Kinda played hooky today to work on the car so i figured i'd get some pics.

Test fitting everything...




Ripped out the tranny to swap the XTD clutch from my old turbo escort gt...


Intercooler mounted....


The path of destruction when i stopped tonight...




Unfortunately i have to pull the oil pan to fix the damn pickup i poked when drilling for the return but im hoping to have her up and running again by next weekend.

 

I've always heard it's better to mount your bov on the cold pipe. I assume that's what that flange is for right next to the compressor.

If it's for something else ignore me.

 

hmm i've never heard that...you know why?

 

Mine works fine in that exact location.

 

the thinking is to have it as close to the throttle plate as possible when it shuts... but yeah, it doesn't seem to bother those who don't. Lucky NB guys with all that room behind the lights to run pipe. Are the bars angled on your IC or is that a tube N fin?

 

I'd rather vent hot air than cold air.

 

nice work.

 

Looks good. I/C size? I like the pipe thru the fender.

 

lookin good man

 

i think the thinking at some point may have been to keep the pressure surge from goin back through the ic, but who knows if it will hold any water (the idea not intercooler)

 

the idea is that the surge of backpressure will instantly exit the bov closest to the butterfly valve, the end.

 

that hot air that's not vented will be cold air when it reaches the manifold since it's gone through the IC. Meanwhile the cold air you didn't vent is sitting in the cold pipe getting hot.

I've also read that because the pressure pre IC is higher than post IC, it negates the back surge AND you want the bov at the higher pressure pipe.

 

Consider the flow of air through the intake system.

Air has mass. And so when flowing freely from the filter, through the turbo, past the intercooler and up into the intake manifold, it also has inertia.

You suddenly close the throttle.

If the BOV is located very near to the throttle plate, the movement of the column of air through the intake tract continues relative unabated, exiting the BOV. When you open the throttle once more, the air is already moving the in correct direction.

If the BOV is located just after the compressor, then when you shut the throttle all the air in the pipes, which is traveling at considerable velocity, has nowhere to go. It stops, a pressure wave occurs, and it tries to reverse direction and go backwards through the system. When you open the throttle, that column of air has to get itself moving in the correct direction again. This scenario might cause a small hesitation on the transition back into throttle.

It's probably a sufficiently small point as to be entirely academic, but so it is.

 

Hey jb weld the pick up 2 years and running strong

 

Thanks for the compliments guys...and i guess that makes sense the bov close to the throttle plate. I put it on the other side because im planning to try a blow through maf and i didnt think i'd be able to fit it in near the throttle.

And the IC is a tube/fin ebay special 28x8x2.5.

 

Can that work? I know you can't do a blow-through AFM, but I don't recall ever seeing anyone try it with a MAF. I guess in theory the physics of it are sound- just wonder if the temperature sensor is fast enough to deal with rapid temperature swings (ie: the onset of boost).

 

I've met a few local guys who ran blow though setups on late 90's proteges and it seemed to work very well for them. So the plan is to use maf from a 5.0 mustang, which i know has enough range and fast enough response time, and then use my emanage to adapt the signal to the ecu. In theory everything should work out but we'll see if everything plays well together.

Also, why cant you blow through an AFM? I know its apples to oranges but back when i was into ford 2.3T's quite a few guys had success blowing through the stock vanes so i would think the meter could take it.

 

just MS it.

 

+1 on MS
I don't suggest trying a blow through MAF. There is no reason to do it actually. If you're running a Emanage why don't you just hook up a map signal and leave the MAF pre turbo like it's supposed to be? The IAT sensor is external the MAF, it is it's own closed element probe. If you remove it your alternator circuit won't work and it won't charge your battery for some reason.
Why the idea to try a blow through MAF over a MAP sensor anyway?

 

CT emissions pretty much rule out the ms for me right now. And i wanted to try it for the greater accuracy of a maf and for the sake of experimenting really. I have a map sensor hooked up already to fall back on if it doesnt work out.