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Pictures of my rod for Hustler
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Cause he inspired me to do this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361244479 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361244479 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361244479 As usual my welder/welding skills let me down the most, however I believe them to be strong enough. I might finish them up a bit more later. I stopped here cause I need to look at turnbuckles at Home Depot and find out how I wanna cut/weld the two ends together to meet up with the turnbuckle hardware. Hopefully I'll have it finished up tomorrow. |
Awesome, I need a welder of sorts.
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"Finished" version. Still need to do the final welding. Unfortunately that means welding in the engine bay and I'm a little scared of that. I have a drop cloth that should work. It's heavy duty canvas, hopefully it won't catch fire. I'm just going to tack it, then finish weld off the car.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361290057 |
can you post a side profile shot if/when possible? looking down at it doesn't really show much
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Like so? Sorry for the heat shield reflection. You can just barely see the bolt I'll be using, just to the right of the oil line.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361290851 |
do you have no prop valve, or is it in cabin?
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It's in the cabin, by the shifter.
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Finished up the welding. I got lucky, shit almost burned down.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361295087 Rarely am I proud of my welding, but I was of this one. Of course this is on the bottom and no one will see it :( https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361295087 Finished product, for real this time. I'm off to the hardware store to get the turn buckle. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361295087 |
cool beans. was it starting to stress/crack or is this a precaution thing?
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Looks good.
So that's two pieces of bar stock and one piece of tube, all stainless? Stainless turn buckle? Any reason the two mount points are not on the same plane? |
So how sad is it that i totally thought you were talking about the license plate heat shield until i read the comments.
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Me too. Ah, well.
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I dig the heat shield. I must admit I looked over the pictures and I have yet to figure out what it exactly accomplishes by designing it like that. Care to explain a little more?
Thanks, |
Trying to prevent manifold cracks/stud issues by providing alternate support for the weight of the turbo/downpipe/etc.
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almost forgot: opened this thread expecting nudes
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It appears not to be attached to anything to support the turbo. Is there another part still required to be installed or something I am not understanding?
Your welds look pretty good! Thanks for your time. |
Originally Posted by JamesS
(Post 980737)
It appears not to be attached to anything to support the turbo. Is there another part still required to be installed or something I am not understanding?
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 980645)
I'm off to the hardware store to get the turn buckle.
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Sorry guys! My mistake, I saw the words "finished product" and thought it was done. Look forward to seeing the results.
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I see all sorts of fail here.
Like was hinted already. You need more to that brace to make it anywhere near stiff enough to do anything. If you can push down on that corner where you plan to bolt your turnbuckle with your body weight and you can feel it move (it will as-is unless you're a fairy), then it won't work. Orrrr if you twang it with a hammer and it goes TWWAANNNGGGBHHHMMMMMMMMM it wont' work. It needs to be THUD. Orrrr if would you stand under your engine if you use the turn buckle hole as a engine lift point? 3 points make me happy. Make it like Lars'. SOrry if I sound harsh. Welds look good, I'm all for DIY. Do log manifolds crack? Huster's didn't crack cause of weight hanging off the cylinder head. I was supposed to ship it back to him today but it's his birthday so he'll have to wait til tomorrow. |
needs to be triangulated so its an actual crane, instead of hanging off the bolts bending them in the process
right? |
kinda sorta.
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last night i had a dream that i bought that 2560 you were selling a long time ago. in the box it looked like a GT55, but it was a 2560 when i picked it up.
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Originally Posted by JamesS
(Post 980737)
It appears not to be attached to anything to support the turbo. Is there another part still required to be installed or something I am not understanding?
Your welds look pretty good! Thanks for your time. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361305542
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 980753)
needs to be triangulated so its an actual crane, instead of hanging off the bolts bending them in the process
right?
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 980758)
kinda sorta.
I can lean pretty hard on it actually. It's not really for the manifold at all, it's more for the studs. I'm doing this and a DIY version of FM's DP brace. I could do a 3rd strut to one of the valve cover bolts. Would that be preferable? The two current points aren't in the same plane cause there wasn't a bolt in the back to use. It's a freestyle crane. Honestly, if this doesn't do much of anything I'm ok with it, I've spent all of $0 and in the process stumbled upon settings for my welder that work amazingly. |
You must triangulate for it to work. Someone, alert the engineer crew!!!
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Finished product:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361418086 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361418086 Changed the 1/4-20 bolt to a M8 bolt with a welded nut, and added my attachment. I don't really like the way it attaches. It's current relying on tension to stay tight, and it's doing that, but I may soon add either left/right handed threads for easier adjustment, or some locks nuts. For all the triangulate people, I hear ya, and I may soon do that, maybe to one of the manifold studs? But for now, I assure you, it's strong. Without it bolted to the turbo, I could bounce on it more than I could comfortably bounce on a fender without it bending. |
It's not about strength, it's about resonance and making it less of a tuning fork.
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How old is this thread this is the first I have seen it.
Yeah Tim is right, run a 3rd rod down to the lowest manifold stud you can get to. This is how I did mine but I have a longtube manifold and the brace is loaded differently. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360148792 See how this one has it triangulated vertically not just horizontally. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361419502 Do this and then win. http://s3.postimage.org/rkruvhd9v/BC...1774_00000.jpg Dann |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 981475)
It's not about strength, it's about resonance and making it less of a tuning fork.
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 981477)
How old is this thread this is the first I have seen it.
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Cool.
I probably ninja'd you with those pics sorry. Dann |
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OEM turbo BP's (others as well) support with a little L bracket from the bottom, bolting into into bosses in the block and turbo. They also keep the turbo tighter to the block with a downward outlet manifold.
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hmm, bottom brace actually looks like an even better idea
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Nitro, the one on your setup looks like it might do more harm than good. Its good to let the manifold move and if you try to lock it down in the wrong directions you end up actually putting more stress into it than if you just let it move around a bit as it heat cycles.
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When I brace my manifolds, I like to prevent them from expanding so they crack from that added stress of my engineering instead of from natural causes.
Kinda like how I like to brace my downpipes: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361462221 |
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Hmm, I like the simplicity and symmetry of Tim's picture. The more I look at mine, the more it's asymmetry bugs me. Adding the third member like Dann suggested would bug me even more. I took these shots yesterday:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361466952 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361466952 I may redesign and start over. I found some great settings on my welder half way through anyways. |
Why not triangulate using the 2 middle bolts or something, so its not loopy?
Also the 3rd "leg" is a very good idea and would make your crane actually work, as discussed. |
How about nixing the turn buckle all together and actually making it with a cable. Since this should only ever be loaded in tension you can use the cable as the 3rd member You'll just have to give its own support that sticks up randomly and close to the hood. Then if for some reason your manifold shape naturally moved upwards on heating it could.
Note this requires a cable with good high temp heat properties like 321 stainless or 316Ti, I'd worry about carbon steel failing from corrosion in a very short time since it has a high surface area to volume ratio and is going to be somewhere hot. |
why not just run two rods, one on each of the top nuts, straight ot the cross-bars... ezpz.
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Scott, I never know if you're being helpful. I think when you post MS paint pics you're actually being helpful.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 981616)
How about nixing the turn buckle all together and actually making it with a cable. Since this should only ever be loaded in tension you can use the cable as the 3rd member You'll just have to give its own support that sticks up randomly and close to the hood. Then if for some reason your manifold shape naturally moved upwards on heating it could.
Note this requires a cable with good high temp heat properties like 321 stainless or 316Ti, I'd worry about carbon steel failing from corrosion in a very short time since it has a high surface area to volume ratio and is going to be somewhere hot. |
True, but if you pre-load it with enough tension you can stop the net force reversal from the vibration and reduce/eliminate the fatigue wear.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 981619)
Scott, I never know if you're being helpful. I think when you post MS paint pics you're actually being helpful.
okay then: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361468326 |
leafy.....:facepalm:
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Real question:
Make the triangle symmetrical like Tim's picture, or center it over the part of the turbine housing I'm bolting it to (like the current setup)? |
Add some bracing to the downpipe too!
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I'm making a Bbundy/FM DP brace, I've got the clamp, I'm thinking about widening it to fit a strip of metal so I don't bend my DP like Bbundy, and I'll either fab or buy FM's bracket. It's a complicated bend/shape in a shitty location, so it might be worth the $25.
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no, asshole. you could do it symmetrical with a standoff at the turbo side to get the turnbuckle in the correct position. do you need a PS/MS Paint? but the access to that middle stud is going to be rediculous with your manifold, where Lars's has easier access without the "collector" being in the way. |
so why's a poor-flowing log manifold need to be protected against destroying itself? a crack would only make it flow betterrrrr
/troll |
Go drive your mini van.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 981652)
do you need a PS/MS Paint?
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i need a straight on shot from above of your turbo without the brace.
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 981659)
so why's a poor-flowing log manifold need to be protected against destroying itself? a crack would only make it flow betterrrrr
/troll |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 981663)
i need a straight on shot from above
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as opposed to the straight on shot from behind he got last night
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That looks good :brain:
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Gotcha gotcha.
Here's your straight on shot, although it looks like you don't need it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361477393 And round 2: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361477393 I may have done a few miscalculations and rushed the prototype into production. Sue me, I'm enthusiastic. ~JH I'm not real happy with the welds or strength of this one, although the thin rod is more to my liking, along with the symmetry. This one was definitely quicker to make, but harder to get straight. You can see I couldn't get all the over lap I woulda liked on the rear post. And I am planning for a 3rd member, just hasn't been fab'd yet. |
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