Word. Do it in the car. It will take you way less than an hour. Plus with the pan in the car you can check your clearances around the fittings.

Wrap the drill bit with tape like described above. This is a very good idea. I personally would drill a pilot hole to keep the bit from walking. If the bit is not perfectly straight with the pan surface (90 degs) do not worry because you can fix that when you run the tap into the hole.

Believe me I agonized about this too, but after I did it I realized I was worrying for nothing. Be careful, go slow, but it's easy. Read my installation thread in the link below.

I do not think the Mustang punch technique described above will work here. I'll bet the Mustang pan is a bent sheet metal unit. The Miata pan is cast aluminum. I would not try it myself.

 

yeah, I don't think you can center punch a hole....

the center punch's purpose is to make a small divot in the surface you're drilling so the tip of the drill bit doesn't walk off from its location before it starts making its own hole.
as a machinist, I would suggest using a center punch to help locate your drill, but not to do the drilling.

 

http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...ctions_SSM.pdf
Maybe this will help. Page 8-9.

 

Aw come on, whats wrong with hitting a punch with a large hammer on a cast aluminum pan? It might make a hole, but as to what size or shape is anyones guess.

 

Good point

 

you live and learn... i ran the tap too far through today so the drain fits slightly loose. looks like i will be using a lot of teflon tape and maybe some JB

 

Try another fitting if they're not too expensive. You might find one that isn't threaded as much and would fit tighter.

 

yeah right now i have a plug in there because im not turboing for another week or 2. I just looked at the 3/8 to barb fittings i have for the oil drain and it looks like it'll fit nicer.

 

Just use some metal epoxy (like JB weld) and thread it into place and it will be fine.

 

i put silicone on the theads and snugged it, it's been fine for years. I worried that if i used jb weld and it developed a problem i'd be screwed. Many oems use silicone as oil pan sealant (as on miatas) so i figured this should hold ok.

 

Oil pan in the car is one of the few things I havent actually done on my car, but I didnt think it would really be that bad..lifting the engine up and splitting the trans? Damn. I forgot that the rear main seal was bolted in nicely in a rather ingenious way; though one that makes it impossible to take the pan off without the engine out.

I feel kinda dumb now, just recently joining and discussing a topic that was figured out long ago. Forgive me, but drilling an oil pan isnt something I find particularly attractive. I guess theres not much of a choice though.

 

Yeah OK no worries then

 

yes I know a lot of people say its easyish to do with the engine in the car but I'm really glad I had mine out.

 

Has anyone ever tried flushing the oil shavings from the newly drilled hole? Of course with the car leaning towards the drain hole and the drain plug out. Probably get more out than with just draining the oil, which is still going to leave a sticky film on the pan. I mean using something thin, maybe ATF or just some cheap mineral spirits. Or maybe thats common practice. Im so glad I did mine with the engine out though. It was a nightmare to get the pan off even having easy access. That factory sealant is a BITCH to get off. My windage tray got all bent up, but hammered back into shape easily enough. No leaks yet after 1500 miles.

 

When I drilled I drained all oil afterwards then filled it up and drained it again. Filtered the oil to remove any thing in it then put the oil back in and repeated that till no more shavings came out after draining. Then I filled it with fresh oil. Friend of mine said I better use a magnetic oil plug to catch any more shavings that might be left but don't think he knew it was an aluminum pan. I did end up using one anyway just to catch anything else that might be in the pan. Never can be to safe.