When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice. Glad to see someone has successfully done this to a kraken manifold. I'll probably opt for m10 if/when I have issues, but nice to know this can be an option.
The Mclaren GT4 car that I had the manifolds welded was due to a TSB from Mclaren themselves, specifying specific filler rods and welding methods. Multiple passes had to be used, I think there was a dimension the chamfer had to be before welding, etc. I think later models only had 4 heavy tack welds between the studs. They did specify that new studs and nuts had to be installed and torqued prior to welding, that's probably the only thing I would change with your setup, in my head the studs still do something to keep some stress out of the weld, but I could be wrong.
I think I am going to give it a shot with M10 bolts before I weld the turbo. My correct set up was not welded and I did not have an issue if the turbo coming lose.
I am going to torque the turbo bolts after each track day for the first few until I do not see the turbo bolts coming loose.
I noticed that you have a really nice coolant mixing manifold. I was just planning to weld the stock one to delete the coolant return line ( my car does not have heater and I have coolant reroute). Where did you get that mixing manifold?
Overkill By Design makes the kit. It is super nice piece, radiator hose lines up nicely and back is tapped for a -6AN fitting. Though I am not sure if they still make the piece anymore. Best option is to reach out to them.
I think I am going to give it a shot with M10 bolts before I weld the turbo. My correct set up was not welded and I did not have an issue if the turbo coming lose.
I am going to torque the turbo bolts after each track day for the first few until I do not see the turbo bolts coming loose.
M10 won't work with a EFR exhaust housing. There isn't enough room on the flange for the hole and the flange nut relief in at least one of the locations (if side mounted, it's the lower rear hole, same one you can't use Stage8 locking tabs).
I ran 4 race weekends ~200whp on M8 Inconel studs, Resbond, Ti nuts, safety wired, turbo brace, and down pipe support and saw no issues with the turbo coming loose. I had to fabricate the turbo brace and downpipe support on my own, but they didn't require any specialty tools to make.
M10 won't work with a EFR exhaust housing. There isn't enough room on the flange for the hole and the flange nut relief in at least one of the locations (if side mounted, it's the lower rear hole, same one you can't use Stage8 locking tabs).
I ran 4 race weekends ~200whp on M8 Inconel studs, Resbond, Ti nuts, safety wired, turbo brace, and down pipe support and saw no issues with the turbo coming loose. I had to fabricate the turbo brace and downpipe support on my own, but they didn't require any specialty tools to make.
Could you send me a picture of the turbo brace and downpipe support that you fabricated
Could you send me a picture of the turbo brace and downpipe support that you fabricated
I would personally give a turbo/dp brace a shot before welding the exh housing to the manifold. I only did mine recently. You can also find it in my build thread. Here's a couple pictures before I rounded off the square edges. I'll note, clearance w/ the oem water pipe might be tight, I switched to an R theory water neck/mixing manifold. I'm running a garrett turbo. There is concern w/ cracking due to the metal not being allowed to move as much but the OEM MSM miata uses a brace on the turbine housing, and the heim joint should allow a little movement.
DP brace I used the oem tranny mount and modified it to fit the downpipe.
Do you have a link where to get MSM OEM joint and the rest of the parts?
I was simply saying the OEM MSM has a support bracket for the turbo. It bolts to the turbine housing and the block, so it's not adaptable to an aftermarket turbo setup.
I would personally give a turbo/dp brace a shot before welding the exh housing to the manifold. I only did mine recently. You can also find it in my build thread. Here's a couple pictures before I rounded off the square edges. I'll note, clearance w/ the oem water pipe might be tight, I switched to an R theory water neck/mixing manifold. I'm running a garrett turbo. There is concern w/ cracking due to the metal not being allowed to move as much but the OEM MSM miata uses a brace on the turbine housing, and the heim joint should allow a little movement.
DP brace I used the oem tranny mount and modified it to fit the downpipe.
I am concerned bolting down pipe to the transmission support, as I want to keep my tranny as cool as possible. I even have a heat shield on my current set up to decrease heat transfer.
Do you guys think its 100% necessary to support down pipe or could I get away with just supporting the turbo?
I am concerned bolting down pipe to the transmission support, as I want to keep my tranny as cool as possible. I even have a heat shield on my current set up to decrease heat transfer.
Do you guys think its 100% necessary to support down pipe or could I get away with just supporting the turbo?
The OEM configuration has the "downpipe" attached to the tranny at the same point. I would expect minimal temp increase from such a small contact point. Necessary? No. Plenty of people run w/o a turbo brace or downpipe brace.
The OEM configuration has the "downpipe" attached to the tranny at the same point. I would expect minimal temp increase from such a small contact point. Necessary? No. Plenty of people run w/o a turbo brace or downpipe brace.
Could you send me better pictures of where the downpipe attached to the tranny?
0
