I think this entire thread is turning into a kind of "Install for Dummies". Just about the only thing I haven't asked or talked about yet is the tuning. And I will probably ask every single beginner dumb question about that as well even thought I've thoroughly researched... just to make sure I've got it right. In fact, maybe Philip will sticky this as the 180RWHP Install for Dummies.

Now lets knock this off and get back to how go fast.

I can help with a 171hp for dummies, I can't seem to get past there!

Oh really , what book is that If you don't mind me asking,He has more than one book does he not?:bigtu:

Although We most Like-ly won't reach 180hp Right off the bat, but with a lil patience we can overcome that, we are two people (I know I am) that are actually falling through with our projects and starting them...there's probly alot of people in this and other forums claiming that they are starting a turbo project, asking ?'s And getting ansewers...but after that its rare that we hear from these people again and thats why the people that answer the ?'s are anoyed at times becuase they most likly have ansewerd the same ?'s more than once, I actually want ,(really want) To go through with this project..thats I why Im trying to update every now and then On progress. Always persue your goals, If you don't they are just simply meaningless thoughts!:bigtu:

Asking questions is good. But doing your own leg work is even better. That way you'll have a much larger information base to form your own conclusions.

When I decided to turbo my car I started reading like crazy. First Corky's book. Then I read EVERY thread here. Every thread that showed up searching for "greddy" on miata.net. Read the old greddy faqs, the information on that Jim guy's site. I didn't feel I could even start to under take installing FI on my car until I got as much info as possible. When I started I didn't really know the function of a wastegate or BOV and how they were different.

And I still came here and asked basic questions. But what I didn't do was ask people to do the leg work for me. Most of what you need to know is posted right here, all you have to do is read and read and read. You'll be able to ask better questions once you've done that.

I wasn't saying that anyone should give up on their project, but part of your project should be to learn as much as you can digest.

WATER LINES:

there is a factory water line that FM?BEGI used on their kits on the 1.6.

looking at the front of the engine, specifically at the thermostat neck, there is a ~3/8" rubber line that runs from the right side of the neck to the block or waterpump. remove that line and run 3/8" coolant line to one coolant fitting on the turbo, run the other from the turbo to the other nipple the OEM line once spanned. that's it. the direction doesn't matter much (on the turbo). the only issue i had was the tight space between the BEGI mani and the left side of the turbo (looking from the front). ATP sells a banjo fitting that worked great. i couldn't get an -AN fitting to fit in there with the required adapter. look at the pictures of my turbo. the SR20 turbo will be configured in a VERY similar manner.

download these turbo pics to your computer.

now, the way i dressed my turbo is a little overkill, but the water fittings will need to be similar (you can use simple NPT brass hose barb fittings).

Hands on Is a very important part, I ask not for people the do the work for me, Instead I seek advice From those who have actually turbocharged their mazdas. I don't ask for decisions to be made for me, I seek information that will help in later decisions, In the end it's my time,blood,sweat,money, that will be going Into the build of my car, as it was for anyone else at a time where they were starting there own project...:gtfo:

sam,

this might help a little. with a BEGI mani and downpipe, this is how a t25 would look from its mounted postion looking down from the top.

found a turbo for good price If you are still intreasted in A SR turbo...check it out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-T...23695004QQrdZ1

KFJ, that is an awesome pic, I remember seeing it before. I searched through your past posts and can't find a pic of your complete install. How do you manage the compressor outlet as it points straight up into the hood? Wouldn't clocking it down like I want to do be easier to route to the IC?
Also, the routing of the water line was a concept I didn't grasp. For water TO/FROM the turbo, you simply splice the turbo into an existing line one-way line, not two lines. I now understand why the flow of the water doesn't matter.

I just looked through the garage trying to find a engine bay pic that really shows all the seperate lines and how they hook up. Check out sBrians engine bay here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/vb...do=view&id=678

I can clearly see how every line hooks up. The small red device attached to the front of the Valve Cover is the MBC, right?
The only lines I can't see are the oil and water lines to the turbo... but I can see the water lines here: on stripes car: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/vb...do=view&id=370
I know there are enough good shots of the oil lines out there... back to searching.

Rican, I emailed that guy from the eBay link this morning to get him to email me additional pictures. I might end up buying that one. Thanks!

And with that, I reach my 50th post!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

doN'T worry about the Outlet pointing to the hood, there's plenty of room in the engine bay to get away with that, Im planing to run a u-bend of the inlet to the itercooler...should work.

Samnavy,

Here is a bosch BOV on ebay. Should be able to snag this on the cheap. There is a blue one way check valve that you can JB weld to the outlet to prevent a leak at idle.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-VO...QQcmdZViewItem

Link to how to add the one way check valve: http://www.geocities.com/kilruf/bov.html

Tom

Nice catch Brgracer

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gredd...26868219QQrdZ1

Bid bid bid , try to win it...it's worth it, don't lose out on this discontinued bv , sam I would start bidding asap. and stay on top of it or you'll lose it