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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-09-2014, 01:21 AM   #21
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I've shortened inconel studs before. it was surprisingly easy, but that was before any heat cycles, so I don't know ( I hear the stuff gets harder with heat)

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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
From what I've seen, they mostly fab in stainless. ?? I don't think I've ever seen a mild steel turbo manifold. Maybe we need pics of op's manifold.

Mild steel that is subject to fastening forces (ie, threads) will let go at elevated temps. It's a physical property. It's why we use inconel studs. The turbo mounting flange threads see basically the same temps and forces.
I think there's a misunderstanding or confusing here, but too tired to properly correct it.
bottom line - there are tons of mild manifolds, and in fact what tim and abe put together is more often mild vs stainless. in fact, I've heard many fabricators mention mild being much better than stainless in these applications.
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:38 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I've shortened inconel studs before. it was surprisingly easy, but that was before any heat cycles, so I don't know ( I hear the stuff gets harder with heat)


I think there's a misunderstanding or confusing here, but too tired to properly correct it.
bottom line - there are tons of mild manifolds, and in fact what tim and abe put together is more often mild vs stainless. in fact, I've heard many fabricators mention mild being much better than stainless in these applications.
its a tradeoff. Mild vs 304 stainless, mechanically mild is better for a number of reasons, 304 is better for heat retention and corrosion, especially on the inside of the runners, its also cheaper for 304 weld els for some bizarre reason. Ultimately they're both mediocre choices. If you're comparing to 321 or even 316Ti they blow both mild and 304 out of the water in all categories besides price in this application.
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:06 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Part of the issue is likely the stud being too long (not specifically designed for your mani)
Which manifold are they designed for ? Your studs seem to have an extra 2-3 threads before the shank more than the original studs that come with a begi manifold
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:00 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I wouldn't do it. I doubt the Inconel would play nice with the stainless turbo nuts. Cut the studs down, re-Resbond, and try it again.
I'll try your method first.

If that doesn't skin the cat, what flavor of Inconel is used to make the studs? If I ef it up, you can sell me another set of studs.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:12 PM   #25
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If that doesn't skin the cat, what flavor of Inconel is used to make the studs? .
It's our flavor, from our supplier.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Gt2560rMiata View Post
Which manifold are they designed for ? Your studs seem to have an extra 2-3 threads before the shank more than the original studs that come with a begi manifold
They were originally designed for/tested in Bell manifolds.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:15 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It's our flavor, from our supplier.
Understood. Would you be willing to say good weldability or not? Or have you already kinda said that?

Inconel 600: Solid solution strengthened
Inconel 625: Acid resistant, good weldability. The LCF version is typically used in bellows.
Inconel 690: Low cobalt content for nuclear applications, and low resistivity
Inconel 713: Newly developed alloy
Inconel 718: Gamma double prime strengthened with good weldability
Inconel 751: Increased aluminium content for improved rupture strength in the 1600 F range
Inconel 792: Increased aluminium content for improved high temperature corrosion properties, used especially in gas turbines
Inconel 939: Gamma prime strengthened with good weldability
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