Tan top max HP
05-24-2012, 07:45 PM
#24
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 124
Total Cats: -160
Lmao, i did god dam. like 3 different threads said 7.5psi with a 15g though, but i dont see how im running 10, that was the question, and yeah i did research, your just being ignorant. its fine if you dont want to share info, idgaf, but dont bring something up if you wont explain it lol thats just rude. and again, I DID SEARCH.
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05-24-2012, 09:12 PM
#27
Bambam... the variable that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread yet and that is critical to how much power you can make is FUEL PRESSURE. You are not running an ECU, so really the only thing you can control is RATE OF RISE and FUEL PRESSURE.
I ran well over 130psi at the injector for a long time before I got myself a fuel pressure gauge and actually went to a dyno. With my SR20det T25, tan-tops, Walbro 190lphHP, 02clamp, and Bipes... I ran 90-100psi fuel pressure at 14psi boost for the flattest AFR curve I could manage. It was far from flat, but it was as good as bandaids get. That was good for 210whp. I stepped up to 310's and it made zero more power, but I could run slightly lower fuel pressure.
YOU MUST GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. YOU MUST GET A WIDEBAND. Now you can tune on the street.
When you AFR's are as flat as you can make them on the street, get to a dyno.
Oh yeah... the Greddy fuel pressure device is archaic as far as AFPR's go. Get a used Begi 2025 from the classifieds (or buy one new), and get serious about your tune. With the Begi, you can dial in base-pressure and have an adjustable rate-of-rise on-the-fly. You don't need to swap in discs, so you can do a pull, check your shiz, and use a screwdriver to dial in more or less fuel pressure, then do another pull and check. It's really the only way to go if you're stuck with bandaids.
I ran well over 130psi at the injector for a long time before I got myself a fuel pressure gauge and actually went to a dyno. With my SR20det T25, tan-tops, Walbro 190lphHP, 02clamp, and Bipes... I ran 90-100psi fuel pressure at 14psi boost for the flattest AFR curve I could manage. It was far from flat, but it was as good as bandaids get. That was good for 210whp. I stepped up to 310's and it made zero more power, but I could run slightly lower fuel pressure.
YOU MUST GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. YOU MUST GET A WIDEBAND. Now you can tune on the street.
When you AFR's are as flat as you can make them on the street, get to a dyno.
Oh yeah... the Greddy fuel pressure device is archaic as far as AFPR's go. Get a used Begi 2025 from the classifieds (or buy one new), and get serious about your tune. With the Begi, you can dial in base-pressure and have an adjustable rate-of-rise on-the-fly. You don't need to swap in discs, so you can do a pull, check your shiz, and use a screwdriver to dial in more or less fuel pressure, then do another pull and check. It's really the only way to go if you're stuck with bandaids.
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05-24-2012, 10:49 PM
#30
Bambam... the variable that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread yet and that is critical to how much power you can make is FUEL PRESSURE. You are not running an ECU, so really the only thing you can control is RATE OF RISE and FUEL PRESSURE.
I ran well over 130psi at the injector for a long time before I got myself a fuel pressure gauge and actually went to a dyno. With my SR20det T25, tan-tops, Walbro 190lphHP, 02clamp, and Bipes... I ran 90-100psi fuel pressure at 14psi boost for the flattest AFR curve I could manage. It was far from flat, but it was as good as bandaids get. That was good for 210whp. I stepped up to 310's and it made zero more power, but I could run slightly lower fuel pressure.
YOU MUST GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. YOU MUST GET A WIDEBAND. Now you can tune on the street.
When you AFR's are as flat as you can make them on the street, get to a dyno.
Oh yeah... the Greddy fuel pressure device is archaic as far as AFPR's go. Get a used Begi 2025 from the classifieds (or buy one new), and get serious about your tune. With the Begi, you can dial in base-pressure and have an adjustable rate-of-rise on-the-fly. You don't need to swap in discs, so you can do a pull, check your shiz, and use a screwdriver to dial in more or less fuel pressure, then do another pull and check. It's really the only way to go if you're stuck with bandaids.
I ran well over 130psi at the injector for a long time before I got myself a fuel pressure gauge and actually went to a dyno. With my SR20det T25, tan-tops, Walbro 190lphHP, 02clamp, and Bipes... I ran 90-100psi fuel pressure at 14psi boost for the flattest AFR curve I could manage. It was far from flat, but it was as good as bandaids get. That was good for 210whp. I stepped up to 310's and it made zero more power, but I could run slightly lower fuel pressure.
YOU MUST GET A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. YOU MUST GET A WIDEBAND. Now you can tune on the street.
When you AFR's are as flat as you can make them on the street, get to a dyno.
Oh yeah... the Greddy fuel pressure device is archaic as far as AFPR's go. Get a used Begi 2025 from the classifieds (or buy one new), and get serious about your tune. With the Begi, you can dial in base-pressure and have an adjustable rate-of-rise on-the-fly. You don't need to swap in discs, so you can do a pull, check your shiz, and use a screwdriver to dial in more or less fuel pressure, then do another pull and check. It's really the only way to go if you're stuck with bandaids.
As a bonus, you'll be able to control any size of injector you can imagine, and don't need to fark around with the bandAIDS.
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05-25-2012, 07:23 PM
#31
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Detroit
Posts: 1,524
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It's the MT.net way. Now go get your facking shinebox!
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05-26-2012, 05:51 PM
#33
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 124
Total Cats: -160
Na, they hate because literally, they have nothing better to do lol makes them feel superior? which is weird. Because this is the internet. I dont think theyd hate NEARLY as much if it was in person. LOL
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