So I Turboed my Car...
 

Ok I turboed my miata...
I did not do it right, I know I didn't, how screwed am I?

It has been turboed for 2 months now,always had issues but it has gotten far worse lately

Car was a stock 1990 miata until the turbo went in

So my list of parts

eBay Cast Manifold (cheap and so far so good)

eBay Turbo from a sr-20 (free from a friend, might steal his garret)

HUGE front mount intercooler from my MazdaSpeed3 (stored for the winter)

Snow Performance stage 3 Methanol injection (there is my extra fuel Maybe?)

HKS SSQV BOV

Custom:
Downpipe and Exhaust

Intercooler piping

Oil + Water Lines


So now the problem

My car is NOT happy with me

Very rough idle (just got new plugs and wires, going to instal them in the next couple of days)

Cannot hit full boost at lower RPM without major back fire and serious hesitation

Car generally not running very well, throwing engine codes all the time (dont have an obd1 reader)

Help?

(i will take the abuse i am going to receive with quiet understanding)

So you have no fuel control and no wideband?
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:hustler:

You mean you added huge amounts of air and no fuel... and the motor doesn't like it? What could possibly be the problem? I would ask if your afrs are around 16 or 17 in boost but you have no wideband to even see how effed you really are.

Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried.

Now this thread has potential!:drama:

Ok while i don't have a Wideband my Methenol Kit does show pulse width and i have never gone above 75%

That means nothing. The $150 you saved by not buying an lc1 or the like probably just cost you an engine.

How much boost? Tell me you at least have a mbc and a gauge? How can you lurk on this site for over a year before starting your build and not learn anything?

huh?


phil, you going to start hanging out here a bit more often now? bout time, you are missed :makeout:

The methanol kit also shows boost and I have never hit over 8 psi

No manual boost controller either. I just watch my meth kit more then I watch the road :s

I have a lot of experience with the mazdaspeed engine. Just not
Much with the miata engine.

How you blow a speed engine: run out of fuel.

That has not happened yet to the miata so as far as I can tell the engine is not catastrophically blown.

Don't kid yourself. You have ran out of fuel. Thats why your car wont rev for ---- in boost.

Do yourself a favor, don't drive the car at all - especially in boost until you get a wbo2 on there and some kind of timing/fuel control.

I would laugh and make fun of you, but there was already - and will be plenty more of that in this thread.

The laughing and making fun of is fine with me I deserve it. I should have done far more research before trying to make the miata into the beast that is my speed. As long as their is advise to follow. That's why I'm here, to learn.

And what would cause the car to backfire and shutter so hard when hitting boost at lower rpm (at high rpm it is not a problem and the only time I have hit any sort of boost)

What I have done which really helps is open up the wastegate completely (un attached the wastegate actuator) and I don't have problems and only get boost at 6000 rpm

From the research I have done is that my timing is to advanced at lower rpm which is causing all the problems. One advantage I do have in regards to that is the fact that is has not been above freezing since the turbo went in.

In in in, I'm in on this one.

So your saying that you disconnected the waste gate and don't get boost till 6000 rpms? This lets the engine run fine up till then?

Do a compression test, buy/borrow/steal a wideband setup, get a boost controller, get controll* of fuel and hope that you still have something to work with...

You probably blew up the motor. 8psi with absolutely no additional fuel for 2 months is a great way to do that. When you install the replacement motor, get a wideband, injectors, and an ECU so it doesn't happen again.

Just to hammer home this point, you cannot run boost on a car that is not designed to have boost with just water injection... From what I can read from your responses, you previously had a factory boosted car and you were able to increase the boost and manage it with water meth. The only reason this would work is because the factory car computer can understand what positive pressure means and how to react to it. You go and put positive pressure into a regular miata and you are going to blow shiz up. Chances are you've detonated the hell out of this motor, but it's possible you got lucky. You need to disconnect your wastegate (if it's internal) and not run any boost. You need some sort of device to increase fuel. Best option would be a megasquirt. Other options include fuel risers, piggy back ECU's, and even adjustable fuel pressure regulators. You also need to decrease timing somehow. A stock greddy turbo kit suggests you drop the base timing to 6 degrees, but that's with 4psi of boost on a small ass turbo. You really need to get a new ECU or piggyback to adjust your timing accordingly.

PS, go look at turbo kits made by Flyin Miata and BEGI. Look at what is included in those kits and see what parts you are missing. And in regards to your comment about it lucky that the temperature has been below freezing... that's not going to have any effect on your fuel shortage problem. Detonation will happen not because your motor is too hot but because you have too much air and too little fuel.

Good luck.

:inout:

so much fail.

1. Sell WI kit, buy proper engine management and WB

3. Tune your car

2. Hope you didn't kill your motor.
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I thought that people like this were mythical.

How can someone take the time and research and labor to put all this shi on their car but not take care of the most important shi?

I mean seriously op, your mechanical and turbo-kit-from-scratch skills probably GREATLY exceed mine. But how are you so fuking retarded?

I have faith, OP will be back with internally built 1.8, baller turbo, 1794 psi boost; and wonder why his 1.6 differential is making strange noises.

Just to be clear: a wastegate will be fully open when you hit your target boost. Therefore, although you will slow down response quite a bit, you will still generate boost. As you said you are not experiencing boost now until 6000rpm. Please note: this is still not safe. Now from 6000-7000rpm you will be in boost with no extra fuel. Still very unsafe.

But the ECU has no idea how much more air is being put in, it's just pegging at it's limit of 0% boost.

You're mega lean and a mega noob, you NEED engine management or your car will die - if it hasn't already.