Oldturbguy

It’s cold enough today if I get flamed a little for my newbness no problem😀. Hope I’m at least in the most appropriate section.

So I’ve been lurking and reading and learning before this post attempting to not be an idiot and waste the valuable time fo all those willing to give their time and expertise. So here goes.

The good.
Bought a new to me 94 “C” package with only 82000 miles which has everything including cruise, power everything, AC, hardtop in good condition EVERYTHING WORKS great stuff for an old fart like me. Have added 15x8 11lb wheels and 205/50/15 HP tires. I’m ready to add to the fun. So this is what I have on hand.

94 donor car with 12100 miles, 5 sp, Torsen diff.
99 head/intake not installed
Garrett 2554 ball bearing turbo
Begi manifold
high performance clutch (knew details at one time) best I can remember it was a middle of the road item good for maybe 250 HP/ft lbs torque)
performance exhaust don’t know details til I take it off.

The bad
non separated gases Begi down pipe
begi fuel system using rising rate fuel pressure regulator

The plan
Hard Dog rollbar and Xida XL coilovers. Some chassis bracing not decided. Brake upgrade of some kind.
swap 5 sp and turbo kit to new car.
Add inter cooler and mega squirt

The goals

200 RWHP thereabouts.

the questions

Should I upgrade to separated gases down Pipes? I doubt my turbo housing is ported since my kit did not have the SG downpipe.
Megasqirt 2 or 3. Theres new 2 Pnp for 625 on fleabay. DIY has a refurbished 3 PNP for 900 or so.
Ignition I have no idea what I need for these goals.

Thanks!

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Get some injectors.
Do a coolant reroute.
MS3>MS2 if for no other reason than the quality of support available on the forum.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

If you're only aiming for ~200whp, why wouldn't you stick with what you have turbo wise? 2554r is perfect fo that range.

x_25

Divorced gasses downpipe is unneeded.

If it's a real, internal waste gate, garret 2554 you aren't going to have any boost creep issues.

Oldturbguy

Thanks everyone for the replies. Definitely staying with the 2554. Have heard about the coolant reroute honestly don’t understand the reason for it��. Good to know I don’t have to upgrade the downpipe.

For 200 HP injector size is not critical right? Reason I ask there are a set of RX7,s in the classifieds dk for sure but I believe 440 cc. Also I just learned high impedance vs low is not an issue as Megasquirt runs both so won’t have to worry about that.

So so at this point I’m going to start removing everything from the donor.

Im torn about the 99 head. I think I’m going to nix that for now.

So so here are my thoughts. Buy the Innovate wide band that the O2 sensor will screw into the stock O2 bung. Get that functional. Get the MS 3 PNP and get the car running on that all the while taking apart the donor. I don’t think I mentioned the new car is automatic. Hold the moans guys I know but I already had the donor with the 5 speed and Torsten diff so I had what I needed. And think about it. That engine has most likely never been over 6500 rpm as that is where the auto shifts. Only way to go over 6500 would be to put it in manual mode and just never upshift. Not likely the lady owner I bought it from did much of that. Not likely it’s seen much track or auto cross time either.

Anybody got any advice on the 5 speed to auto swap? I’m thinking pull the engine/5 speed out of the donor together but what about swapping the 5 speed for the auto? Leave the engine in new car, remove the auto and install the 5 speed? Or remove the engine/auto as a unit swap the transmissions with everything out and then reinstall engine/ 5 speed?

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

440cc will get you to 200whp, but you are much better off with a modern injector. It's an additional expense, but you'll have a much easier time tuning.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Flow Force 640’s

pull engines and transmissions. Swap. Do clutch and re-route and possibly turbo while engine is out.

AEM O2 sensor / controller that will talk to MS3 directly over CANBUS.

DNM

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

What DNM said.

Idle quality is better with newer tech injectors.

Oldturbguy

Can’t believe I missed the sticky about 6 steps to turbo your NA/NB.

So I will buy the MS3 install and start learning tuning. Followed by FF 640’s and more tuning.

I need to to start planning my intercooler and BOV.

What do you guys think about this IC?

https://rev9power.com/cooling/intercoolers/type-m-intercooler
Those universal intercooler install kits on Ebay any good. Looks like aluminum piping and silicon mating pieces. Opinions? Any and all advice appreciated.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

I can't help on the intercooler and piping but I recommend the cheap plastic Bosch bov you can find on ebay for under $35...Link below, but I bought a used one and paid $25, 0 complaints.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Blow-...QAAOxyuGFR0AYl

Oldturbguy

����

Oldturbguy

That was supposed to be a thumbs up on the BOV.

REV 9 lists the type M as bar and plate. Welds look good. Data looks good if reliable. Only .2-.5 pressure drop at my power goals.

Hey i I remembered another question I’ve been meaning to ask. I thought I read that the automatic had slightly lower compression ratio. Which seems good to me for turbo. Can anyone comment?

I’m thinking about running 10-12 lbs of boost. How do I tell what kind of actuator I have?

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

I understand that there is zero difference in the engine mechanicals Manual vs Automatic.

You will also be able to remove the transmission control module.

Or a new BOV with lifetime warranty This is the new P/N for the Bosch used by German auto makers.

x_25

In the US, the 1.6 Autos had lower compression pistons, lower over lap exhaust cam and a lower lift intake cam. The 1.8s are all the same.

I do not know about any other markets.

Oldturbguy

I came up with an answer to my question about the turbo actuator.

Install the turbo run the car and see what the boost gauge reads. Or buy a new actuator that I know at least the advertised numbers.

I have a copy of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and I will do a little reviewing starting tonight. Maybe I’ll just reread the whole thing. Just finishing up performance fuel injection systems by the DIYTUNE guys. Still learning.

Thanks for the link RE the BOV! Bosch OEM with lifetime warranty sounds good to me.

tenthe

iTrader: (1)

I'm also running the 710N Kayser/Bosch valve. I am using it as a recirculating bypass and it's been great. It's on the louder side, but not obnoxious. I enjoy the whoosh sound too much to do anything about it. Since it doesn't come with any instructions:




I'm also running a 2554R and I haven't had any issues with boost creep yet. Currently at around 9 PSI.

Oldturbguy

So I’m about to pull the trigger on engine management and widebandO2. Leaning towards AEM X series so as to be able to connect to the ECM via CANBUS. Need some advice on engine management.
I wIll be going with a 3 series MS I’m considering DIY vs MS labs. Can’t find a price on the MS3 Basic or where to order? Will the DIY connect to the AEM through CANbus or is that only the MS Labs?

going with FF 640 injectors. I know I’m still thinking in carburetor mode where bigger might not be better maybe worse but fuel injection is obviously not the same. Just to confirm these bigger injectors will run on a normally aspirated engine?

Trying to take the good advice here and do one thing at a time.

I currntly have have a Begi log style manifold with a 2.5 in down pipe. I said my initial goals were 200 RWHP but I am thinking bigger. Not 350 hp bigger but maybe 250.

So im rethinking exhaust. Like Kraken manifold with full 3 inch exhaust. I can’t see any downside to reduced back pressure, getting heat out, etc.

I am a little confused about the bottom mount Kraken manifold. It seems as the original top manifold is being d/c and then a new top mount is coming out?? Are there fitment issues with the bottom mount and a GT2554? What is the advantage of the bottom mount?

sorry for questions I prob hound be asking Kraken but I don’t do Facebook.

gooflophaze

I can't think of a reason why you'd want canbus. Your 94 didn't have it in the first place. Most of us here are megasquirted and we can help the most with that platform. Not saying AEM is bad.

You're not wrong on injector sizing being bigger is not always better - but the technology has come a long way in just the last 5 years. It's really a non-issue these days unless you're going crazy large, which 640's are not.

200 reliable is what you want to aim for before you build the engine (rods) to get to 250. Plenty of 250 builds in the forum - generally oil pump, rods, sometimes pistons.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Hold the phone

Gotta determine your goals. For 200whp you were close. For 250whp, you're going to be pushing a lot of heat out of that 2554 to get there, and even then it may not get there.

You're also well into rod bending territory since that little turbo will spool very quick and make a lot of sudden torque so you'll be likely to pop something. Perhaps simply saying "make as much power as makes sense out of the 2554" and you'll land somewhere between 200 and 250.

We sell the DIY MS3, order that at the same time as the Xida XLs and a Reroute and get 5% off the whole thing cuz then you'll be Club Orange.

Jesse99James

When I saw the title my immediate thought was START OVER!.

About twenty years ago I considered driving down to visit family and paying Mr. Bell to fabricate a turbo setup for my 1995 Escort GT (1.8 BP engine). I ended up building it myself and used a BEGI FMU but had constant issues with it binding internally even after rebuilding it multiple times. I also read many responses from him or somebody with the company standing in for him (could have been his daughter from what I now read) and I really didn't like the responses or attitude. Over the years I've read many horror stories and after buying a Miata, decided to stay FAR, far away. The previous owner of my MSM installed FM's Garret upgrade kit ten years ago and it's been reliable even though both owners took it on a track and autocross multiple times other than putting a damper on the fun because most turbo Miata/MSM start running hot after a few laps without cooling mods.

I didn't read much past the title so apologize if nothing is helpful other than I'd ditch the FMU(RRFPR) ASAP and find another more accurate fueling solution. Good luck!