how reliable will a 1.8l be on stock internals with a turbo set up i just swapped form a 1.6 to a 1.8 according to the seller the engine had 93k miles on it idk if it did i assume it had about 150k or something like that anyways i plan on adding a turbo charger..... the engine sounds nice it has a new timing blet i dorpped the oil pan and cleaned it it was nasty put oil pan back on and now it runs great this is my DD im in college and dont have lots of money to rebuild the hole engine so i plan on running 7psi maybe less if u guys dont think it will be reliable so far i have this

t-25 turbo used a friend of mine upgraded his eclipse got it for 20$
bov free
intercooler+piping
fmu not sure if its 8:1 or what
afpr not needed but got it for 15$
255 fuel pump walbro
oil line off ebay on its way idk if it will be reliable need return...
and need a exhaust manifold which im getting soon

anything im missing and what psi will make my car reliable i dont want to be on the side of the road cuz of a blown head gasket or rod or anything really

thank you and god bless you!!!

 

Might wanna get your money back, or at least take a class on basic grammar.

 

sorry about that english is my 3rd language i didnt mean to offend u in anyway...

 

Yes! You have passed the MiataTurbo noob test. By responding politely and without any super pissy remarks, you are now in the cool zone.


Let me help you with your question. The answer you are looking for is not related to "boost" it's related to "torque". Different turbo's will make different power on our engines, safety limits is usually between 225-250 foot pounds of torque at the rear wheels.

What I can gather from your parts list and your description, you are on a budget build. This can be done. The best way to get ideas and draw inspiration is to read up all you can on this site. Start with the "sticky" threads and work your way into the build threads.

Also. very important, we need your budget for this turbo build, your plans for the car once it's finished and pictures of women.

Welcome. Keep the good attitude and you will most likely be helped right along.

 

You are going to want to try to trade that tubo or sell it and use the proceeds to purchase a t25 off a stock nissan sr20 engine. The dsm t25s have a different flange and you will have a hard time finding a manifold for it. Secondly the dsm t25 is much less capable, I would be supprised if you were able to hit the 200whp mark with the dsm t25 without running higher then desired levels of boost.
The number one most important thing you can buy to ensure reliability, drive-ability and fuel economy is a stand alone ECU, preferably megasquirt for its low cost and for all the support you can get for tunning yourself.

 

Step 1: Buy a megasquirt.

 

50 psi.

 

well i already found the manifold that would fit the turbo and im buying it soon when i get paid my budget is well as i get paid i plan on spending 57 dollars every week after i get the manifold i know 37 dollars isnt enough, but thats all i can save weekly for i will also save... i did all maintenance timing belt water pump plugs wires new alternator new starter new battery new fuel pump walbro 255lph and all i want now is a new distributor once my car is turboed... is there any other maintenance i should do besides oil change i change my oil every month or so this was before the swap tho...
also thank you for your replies and i dont plan on building any more than 200whp i had a minivan smoke me a few weeks ago the day that i get smoked by a minivan.....

also here is my fav women in the world

 

Woah what engine is in your car that you're going to replace the distributor?

You should spend the next couple weeks reading a lot on here before you spend any more money. Get a plan before you make any purchases.

 

Those obx manifolds that have dsm flanges do not hold up at all. Like i said, i HIGHLY recommend for both performance and dependability an sr20 t25 and this. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-93
For a manifold that will not break and an elbow and downpipe to match its really an extremely good price.

 

oh sorry i forgot to mention my car im working on isnt a miata its a mx3 with an engine swap from a 91 protege bp-01 same as the miata i know this because a buddy of mine help me swapp eagle rods and pistons from a protege bp-01 to miata 1.8l bp-ze the engine is basically the same just front wheel drive... the reason i join the forum is because my gf has a turbo miata that was my last project for hers i rebuild the bottom end there for i know hers is reliable but she had a car she could use while we rebuild hers and waited on parts i dont have that option there for reliability may or may not be an issue sorry if me owning a mx3 bothers u as im violating the rules of the forum in a way... also i know this manifold will hold because she owns it and it fits my block perfect and the turbo bolts on just right....

 

7 psi is just fine. in fact, any lower and what's the point? most guys run up to 12 psi or so with their gt2560's without any problem with the stock. whatever psi gets you around 200 hp will give you a good kick without having to worry about the engine. but save up for a megasquirt if you want to keep your engine the longest and get a tune

 

doyoualsotypeinshittygrammarandno punctuationinyourother2anguagesaswell

 

It fits =/= reliability.

 

eleventy.

 

Step 2: Cut a hole in the box.

 

Step 3: Soak overnight in seafoam.

 

-You don't need a Walbro 255 for those power levels on a Miata. Not sure about a MX3.
-Sell the turbo and get a normal flanged T25. It'll be cheaper to build a reliable setup.
-Megasquirt > FMU
-Worry about horsepower/torque, not PSI.

 

nine nine nine