Seriously, different ppl will say different things, use an adaptor, use a filter relocation kit, oil cooler, so on...

Anyone here have pictures of how they tapped/drilled the oil pan, hooked
up an NPT and connected an oil line that runs to the turbo? I'm aiming for this
method unless anyone has a better DIY method...

Also i got a oil cooler, U pipe with fins, that i wanna install too, should this go where the oil goes into the turbo or should it be after the oil comes out of the turbo?

 

half inch npt pipe tap, use a barb fitting... search around braineak has some posts with where he put his... look at his DIY thread

 

click my FAQ for more in depth talk of it.

 

wow, lol... that was quick, i was looking at different threads to find you...

 

did you put some more of that epoxy on the inside of the pan?
actually let me check out the FAQ and pay more attention this time...

 

Coat the threads in JB weld then screw in the fitting. Apply more to the exposed threads of the fitting to create a seal to the pan.

the picture above is the extreme

 

I got a little confused reading the FAQ...

i always assumed there would be a nut inside where the screw goes, that way it would sandwich the oilpan from inside and outside...
i'll need a good source for oil lines now, i've read some article where
a guy was making his own lines from some tube (polythyrene)(sp?) and
covered them with braided steel...

 

No nut (Hence the JB Weld). You drill without removing the pan, just oil.

Don't worry, it's been done this way since 1990.

Yes you can use stainless steel lines instead of slip on fittings. Same idea applys, use a -10AN SS line & fitting instead of a 5/8" silicone hose & fittings.

 

I can get you the required oil lines. I have a post in the Group Discount section of the for sale section. Send me a PM if I can be of any assistance.
-Michael-

 

kool... PM'd

 

is the jbweld 100% needed?

 

that or Thredlock or permaseal or something. Do you really want to risk an oil leak?

 

Will silicone work? like rtv?

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...hlight=tap+pan

Post # 25 shows pictures of my setup. You can see the oil feed coming off the block, and the oil drain going to the pan.

This is on a 1.6 engine. 1.8s don't have the oil feed location on the side of the block, so you'll need either a filter relocation kit, and oil cooler adaptor, or a tee for the pressure sensor location.

 

yes. but I personally wanted something to bond the fitting to the pan, not just seal the threads. added insurance i guess. although after cranking down on that thing, that sucker ain't going anywhere.

 

Would anyone got photos of the actual drilling proccess. How do you land your hand drill with a long enough drill bit with all the parts in your way? that's with out taking your oil pan off the car!

 

Here is a question. Has anyone ever removed the fitting from the oil pan to changed it? I was thinking of going to an -10AN fitting but I already have the 5/8" barb installed with JB weld. I was thining of just throwing a wrench on it and giving it a go.

 

The biggest problem you will have is finding a 45/64" bit and 1/2" NPT tap. I finally ordered mine online after not finding one locally. Unfortunately, every 45'64" bit I found was in 1/2" shank. Seemed like a good excuse to buy a 1/2" drill. I've got a new Black and Decker turbo/lightening/whatever.

If you're not familiar with how much bigger a 1/2" drill is than a 3/8" drill, then hope you don't have PS or A/C. This new B&D is a monster.

My I didn't use JBWeld on my first tap of 3/8NPT with no problems. My new 1/2NPT barb fits in there very snug and I'll wait on the JBWeld. No need to waste the time if it seals tight. If I verify that it's leaking, which should be the first time I drive it, then a little SimpleGreen and a final wipe with mineral spirits should clean it up enough to JBWeld it.

 

sam why didnt you ask me....ive sent my drill bit and 1/2" tap out to many members.

 

I unbolted the steering rack from the frame and let it hang down by the tie rods. This gave me plenty of space to get a drill and tap in there. I did this at the same time that the hydraulic lines were disconnected for replacement and heat-sleeving. They're not hard to remove, and I'd probably do it this way again.

Having the A/C compressor out of the way would also help if your car has A/C.

Finally, I used a 3/8 NPT tap and fittings, rather than 1/2", to go with the -10AN hose I use for the drain. It's been six months now and I've had no problems with oil drainage. Had the intercooler pipes open over the weekend, and still no oil film at all in the pipes.