1) When I tried to mount my non-clocked SR20 T25 onto the new BEGI manifold, there are clearance issues w/ the triangular compressor outlet hitting the manifold. Do I HAVE to clock the compressor outlet downwards for this to fit? Or is a spacer normally used? I always thought T25 were plug and play for BEGI manifolds?

2) How do you remount the wastegate actuator if clocking this downwards? I'd prefer not to drill/tap the compressor housing. Any other non-permanent methods while utilizing the stock actuator?

Thanks.

 

You REALLY want to clock the compressor housing. You also REALLY want to just remove the compressor housing, drill/tap it, and mount the wastegate can properly. You'll love yourself after it's all installed and looking like it should. A few minutes with a drillpress and a hand-tap and it'll be done up real nice.

 

That's the best way to do it. Unless you go with a different wastegate actuator (the DSM ones mount to the back of the compressor housing vice the front), or fabricate a bracket of some sort that uses the stock holes (totally doable and done often), or go with an external wastegate.... you're stuck tapping the compressor housing so everything will line up.

As for clocking, you can aim the compressor outlet down (highly recommended if you don't have AC/PS), or towards the firewall... see a Stripes-Pipes kit for that angle.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...7&postcount=11

 

Just go EWG dumped to atmosphere and that'll solve your drill/tap issues for the wastegate :-P.

But seriously, clocking and re-drilling/tapping isn't that bad, and it's what you should do.

 

I don't have PS, but I do have AC. Will this make clocking downwards a problem? Is it still doable?

 

hmmm sam how difficult would you say it is to drill tap the compressor housing? I actually had a theory which turned out to be alright.. but not smart. Check it out.



The L Bracket on the valve cover.. I was thinking about bolting up the IWG there. It bolts up fine.. the WG is closed completely but I'm just not sure how safe that would be.

 

I think that's an awesome solution... as long as the turbine housing and the actuator are in fixed position in relation to each other... it shouldn't matter that they're not physically mounted to each other.

Kenzo... you need to figure out how you're going to route your pipes. Look through the vbGarage and the Picture upload and check out a bunch of engine bays and the dozen or so ways of routing your piping. If your compressor housing points straight down and the AC compressor is 1" below that, there's no room for a pipe, and you're left with the only option (since you're using the ATP adapter) of pointing the compressor outlet at the fender and making a 180* turn back toward the IC... like this one, right:
http://www.**********/turbo-install-done.jpg

 

What the heck? I never even knew VBgarage even existed!

 

looks flimsy, how thick is it?

 

Flush your brake fluid man that stuff is dark as heck. Don't broken dipsticks suck? I just replaced mine.

 

Its prob he most expensive solution out of all mentioned, but ATPturbo.com does sell a WG actuator & mounting bracket for clocked turbos...I used both on my gt2560 and worked fantastic...U can then sell the original actuator and recoop some money...
If u DO decide to go this route, make sure u order through wideopentuning (member), great guy and u get a lil something off the price vs the website...

 

did the L bracket thing when i did my build, guess genius' think alike

 

Hey Kenzo, what kind of fitting did you use on the coolant ports and how did you connect the steel braid water lines to the flares on the car, just slip on and clamp?

 

Pakman is using one of these to attach it to the coolant lines.

 

^ What store sells that, specifically one in 90 Degree.

 

www.anplumbing.com