Ok so I'm not sure what to do....
11-24-2009, 12:13 PM
#21
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Location: Fort Myers, Floriduh
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Wow... Cut the guy just a little slack maybe? 
1.6 vs. 1.8 is almost meaningless. Yeah, it's easier to start with a 1.8 car since you get the stronger diff and the better electronics, but hey, you've got what you've got. Mine's a 1.6 as well.
One school of thought, if the engine is still running well, would be to just turbo it and see if it fails. Worst-case you end up building a new engine.
Too many different options for us to list insofar as which turbo to run. I'm using a tiny little TD04H-15G that came as part of a Greddy kit. Some folks are Garrett-worshippers (and even there, you've got everything from 2554s to GT30s and beyond) while others are jumping on the Chinacharger bandwagon.
Let's forget about which turbo to run for the moment. How's the car itself doing?
Where in Ft. Myers?
1.6 vs. 1.8 is almost meaningless. Yeah, it's easier to start with a 1.8 car since you get the stronger diff and the better electronics, but hey, you've got what you've got. Mine's a 1.6 as well.
One school of thought, if the engine is still running well, would be to just turbo it and see if it fails. Worst-case you end up building a new engine.
Too many different options for us to list insofar as which turbo to run. I'm using a tiny little TD04H-15G that came as part of a Greddy kit. Some folks are Garrett-worshippers (and even there, you've got everything from 2554s to GT30s and beyond) while others are jumping on the Chinacharger bandwagon.
Let's forget about which turbo to run for the moment. How's the car itself doing?
Where in Ft. Myers?
And I live more or less in Lehigh Acres, but Ft Myers is better known, so I put that in my location instead.
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11-26-2009, 08:05 AM
#23
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I can give you my $0.05 worth....
I started with a stock internals 1.6 long nose. Added TD04-15G, 1.8 injectors, Greddy EManage Blue, RX7 Series IV IC mounted as FMIC. Did the install myself with help from friends. Olderguy's O2 clamp. Got the initial base tune from wherever the hell the EManage maps are stored on here - someone emailed them to me - I can't remember who. Downloaded EManage tool software to my laptop. Installed it all, took it to a dyno tuner who got the base tune close to right (EManage kept data buffering and crashing the laptop) so when I went home I spoke to the tuner, did some reading, and tweaked the fuel map myself, probably with some advice from here. Never looked back - power isn't HUUUUUGGGEEEEEEE!!!!! but now with stock internals and upgraded cams (HKS264 intake and reground exhaust) it's probably making between 120 kW and 140 kW at the wheels on about 8lbs of boost. Buckets of fun on boost, brilliant on hills, overtaking and freeway driving, and perfectly driveable around town off boost - like it's a factory car with a slightly bigger engine.
Cost me all up around $5K-$6KAUD, including brake disc upgrade, diff upgrade, clutch upgrade, custom SS pipework and exhaust (done by a good mate), gauges, and miscellaneous other requirements, having paid $1300 for the original kit.
If I had to add anything now, it would probably be the BEGI FPR which I bought 2nd hand here, just to give me a bit more buffer with the fuelling - leaning out is bad m'kay.... and while it doesn't now, I just don't want it to.
Just do your reading - and then ask specific questions - it's hard starting out - feels like a minefield, but be specific - your first question was a bit of a 'catch-all' and probably hard to answer cause every setup here is different.
I started with a stock internals 1.6 long nose. Added TD04-15G, 1.8 injectors, Greddy EManage Blue, RX7 Series IV IC mounted as FMIC. Did the install myself with help from friends. Olderguy's O2 clamp. Got the initial base tune from wherever the hell the EManage maps are stored on here - someone emailed them to me - I can't remember who. Downloaded EManage tool software to my laptop. Installed it all, took it to a dyno tuner who got the base tune close to right (EManage kept data buffering and crashing the laptop) so when I went home I spoke to the tuner, did some reading, and tweaked the fuel map myself, probably with some advice from here. Never looked back - power isn't HUUUUUGGGEEEEEEE!!!!! but now with stock internals and upgraded cams (HKS264 intake and reground exhaust) it's probably making between 120 kW and 140 kW at the wheels on about 8lbs of boost. Buckets of fun on boost, brilliant on hills, overtaking and freeway driving, and perfectly driveable around town off boost - like it's a factory car with a slightly bigger engine.
Cost me all up around $5K-$6KAUD, including brake disc upgrade, diff upgrade, clutch upgrade, custom SS pipework and exhaust (done by a good mate), gauges, and miscellaneous other requirements, having paid $1300 for the original kit.
If I had to add anything now, it would probably be the BEGI FPR which I bought 2nd hand here, just to give me a bit more buffer with the fuelling - leaning out is bad m'kay.... and while it doesn't now, I just don't want it to.
Just do your reading - and then ask specific questions - it's hard starting out - feels like a minefield, but be specific - your first question was a bit of a 'catch-all' and probably hard to answer cause every setup here is different.
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12-02-2009, 08:29 PM
#26
Oh, and be sure that "turbo not hit block". That, again, is a good thing on Chinese Domestic Market, or CDM parts.
OK, that's a bit of a joke.
Just take a bit of time, breeze around the other threads. I find that going through the build threads shows the good (and mistakes) of a DIY build. Yes, most of us will post up and admit that their decision was wrong, they bought the wrong part, etc. You can learn as much from seeing what others did wrong as what they did right. It just doesn't cost you anything.
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12-02-2009, 10:25 PM
#27
+1 ilovetacotaco
By the way, I have the tacotaco miata manifold, but with a T3 flange, I ended using a different mani as it was going to be installed in a Protege, it is too far out. So I may be selling it...
By the way, I have the tacotaco miata manifold, but with a T3 flange, I ended using a different mani as it was going to be installed in a Protege, it is too far out. So I may be selling it...
Last edited by mazpr; 12-02-2009 at 10:25 PM. Reason: JDMPOWELOL
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12-08-2009, 07:52 AM
#28
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If it were my project with the goals you stated I would find a complete engine from a 2004 Mazdaspeed. It would give you the extra displacement, it would be a fresh engine, it would have a turbo on it, and it would cost less overall than building an engine and adding a turbo.
As long as your power goal dosent exceed 250 or so.
As long as your power goal dosent exceed 250 or so.
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12-08-2009, 08:06 AM
#29
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Make sure your doing more then just a turbo. If the car has 200k on the stock shocks and bushings. I didnt read the whole thread so maybe you already talked about it but if not its something to think about it
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12-08-2009, 07:04 PM
#30
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Oh no, I'm not just going to start moding it from the get go. I've learned the whole maintenance before mod saying. I'm just trying to see what everyone else's set ups are like, to give me an idea of how I want to go about moding mine, when the time comes.
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12-08-2009, 08:04 PM
#31
Surprisingly you've received none of the usual abuse we tend to give rookies here. As its been said the suggestion given was actually very useful and IMO good advice.
Its been said but, read around and get the feel for the MO of the forum. Threads are great, and lots of information can be found on the stickies, as well as archived area. A wealth of knowledge and humor here once you understand the overall mentality. Don't let certain things you see scare you off as you'll soon find 99.9% is in jest, and you'll soon figure
out that the knowledge/information found here is incredible.
The biggest annoyance for most is when a new member comes on and very excitedly asks a very vague or very common question without first browsing the site a bit to reveal the answer. Although the question may seem very specific, simple, and new to you the fact is that almost all of the questions/scenarios/options you're considering have been discussed and at length. And thus the reason for some jabs being thrown.
I say this all first hand, I experienced it and am thankful and grateful for this forum and its members.
THAT SAID............ The advice given really is pretty dead on. Having gone through a 1.6/1.8 swap myself, now owning a factory 1.8, and seeing the great success many are having on 1.6s; I would most certainly take work with what you have.
I'd make sure the motor is up to par so you don't waste time on a lazy engine. Then
I would get yourself a budget setup for now, either knockoff parts or even better used parts (turbo, mani, dp, IC). If budget allows spring for a Megasquirt and some 460injectors as to avoid dealing with bandaids and when/if you decide for more power you'll want/need to go this route anyway. Keep boost relatively low, and enjoy it for a bit. At 6-8lbs the difference over stock power is VERY enjoyable. Boost is addicting, and you will likely want more. But this will MORE than allow you to enjoy and flex the car some as you develop an understanding of what you want, and what you need to get there.
At that point, you can be fortunate enough to have a better idea of where you want to be, build a motor/setup to what you want, AND have a running boosted Miata while you do this!
As mentioned, do not focus only on power. Make sure you take the time to go over the car. While 200k miles is not near the end of a Miata's lifespan, you will want to replace (upgrade) things. You bought the car for $700, you don't need much more to get boosted, so this should allow for the rest of the car to be brought up to date.
And I can't believe I took the time to sit and write this...you better appreciate it or I'll pay hustler the usual $1.29 fee to come over there and skull **** your granny with his enormous muscular body and abnormally small *****.
Its been said but, read around and get the feel for the MO of the forum. Threads are great, and lots of information can be found on the stickies, as well as archived area. A wealth of knowledge and humor here once you understand the overall mentality. Don't let certain things you see scare you off as you'll soon find 99.9% is in jest, and you'll soon figure
out that the knowledge/information found here is incredible.
The biggest annoyance for most is when a new member comes on and very excitedly asks a very vague or very common question without first browsing the site a bit to reveal the answer. Although the question may seem very specific, simple, and new to you the fact is that almost all of the questions/scenarios/options you're considering have been discussed and at length. And thus the reason for some jabs being thrown.
I say this all first hand, I experienced it and am thankful and grateful for this forum and its members.
THAT SAID............ The advice given really is pretty dead on. Having gone through a 1.6/1.8 swap myself, now owning a factory 1.8, and seeing the great success many are having on 1.6s; I would most certainly take work with what you have.
I'd make sure the motor is up to par so you don't waste time on a lazy engine. Then
I would get yourself a budget setup for now, either knockoff parts or even better used parts (turbo, mani, dp, IC). If budget allows spring for a Megasquirt and some 460injectors as to avoid dealing with bandaids and when/if you decide for more power you'll want/need to go this route anyway. Keep boost relatively low, and enjoy it for a bit. At 6-8lbs the difference over stock power is VERY enjoyable. Boost is addicting, and you will likely want more. But this will MORE than allow you to enjoy and flex the car some as you develop an understanding of what you want, and what you need to get there.
At that point, you can be fortunate enough to have a better idea of where you want to be, build a motor/setup to what you want, AND have a running boosted Miata while you do this!
As mentioned, do not focus only on power. Make sure you take the time to go over the car. While 200k miles is not near the end of a Miata's lifespan, you will want to replace (upgrade) things. You bought the car for $700, you don't need much more to get boosted, so this should allow for the rest of the car to be brought up to date.
And I can't believe I took the time to sit and write this...you better appreciate it or I'll pay hustler the usual $1.29 fee to come over there and skull **** your granny with his enormous muscular body and abnormally small *****.
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12-09-2009, 12:47 PM
#32
The best setup for most people who want a faster more fun to drive but still reliable drivable car is to just stick a gt25 on the stock motor. Now if you have a shortnose crank i would consider doing a 1.8 swap, if not then i believe there is someone on this forum selling a really nice 304 stainless manifold and down pipe for the 1.6 that would be a great place to start. you would need a clutch a mega squirt some injectors and maybe a walbro 255 as for the intercooler i wont use anything but a precision on my car because i have had great success with them in the past but im sure about anything will work for such a small setup. although you will spend a little more money going with the stainless manifold and downpipe and a garret turbo over a china charger you will have top notch quality parts that will last a long time. a gt25 with a good intercooler on a stock 1.6 should not have trouble making enough power to push the limits of the stock shortblock components. you could prolly get into the 220-240hp range for under 5 grand. If you pay someone to do your work the price will be much much higher.
I have not turboed my miata yet but i have assembled tons of turbo kits on other cars mostly mustangs and mitsubishis. My miata made over 170whp with less then 400bucks in upgrades and lasted just long enough for me to get bored with it, it burnt a hole in a valve making 191whp with literally no mods but a nitrous kit and lack of an ac ps belt.
I have not turboed my miata yet but i have assembled tons of turbo kits on other cars mostly mustangs and mitsubishis. My miata made over 170whp with less then 400bucks in upgrades and lasted just long enough for me to get bored with it, it burnt a hole in a valve making 191whp with literally no mods but a nitrous kit and lack of an ac ps belt.
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12-09-2009, 02:01 PM
#33
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I'm not doing anything to the engine that's in it currently, because I would like to drive it around for a while. I want to get a second block for whatever route I go. And build it on the side, so in case I run out of money, the car is still usable.
I'd like to build the engine the first time. So I don't have to worry about the internals as much as I would, if I left them stock. So I'm going to try not to cheap out when I start getting parts together.
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12-09-2009, 08:24 PM
#35
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copy my set-up if you want an sti/135/evo/f360 substitute. I had a choice of buying a $40k sportscar, or running a crappy daily and an insane miata. I chose wisely. My friends and girls don't think I'm cool, but your GF does.
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