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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-31-2012, 03:18 PM   #41
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I have manual windows and now there's a problem for it rolling up and down. I spray silicone lube but it is only temporary. The next few days I start to have the same problem and the silicone lube leaves a residue. -_- As to the foggy window. Is it possible for me to sand it with 1500 - 2000 grit and buffer it after with plastic polish ( I have a meguiars plastic polish and it worked well with my tail lights)
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:20 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by AdoboMiata View Post
Thanks for your help. I actually did order some from jegs the day I got the car. Not too sure if the cage could pass safety check Lol. I'm saving some cash to purchase a hard top from a friend of mine.
As long as it's SFI padding you should be good to go. Its hard to the touch but will save you from a nasty head injury.

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How about them eBay kits? Lol....
Not a great idea, they usually aren't exactly complete, and ebay manifolds are generally to be avoided, they crack real easy. If your budget minded, I'd suggest a begi kit as they tend to be a bit cheaper the the FM kits. First however, I would get a Megasquirt, build it, install it and tune the stock car, that way when you get the turbo hardware you'll have an easier time of it.

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Just letting everyone know, my miata is my daily car.
1.6 diffs have been know to break under stock power with aggressive driving, you'll need a 1.8 diff for additional power + daily driving duties.
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:18 PM   #43
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build a working 1.6 rear end out of two broken ones
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:41 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
As long as it's SFI padding you should be good to go. Its hard to the touch but will save you from a nasty head injury.



Not a great idea, they usually aren't exactly complete, and ebay manifolds are generally to be avoided, they crack real easy. If your budget minded, I'd suggest a begi kit as they tend to be a bit cheaper the the FM kits. First however, I would get a Megasquirt, build it, install it and tune the stock car, that way when you get the turbo hardware you'll have an easier time of it.



1.6 diffs have been know to break under stock power with aggressive driving, you'll need a 1.8 diff for additional power + daily driving duties.
I'd like to thank you all for the help.

Anyways, where could I get the megasquirt? Not too sure what it comes with but here's a website I got while researching http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...tpnp-c-40.html

What about converting the 1.6 diff to a Mazda Torsen Differential?
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:55 PM   #45
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the 1.6 and 1.8 rears are different in size, to change to a torsen requires the 1.8 setup, rear end, axles, driveshaft
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:17 PM   #46
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As far as the megasquirt goes there are a number of different options, there is a DIYPNP, a PNP, PNP Gen2 (Plug and Play), MS1, MS2, MS3 and MS3X.
You can get a DIY kit, or a rebuilt kit depending on how much you want to spend and what you want out of the unit. You could spend $250 on a diy MS1 kit or a used one in the classifieds (there is one up for sale for that price now I believe). If you want something more advanced then I'd skip straight to the MS3x, that'd be like >$500 if you get the DIY kit.
I don't really know much about the PNP stuff.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:20 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdoboMiata View Post
I have manual windows and now there's a problem for it rolling up and down. I spray silicone lube but it is only temporary. The next few days I start to have the same problem and the silicone lube leaves a residue. -_- As to the foggy window. Is it possible for me to sand it with 1500 - 2000 grit and buffer it after with plastic polish ( I have a meguiars plastic polish and it worked well with my tail lights)
Q-tips and/or pipe cleaners and 409 to clean the window tracks

have used Meguiars on my plastic with good results, never tried the XX-fine s-paper
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:55 PM   #48
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I went with the begi shanghai kit and it was pretty much complete delivered to your door. You still need to get engine management and a wideband but for the most part it's all in the box.

I still use the mani, turbo, dp, oil/coolant lines and fittings, but have upgraded pretty much everything else since.

The only thing that sucks about begi is the waiting............................
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:46 PM   #49
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Get the kit and the standalone.. by the time you are good on the standalone the kit will be there.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:45 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
As far as the megasquirt goes there are a number of different options, there is a DIYPNP, a PNP, PNP Gen2 (Plug and Play), MS1, MS2, MS3 and MS3X.
You can get a DIY kit, or a rebuilt kit depending on how much you want to spend and what you want out of the unit. You could spend $250 on a diy MS1 kit or a used one in the classifieds (there is one up for sale for that price now I believe). If you want something more advanced then I'd skip straight to the MS3x, that'd be like >$500 if you get the DIY kit.
I don't really know much about the PNP stuff.
damn... just seen the price. $799.99


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Q-tips and/or pipe cleaners and 409 to clean the window tracks

have used Meguiars on my plastic with good results, never tried the XX-fine s-paper
the fuzzy part on the window seal is broken into pieces. I'm not sure if I could change it, but it may be a problem?
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:48 AM   #51
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Quote:
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damn... just seen the price. $799.99
That's...quite cheap. Not as cheap as a DIY but a lot cheaper than most alternatives.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:07 PM   #52
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Yeah, the Hyda EMS costs like $1,600. But like I said, there are DIY kits you can get for much cheaper.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
That's...quite cheap. Not as cheap as a DIY but a lot cheaper than most alternatives.
Really? Sorry for whining. Lol.

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Yeah, the Hyda EMS costs like $1,600. But like I said, there are DIY kits you can get for much cheaper.
It's about the same price as the begi shanghai S kit
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:59 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdoboMiata View Post
Really? Sorry for whining. Lol.

It's about the same price as the begi shanghai S kit
Adaptronic 420 - 1300
Adaptronic 440 - 1400
Hydra - 1600
Xede - 1500
AEM - 1500
Some of those are NBs but still you get the point.

The shanghai kit doesnt come with an ecu.
Now that said you can get it working with bandaids but a standalone is the proper way.

On a side note you will need at the minimum an afr gauge ~ $250 new
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:10 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
Adaptronic 420 - 1300
Adaptronic 440 - 1400
Hydra - 1600
Xede - 1500
AEM - 1500
Some of those are NBs but still you get the point.

The shanghai kit doesnt come with an ecu.
Now that said you can get it working with bandaids but a standalone is the proper way.

On a side note you will need at the minimum an afr gauge ~ $250 new
thanks, I'll look more into it
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:35 AM   #56
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So here's the rear bumper. Not sure what brand..
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:05 AM   #57
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From the pic it looks stock with a cutout that the PO did when he installed dual exhaust.

Take pic/look at the cut, is it sharp? If yes, it's definitely cut by the PO.
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:49 AM   #58
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Yup yup. That's oem. Pointless copy if it's not.
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:34 PM   #59
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Lol, I just found out it is. My miata has a new problem. Once I start the car, it idles for a min or two then the idle starts dropping slowly and dies out. While driving I have to rev the car a bit so it doesn't die out. Any way to fix this? Oil level is fine, spark plugs are still good, It has gas (lol), vaccum lines look fine. any ideas?

This started happening ever since I removed the battery and plugged it back in.
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Old 02-06-2012, 05:38 PM   #60
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datalog and tune if its on megasquirt or any standalone
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