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Old 05-14-2007, 03:19 PM   #1
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Default Tell me about this turbo please

I have a SR20 T25 Turbo. It is a T25 Flange.

My questions are, it needs a rebuild kit, where can i find one of those?
And also, where can i get an internal wastegate?
Thank you.
also is the turbo pretty decent?
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:26 PM   #2
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gpopshop.com
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:49 PM   #3
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Thank you Braineack. I sent you a PM also. Where can i buy a wastegate for this turbo NEW or USED.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:14 PM   #4
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talk to that shop, he might find some sources...that or try ebay or sr20.net
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:24 PM   #5
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I would recommend that or the DSM 6 psi actuator. Which, either a DSM site or Ebay
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:24 PM   #6
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I am replacing my wastegate from my GT2554R with an adjustable wastategate. It is brand new. If it fits your turbo i can sell it to you.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:16 PM   #7
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Just so you've got the terminology straight, the WASTEGATE is already installed in the turbine housing, that's the little flapper door that opens up and bypasses exhaust gas around the turbine. You want the WASTEGATE ACTUATOR, the little can with the rod attached to it.

Just about any actuator will work provided you can mount it to the compressor housing in a manner that lines it up with the flapper door.

The stock WASTEGATE ACTUATOR for the SR20det T25 mounts to the front of the compressor housing. Once you clock the turbo for a Miata application, the little holes drilled in the compressor housing don't line up. You will have to fabricate your own mount and figure out how to attach it, or find a wastegate actuator that mounts to the back of the compressor housing and just drill/tap the holes.

I use a 2G DSM wastegate actuator mounted backside.
I happen to have a spare rear-mount DSM wastegate actuator for sale. You do have to bend the rod and bracket slightly so that the flapper door is held tightly closed, but you'll have to do that with any actuator that does not have an adjustable rod.
I also have a stock front mount SR20det actuator for sale.
Here's the link to the sale and a pic of my install:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...&highlight=dsm

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:38 PM   #8
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Ahh so you can clock a T25 to blow down. If dude doesn't buy your Wastegate actuator let me know I would be interested in taking it off your hands.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:31 PM   #9
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What kind of connection do I need to connect the turbo to the intercooling piping on this turbo? Also, will Corky be able to fab up a Mani/DP for this turbo, or will i need to send it in?

thrid, is this turbo water or oil cooled?
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:41 PM   #10
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First, um you'll need to find a 2 bolt outlet, ebay variety works. T25, yeah corky should be able to do that.

It's both Water and Oil cooled.
Dude, seriously if you have questions you can ask me.
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:37 PM   #11
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Where can i get a 3 bolt outlet for the turbo so i can run the IC piping? Also where can i get a 2 bolt outlet for the Air filter?
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Old 05-14-2007, 11:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dow.tom View Post
Where can i get a 3 bolt outlet for the turbo so i can run the IC piping? Also where can i get a 2 bolt outlet for the Air filter?
Tom, I am running the exact turbo you have.

The best place to buy the 3bolt outlet and 2bolt inlet (which is not for the air filter, you've still gotta run an intake pipe and your MAS sensor, then a filter) if from ATPTURBO.com. Their website really sucks, so be patient with it. You want the ALUMINUM GT28R COMPRESSOR OUTLET FLANGE on this page http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS and the GT28R INLET ADAPTER (I think it comes in 2.5" and 3" models so call them if the website is sucking, which it is right now) http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS

Corky at Begi has the Manifold and DP you need to make this turbo work:
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...ata_parts.html I run his 66025 Stainless Steel DP and the old-style T25 manifold.

Your turbo is both water cooled, and oil lubricated. The oil does have some cooling properties, but mostly the oil is there to lube the rotating assembly. You'll notice that there are 4 holes spaced evenly at 90* angles around the CHRA. 2 are for water but water can flow either direction through, doesn't matter which is IN and which is OUT and the water ports are identical. You'll have 2 more, oil inlet and oil drain. The oil drain will have a flat part and look like it fits an adapter with 2 bolts. On the opposite side of the CHRA will be the oil inlet, it's just a threaded hole with a small male inverted flare fitting inside. When in the final install clocked position, the oil inlet must face within 10* of vertical to allow proper oil out the bottom.

Dude, there are a dozen guys around here who live in the DC area. Put out a call in the BS forum and somebody would be happy to meet with you and show you how all this stuff works in person.
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Old 05-15-2007, 12:08 AM   #13
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Okay I see the oil drain, it's the adapter style looking one got that. On the oposite side is the inlet. However mine has a metal line that runs up back to where the drain is. (the line origonates where the inlet should be) Should this line be bent or is it okay where it is.
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Old 05-15-2007, 12:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dow.tom View Post
Okay I see the oil drain, it's the adapter style looking one got that. On the oposite side is the inlet. However mine has a metal line that runs up back to where the drain is. (the line origonates where the inlet should be) Should this line be bent or is it okay where it is.
You can't use that line for the oil feed. It's designed for the SR20det block and won't work for you. Post it for sale at sr20forums.com. Guys over there are always breaking theirs and looking for replacements. Read the FAQ in the DIY section. In the previous classified ad, I've also got an oil feed line for sale. You'll have to get a fitting for the block, but it comes with the inlet fitting for the turbo.
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