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why not just run two rods, one on each of the top nuts, straight ot the cross-bars... ezpz.
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Scott, I never know if you're being helpful. I think when you post MS paint pics you're actually being helpful.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 981616)
How about nixing the turn buckle all together and actually making it with a cable. Since this should only ever be loaded in tension you can use the cable as the 3rd member You'll just have to give its own support that sticks up randomly and close to the hood. Then if for some reason your manifold shape naturally moved upwards on heating it could.
Note this requires a cable with good high temp heat properties like 321 stainless or 316Ti, I'd worry about carbon steel failing from corrosion in a very short time since it has a high surface area to volume ratio and is going to be somewhere hot. |
True, but if you pre-load it with enough tension you can stop the net force reversal from the vibration and reduce/eliminate the fatigue wear.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 981619)
Scott, I never know if you're being helpful. I think when you post MS paint pics you're actually being helpful.
okay then: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1361468326 |
leafy.....:facepalm:
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Real question:
Make the triangle symmetrical like Tim's picture, or center it over the part of the turbine housing I'm bolting it to (like the current setup)? |
Add some bracing to the downpipe too!
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I'm making a Bbundy/FM DP brace, I've got the clamp, I'm thinking about widening it to fit a strip of metal so I don't bend my DP like Bbundy, and I'll either fab or buy FM's bracket. It's a complicated bend/shape in a shitty location, so it might be worth the $25.
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no, asshole. you could do it symmetrical with a standoff at the turbo side to get the turnbuckle in the correct position. do you need a PS/MS Paint? but the access to that middle stud is going to be rediculous with your manifold, where Lars's has easier access without the "collector" being in the way. |
so why's a poor-flowing log manifold need to be protected against destroying itself? a crack would only make it flow betterrrrr
/troll |
Go drive your mini van.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 981652)
do you need a PS/MS Paint?
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i need a straight on shot from above of your turbo without the brace.
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 981659)
so why's a poor-flowing log manifold need to be protected against destroying itself? a crack would only make it flow betterrrrr
/troll |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 981663)
i need a straight on shot from above
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as opposed to the straight on shot from behind he got last night
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That looks good :brain:
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Gotcha gotcha.
Here's your straight on shot, although it looks like you don't need it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361477393 And round 2: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1361477393 I may have done a few miscalculations and rushed the prototype into production. Sue me, I'm enthusiastic. ~JH I'm not real happy with the welds or strength of this one, although the thin rod is more to my liking, along with the symmetry. This one was definitely quicker to make, but harder to get straight. You can see I couldn't get all the over lap I woulda liked on the rear post. And I am planning for a 3rd member, just hasn't been fab'd yet. |
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