SamNavy, StageII begins.... - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-18-2007, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default SamNavy, StageII begins....

After a short hiatus while I recovered from the shock of making far less than I'd hoped on the dyno while simultaneously uncovering a host of other problems, I've decided that my car hobby keeps me off the street-corners (unless I'm using one for an apex) and out of trouble... so I'm back in with full gusto.

Stage 1 of my turbo build finished that fine Friday afternoon two weeks ago with crap for a fuel curve the obvious need for more tinkering. Boost was not the problem (unless you count too much a problem). So, let StageII begin.

StageII first things. Fix two current problems:

RECIRCULATE MY BOV:
Tools required: 1/2 NPT tap and 45/64" bit.
Instructions: drill and tap hole in appropriate location on intake pipe. Thread barb in place. Dremel excess brass on the inside for a smooth tract. Apply light coat of JB weld. Allow drying time and sand smooth. Remove previous Bosch BOV/check valve and replace with new Bosch BOV. Attach hose and clamp. Drive and enjoy freeway speeds without the bucking and jumping.

RE-DRILL OIL PAN:
Tools required: 1/2 NPT tap and 45/64" bit (how convenient).
I had previously used a 3/8 NPT-1"barb because that's the biggest tap I could find locally. That small opening and my DIY pop-rivet oil restrictor might be contributing to overpressurizing the turbo and my constant oil-burn issue. If it doesn't fix the burn, my next step is an ATPturbo .035 inlet restictor, which is about 1/2 the size of my pop-rivet. We'll see.
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:53 PM   #2
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I thought the .035 restrictors were for ball bearing turbo's only and that they would be to small for a journal/oil bearing turbo? Could be wrong, just what I've read, what have you found on that subject?
Glad the BOV recirc solved your bucking problems. What about that helper spring you were so gung-ho about earlier on, have you decided to port the WG opening instead?
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:53 PM   #3
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+1 for same being back to kick his car in the *** and not dealing drugs?
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:55 PM   #4
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Next, to get a handle on my fueling and to make tuning easier... I'm definitely going WB02. I've decided on an LC-1 w/o gauge for the controller.
I've also been studying eManage and Megasquirt and think an EMB might be the ticket considering the price and great support around here.

Question:
I've already torn up my stock wiring harness with the installation of the O2 clamp and Bipes. I was considering purchasing a complete wiring harness and doing all of the splicing and soldering on the kitchen table vice the floor of the passenger seat... which is why my current harness looks terrible.
I looked at the harness as it exits the ECU and it splits into two main pieces just behind the glove-box. One side goes right and exits through the firewall in the very far right corner of the engine bay. Every single line traced down that bundle ends in a connector of some sort.
The other side goes left and dissapears behind the HVAC stuff. Question: Does that side also terminate all it's leads in connectors, or do you actually have to cut wires to that hook directly to boxes?

I would seem pretty easy to buy a complete used harness and do all the wiring outside the car. Any thoughts???
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:03 PM   #5
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To clarify, both the projects in the first post will be completed this weekend. I'll take pics and do the usual writeup.

My research about oil restrictors has led me to no conclusions. An equal number of turbo-world "authority figures" swear on both sides of the oil supply fence. My situation is that I'm burning oil on a brand newly rebuild turbo. Either I'm oversupplying, under draining, or my piston rings are shot. I had good compression numbers and am going to check the plugs for signs of blowby this weekend, but am going to start the fix with more drainage less feed.

The next time I need to take the turbine housing off I will definitely port the thing. I'm just not motivated to do it now. I spent several hours one afternoon trying to creatively engineer a helper-spring. My stock DSM wastegate is not spring-mounting friendly. I conceived a number of ways to do it, but they were all just too ghetto. Right now though, more boost is not the issue. On wastegate alone, I'm showing an initial spike to 7psi and settle at 6psi, so I'm fine until I can control the fuel better... then work on controlling the boost.
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:24 PM   #6
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What's the score on your clutch?
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:28 PM   #7
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I bought a rebuilt turbo to save time once, (and the price was the same as a used locally) it burned/leak like mad. I tore it down and discovered the carbon seal on the turbine side had been squashed when it was re-assembled the first time... needless to say I will stick to rebuilding my own.

Just keep in my mind that you might have too much oil pressure to the turbo, Hence too much oil, so some type of a restrictor may be the ticket.. I had a terrible time on my P5 with oil, but a short length of small diameter brake line line cured it.
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:30 PM   #8
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I was wondering on your clutch as well.

I just received a Spec Stage 2 in the mail yesterday for the P5. I ordered it after I read about your Dyno woes...
Did you have your flywheel resurfaced when you changed it? (not that really should make that big of a difference)
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:04 AM   #9
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To recap my Dyno thread:
The clutch started slipping at 180ftlbs of torque... that was after reaching 16psi. It was a pretty good ramp-up of torque. I was disappointed as it's rated for for over 200rwtq. You can clearly see on the dyno-graph (which I need to scan an post) that I peak at [email protected] and then the torque dips all the way back to 155ftlbs by 5600rpm. RWHP is on a steep rise all the way through 4400rpm and although it continues to climb up to 167rwhp, it levels off dramatically.

The AFR starts at [email protected], dips immediately to about [email protected], and then slowly goes lean to an even [email protected], then back to a full rich [email protected] That was all at 130psi of fuel pressure which I was unable to dial down.

I purchased a spare flywheel that I had resurfaced well prior to the install.

The clutch holds great now that I've backed the boost off a little. It feels exactly like stock and I have no complaints at all at the current 140ftlbs I'm putting through it.
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:23 AM   #10
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well where is this so called graph? and do you have the .drf files?
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:27 AM   #11
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So you haven't talk to SPEC as to why the clutch is under performing?
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Old 01-19-2007, 02:25 AM   #12
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YO (IM MAD GONNA BUST THE CAP BUTTON)MY FRIEND HAS A 1JZ SWAPED 90 SUPRA,and the clutch they sold him gave his motor crank walk and everey other person on supraforums with that clutch.it was a certain model.any way there was about 2 inches of travel with his harmonic balancer.it was a horrible sight.
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:44 AM   #13
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Isn't crank walk more of a thrust bearing issue?
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Old 01-19-2007, 11:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
Isn't crank walk more of a thrust bearing issue?
yeah... but if you increase the hell out of the pressure plate spring force the equal and opposite thing says that the force on your thrust bearing it increased also. perhaps these people spent too much time reving their car with the clutch disengaged or something. I don't think a clutch could cause crank walk, but a beefy pressure plate sure can.
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Old 01-19-2007, 03:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
So you haven't talk to SPEC as to why the clutch is under performing?
I have not. I should probably call them and at least get some documentation started. When it comes to parts like clutches, I would assume that the manufacturers will naturally underrate the product so if people take the thing all the way to it's advertised performance limit there is still some extra clamping force in there. Obviously all clutches are different, but the thing did fail at 60ftlbs less than advertised... if the're rated in CrankHP, then it failed at about 35ftlbs less than advertised.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:08 PM   #16
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Clutches are rated at the flywheel, it's obvious when you think about it

Dude the clutch should not slip, call the people you bought it from and also call spec and get the ball rolling. If it's slipping now it probably won't get better!

The only time my clutch has given me less than very crisp lockup was after doing a number of fast launches with out letting the car cool off. But as I understand it this is a property of kevlar.

Jay
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
Clutches are rated at the flywheel, it's obvious when you think about it

Dude the clutch should not slip, call the people you bought it from and also call spec and get the ball rolling. If it's slipping now it probably won't get better!

The only time my clutch has given me less than very crisp lockup was after doing a number of fast launches with out letting the car cool off. But as I understand it this is a property of kevlar.

Jay
yup.
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Old 01-19-2007, 05:16 PM   #18
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My 200tq rated ACT clutch is just slipping at 180rwtq, factoring in drivetrain losses, that about 210 Flywheel TQ.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
yeah... but if you increase the hell out of the pressure plate spring force the equal and opposite thing says that the force on your thrust bearing it increased also. perhaps these people spent too much time reving their car with the clutch disengaged or something. I don't think a clutch could cause crank walk, but a beefy pressure plate sure can.
reason number 234532 why i love my twin plate. you can hold 500 ft lbs with 250 ft lbs of pressure plate.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:44 PM   #20
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my spec 4 puck does not slip at all ... with 90 hp lol. Didnt slip when i ran 10 psi with a megasquirt that was tach spiking either (not a fun experience)
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