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Old 10-07-2010, 10:01 PM   #1
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Default pros-cons with IACV removed?

Im having problems with my Idle air control valve.
i must have screwed up somewhere during my wire tuck and now it constantly has power even with the key in on position.
I can fix it but im to lazy now.

I plan to make a block off plate if i do decide to remove it.

What id like to know is how will my warm up idle and normal idle be effected?

i know a few here dont run it but is there anything special i will have to do as in change some setting in the warm up tune or anything of the sort?

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:37 PM   #2
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I have a question... if your IACV is always powered, then where did you put the wire that should be always powered and is now receiving the IACV signal?
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:49 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
I have a question... if your IACV is always powered, then where did you put the wire that should be always powered and is now receiving the IACV signal?
The IACV has a signal wire and a power wire, i just spliced the IACV's power into a 12v source that also powers the ecu, CAS and injectors etc.. I found out that this is the correct power source for the iacv but for some reason its powered. like i said im to lazy to try and correct this.
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:48 PM   #4
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Brain or Joe where are you guys when i need you!?
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:00 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by railz View Post
Brain or Joe where are you guys when i need you!?
I've been working all day. And frankly, I'm a tad confused by your description of the problem:
Quote:
Originally Posted by railz View Post
it constantly has power even with the key in on position.
It's supposed to.

In the stock configuration, the white/red wire at the IACV has a constant +12 from the Main Relay any time the key is in RUN or START. This is the same circuit which powers the CAS, ECU, injectors, purge valve, fuel pump relay coil (via AFM switch), and probably a few other things which I've forgotten.

Then there's the blue/orange wire which runs to the ECU at pin 2W, where it is switched to ground through a transistor to energize the solenoid.


So, what exactly is the problem? If you're saying that it the valve is constantly energized, then you probably shorted the blue/orange wire to ground somewhere.
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:29 AM   #6
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Yes when i plug it in, it activates the iacv instantly so i constantly hear it clicking, it scares me..

The blue/orange wire is wired directly to the yellow female ecu connector so there is no way it can be grounded.

OK. so before i posted that^^ i went to double check the wiring and its solid..no way the blue/orange wire can be grounded =(((

also pm'd you Joe
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:34 AM   #7
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Any chance you changed the frequency value in TunerStudio? I know if I raise mine to high it constantly goes on and off.
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:56 AM   #8
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Mine is unplugged because its old and makes my car idle at 5000rpm sometimes. Cold-start is a bitch without it.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:20 AM   #9
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Yeah mine doesn't idle well when cold, but I either take off immediately or put my foot on on the throttle for a bit. I've had a carb'd 1953 Chevy pickup, 1985 Suzuki bike, and a Honda 400ex. They all required a little generous throttle application when cold, so this concept of having tricky electronics keeping my idle exactly the same when cold is really foreign to me. It's all dead weight if you ask me.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:47 AM   #10
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I just cut off some of the throttle body and welded the holes shut for this build. I'll let you know how it idles (Gonna do some timming advance on idle in AEM to compensate hopefully)
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Old 10-08-2010, 09:40 AM   #11
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i ran without the valve for a while, it was fine, just had to idle a little higher than i wanted. with a/c the rpms dropped about 400rpm.
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:21 AM   #12
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My valve is dead, and therefore my idle varies from like 1200-1800 once warmed up. The only time it idles at a "normal" rpm of 900-1000 is when I first start it. Kind of annoying, I'll replace the valve when I swap my new motor in. I grabbed one from a 50k mile motor which works perfectly when plugged into my harness. My current valve doesn’t even hum or click anymore...
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:01 PM   #13
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mine runs fine with no IACV, its hesitant when its cold but, like Curly said...its like driving anything that is carb'd. My Dart is the same way. And it looks nicer too without the wires running to it. IMO of course
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:21 PM   #14
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I think im going to go through the trouble and try and fix my wiring , the high idle with it removed would annoy to much
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:24 PM   #15
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My IACV died partially open, so I just unplugged the electrics to it, backed out the idle screw a bit, and the car idles steady at 1000rpm. I also installed a PCV valve on the IACV intake so that when boost happens it seals up.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:36 PM   #16
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it all goes to the same place
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
it all goes to the same place
My IACV doesn't go back to my charge pipes :(
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:19 AM   #18
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Problem solved thanks to MarcD coming over to help me!

After fixing other stupid issues with my new wiretucked harness we moved onto the IACV. Turns out it was working all along..sometimes. I wasnt getting a solid connection from the 12v to the MS so when the MS would power off, the MS wasnt keeping the IAC shut and but the IAC would still get a 12v signal which would trigger it to turn on and off constantly.

All this worry because of a loose 12v connection at the ecu..

I deserve a ciggarette now
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinb View Post
My IACV doesn't go back to my charge pipes :(
ah ha, now i get it.
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