DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Oil cooler?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-10-2009, 03:49 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default Oil cooler?

I am still collecting parts to Turbo my NA, and saving for megasquirt..... and i noticed it seems there is not alot of info on oil coolers in this forum. i see FM sells them, but they dont seem to be very common.
What is your opinion of them.

I know that just about Every saab from present to roughly 1978 had some form of oil cooler, and they were anywhere from 285hp to 120 hp... so i assume it is nessesary!
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 03:55 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
thymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 822
Total Cats: -2
Default

I've got one, nice quality. I'm going to fab some protection for it though, kinda low.
thymer is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 03:59 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

i understand that though because judging by your turbo and injector size your car is VERY FAST....
im thinking on a somewhat lower level... maybe 240whp or less with a journal bearing turbo
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 04:04 PM
  #4  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,494
Total Cats: 4,080
Default

the folks sitting pretty at 230-250rwhp and doing track days without them are still running strong...
Braineack is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 04:32 PM
  #5  
Former Vendor
 
Stephanie Turner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bell Tuning & Performance
Posts: 1,337
Total Cats: -99
Default

We have a good oil cooler done. Just not the "kit" to go with it.
BEGi - - Front Page News - oil_coolers

Stephanie
Stephanie Turner is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 04:43 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Braineack
the folks sitting pretty at 230-250rwhp and doing track days without them are still running strong...
ok, thats good to know.... i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to get my car tuned only to replace the turbo and/or engine before the next oil change!
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 05:38 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
thymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 822
Total Cats: -2
Default

Originally Posted by Aero91
ok, thats good to know.... i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to get my car tuned only to replace the turbo and/or engine before the next oil change!
Oil temp gauge is always a safe bet. That will tell you when you need a cooler.
thymer is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 06:42 PM
  #8  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,192
Total Cats: 1,136
Default

Cheap too. Only a couple wires for the gauge and one for the sensor. Drill and tap your drain plug next time you change your oil for the easiest install.
curly is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:21 PM
  #9  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by curly
Cheap too. Only a couple wires for the gauge and one for the sensor. Drill and tap your drain plug next time you change your oil for the easiest install.
Thats actually a really good idea... i have never heard of people putting the temp sensor in the drain plug, but it would be easily removable if needed.. ect..

Last edited by Aero91; 12-10-2009 at 08:45 PM. Reason: stupid
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:26 PM
  #10  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,192
Total Cats: 1,136
Default

ZOMG, STFU!

*
It's called an NPT plug, I have one in there now after putting the sensor in the sandwich plate post cooler. Neither the plug or sensor ever leaked with a little teflon goo. A spade connector 2" from the sensor makes oil changes easier.
*

If you're "Not" comment was just referring to the obviousness and commonality of my suggestion and not it's supposed stupidness, ignore everything between the asterisks.
curly is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:45 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

WTF, ohhh i was adding another sentance and got sidetracked...... sorry, no i really like that setup, i think im going to employ it myself now
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 09:10 PM
  #12  
Elite Member
 
dustinb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,320
Total Cats: 13
Default

Originally Posted by thymer
Oil temp gauge is always a safe bet. That will tell you when you need a cooler.
At what temp would you consider it's time to get a cooler? My oil temps have gone over 230 before and I thought that might be a bit excessive.
dustinb is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 09:14 PM
  #13  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Aero91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

another thing to consider is the use of an oil thermostat..... while you dont want your oil hot, it doesnt work very well when its cold either so a thermostat would definatly be nessesary
Aero91 is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 09:19 PM
  #14  
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
SKMetalworks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Renton Washington
Posts: 1,731
Total Cats: 4
Default

Originally Posted by Aero91
another thing to consider is the use of an oil thermostat..... while you dont want your oil hot, it doesnt work very well when its cold either so a thermostat would definatly be nessesary
+1, You can overcool your oil and it screws with your viscosity.
SKMetalworks is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 09:30 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
thymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 822
Total Cats: -2
Default

Originally Posted by dustinb
At what temp would you consider it's time to get a cooler? My oil temps have gone over 230 before and I thought that might be a bit excessive.
Depends on who you talk to but over 230 is getting a bit toasty.
thymer is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:17 PM
  #16  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

If you're oil temps are above 250*, then you need an oil cooler. Over 290*, you need to shut the car down.

/thread
hustler is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:43 PM
  #17  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,192
Total Cats: 1,136
Default

Even in 30* weather without a thermostat I have no problem making my oil temp gauge just barely register, which is 140*. Is that considered too hot or too cold?
curly is offline  
Old 12-10-2009, 10:51 PM
  #18  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
sicklyscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 226
Total Cats: 1
Default

That's on the cool side
sicklyscott is offline  
Old 12-11-2009, 08:52 AM
  #19  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,486
Total Cats: 372
Default

Way too cold. You need oil temps to be over 212F. What you're looking for a is stabilized oil temp above that. Oil weight and quality/type also enter into the equation. I've said it before, but I know several production racers that have done multiple seasons running minimum 3 hour races with 300F+ oil temps (the original Mobil 1) on LS engines- no failures. Not to say that's an ideal temp, but with a good oil it's not going to blow up your engine. Those LS engines made good power at that oil temp.

To the OP- there's a load of oil cooler info on this site, so I'm not sure what you searched for. Try oil cooler.
m2cupcar is offline  
Old 12-11-2009, 09:44 AM
  #20  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Default

Originally Posted by m2cupcar
Way too cold. You need oil temps to be over 212F. What you're looking for a is stabilized oil temp above that. Oil weight and quality/type also enter into the equation. I've said it before, but I know several production racers that have done multiple seasons running minimum 3 hour races with 300F+ oil temps (the original Mobil 1) on LS engines- no failures. Not to say that's an ideal temp, but with a good oil it's not going to blow up your engine. Those LS engines made good power at that oil temp.

To the OP- there's a load of oil cooler info on this site, so I'm not sure what you searched for. Try oil cooler.
Well, 300* is ok if the viscosity index is so incredibly badass that it can function there, but I can't think of an oil aside from Redline 5w30 or Motul r300 (or whatever) that hold viscosity there.
hustler is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nbdooey
Miata parts for sale/trade
9
08-30-2017 09:50 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM
Aroundcorner
Miata parts for sale/trade
2
10-01-2015 03:20 PM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
09-30-2015 02:44 PM



Quick Reply: Oil cooler?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:35 PM.