I am not familiar with Resbond, is the one made by Loctite sufficient? I was thinking of using Loctite 272 since that seem to be the highest temp one.

Thanks,

 

Not made by Loctite. You can order it from mcmaster. Expensive stuff and it only last about 6 months in the bottle.
https://www.mcmaster.com/7604A56/
Maybe someone on here knows where to get it in smaller quantities or cheaper.

 

Last time I got some it was from a forum member who bought a batch and was selling it. Of course, that was probably out of necessity (and doing us a favor) since it does expire.

 

Thanks, I would only use it for the side of the stud that goes into the manifold since the other used may still need to be tightened.

I guess $70 is not that bad considering what I am spending on this set up.

I wonder if I could use this stuff on anything else outside of this application? Is it possible to break it loose after it's fully settled or does it screw up the treads?

 

That might have been me. I did it 4 years ago when I bought a large bottle for my own use.

IIRC there were a few individuals selling it in smaller bottles on eBay. Based on the listings, I bought my own large bottle from McMaster-Carr and some small bottles from Amazon and sold small bottles here and on Facebook.

 

You will have so much more fun with a built Miata. It's crazy how fast you could make them. Mine with bad suspension and aero kit. Around 280whp was doing 1:50 in Sonoma. I am expecting to get to low 1:40s next year with good suspension set up and better power delivery

 

Would this be the right product to use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/31571349159...mis&media=COPY

 

I can't attest to that product, but the temperature range listed is higher than the Resbond 907TS many on this forum have used. It would be worth sending the manufacture an email to get more information.

 

Is this the right product ( thought it was suppose to be d
Red but this one is blue): https://www.ebay.com/itm/28612211265...mis&media=COPY

How do you check to see what the expiration date is since it's only good for 6 months?

 

There should be a date on it. You would need to contact the seller.

 

Miataroadster sells smaller bottles for $10. I got a bottle to my house in a couple days for $15 with shipping.

https://miataroadster.com/products/o...red-threadlock

 

I actually found it last night. Bill always has great staff. I also noticed that he includes this stuff on a new stud kit for exhaust Menafold. I wonder how you would take the exhaust manifold studs out after you using that locker. The label said that it requires 250 ft/lb to break it loose.

 

I did his manifold kit when installing my kraken turbo manifold and was very pleased with the kit. I had to buy another bottle bc I waited too long between doing my exhaust studs and my turbo studs. If I did it all at the same time the little bottle would have been enough for that entire hot side.

 

How do you get the studs back out of cylinder head? Did you use two locking nuts or did they back out easily without any pressure?

 

I used the double nut method and it was easy.

 

The nice thing about the MR replacement exhaust studs for the head is it comes with a little bottle of resbond. I used it for the head studs and also used it for the inconel studs that go into the turbo manifold (I may have used them on the turbine outlet studs as well, I can't remember). I had a lot left but tossed it as it doesn't last. I only have one track weekend on the car but nothing loosened up (yet). *knock on wood*

 

How much did you put on each stud? I wonder if it's going to be possible to take those studs or if the head.

 

I want to preface this by saying I am not a materials engineer, nor a professional welder so take this post with a grain of salt if you will. If you are more knowledgeable about the subject please leave constructive feedback so we call all learn from it.

I have the Kraken low mount setup with an EFR 6258 and had the classic turbo to manifold struggles. This is mainly a road race car, so it sees extended periods of high-load, generating lots of heat and vibration. I am located in Northern California and this car is not a crazy build compared to some on this site. Reference times at Thunderhill are 58-59’s and high to mid 40’s at Sonoma at 200whp.

I followed the tried and true recipe of Inconel studs, Resbond 907TS, Stage 8 locking hardware to no avail. The manifold studs are M8 and do not have experience with the larger M10 hardware. Due to the nature of the low mount, it is a much more tedious task to periodically check torque of the hardware compared to a traditional top mount setup. I found my manifold would loosen and cause a variety of problems from power loss, driveability issues, to burning surrounding components.

Fed up with the issues I opted to weld the manifold to the exhaust housing. Firstly, I started by checking that both the manifold and the exhaust housings were flat. Then added an aggressive chamfer to the perimeter of both the manifold and the exhaust housing flange with a grinder to fill with weld later.

The issue lies in compatibility when welding the manifold to the exhaust housing. The Kraken manifold being cast iron and the Borgwarner exhaust housing being stainless steel. I was recommended to use Crown Alloys 220-T due to the high nickel content and for strength.

https://bakersgas.com/products/crown-rt220-tn-bp

Curly is correct when it comes to welding the two together. It is extremely important to control the temperature when heating and cooling the manifold to mitigate the risk of cracking or warping. I do not know the exact procedure that was used but everything was heated and cooled gradually to prevent this.

Full perimeter weld around the original T25 flange and the holes plugged with weld. I did not weld this myself, as the results are much nicer than anything I could have done.

Here are photos of the results:








I have yet to have any issues with the current configuration and the car has seen a handful of events since welding. After welding, it is nice to know that I do not have to check for leaks after every session. I am continuing to monitoring for cracks after every event but have had good luck thus far. Now my only current issue is melting the oil feed line that is nestled between the manifolds.

I hope you find this post helpful.

 

Very nice. Glad to see someone has successfully done this to a kraken manifold. I'll probably opt for m10 if/when I have issues, but nice to know this can be an option.

The Mclaren GT4 car that I had the manifolds welded was due to a TSB from Mclaren themselves, specifying specific filler rods and welding methods. Multiple passes had to be used, I think there was a dimension the chamfer had to be before welding, etc. I think later models only had 4 heavy tack welds between the studs. They did specify that new studs and nuts had to be installed and torqued prior to welding, that's probably the only thing I would change with your setup, in my head the studs still do something to keep some stress out of the weld, but I could be wrong.

 

I noticed that you have a really nice coolant mixing manifold. I was just planning to weld the stock one to delete the coolant return line ( my car does not have heater and I have coolant reroute). Where did you get that mixing manifold?