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Old 07-26-2017, 07:04 AM   #1  
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Default Touching Taylor Swifts bottom.

So now that Taylors been boosted for 17000 km, she has lost some of her spirit, and comps down.
I have 2 blocks in the machine shop, ones getting new rings, bearings and will be thrown back in the car for daily's / 240hp.

Other block will be built over the next few months. Currently getting a measure to see if i can hone or need to bore. Needs a helicoil.

So based on a year or two of following this site...
- 83/83.5mm wiseco pistons 8.3 comp. or is 8.6 better? how low is too low?
- Manley rods - one size fits all?
- ACL bearings - STD size for new rods?
- ARP cylinder head bolts - obviously needed.
- ARP main bolts - do i need these?
- ARP piston bolts - do i need these?

Further down the track...
- oil pump
- fuel pump

Am i on the right track? no spoon feeding required, a yes or no would help...

Eagle rods?
Being in Aus sucks, each item is like $100 shipped. Found pistons with same seller stocking eagle rods. combined shipping would be preffered.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:18 AM   #2  
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-What kind of fuel are you using? 8.6 is what I'm using
-yes
-mic the crank
-is this a question?
-would it hurt?
-what is this?

-yes
-yes

sortof
what about them?

wow
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:26 AM   #3  
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too low is when the engine will not fire up without boost
manley rods are good,
bearing size dependent on if the crank is ground undersized or not
If you use ARP main studs, check the main bore for spec
ARP piston bolts? you mean rod bolts?? if so, most aftermarket con rods come with them

Eagle rods or Manley, they are on the same level
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:42 AM   #4  
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Why are ARP cylinder head bolts "obviously" needed?

Because failure of OEM bolts is extremely common, or because lifting heads on these motors is almost guaranteed if you stick with the OEM bolts?
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:31 AM   #5  
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Studs, not bolts. My understanding is, under higher boost, the second scenario is more likely to happen. The head can lift. Stock bolts are supposed to be re-useable/not torque to yield, but not everyone has had that luck even without boost.

Otherwise studs are just nice versus bolts when you're installing the head and gasket.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:36 AM   #6  
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love the clickbait title of this thread lolz
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Old 07-26-2017, 01:26 PM   #7  
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Thats a definite "yes" to the ARP piston bolts, dont forget the piston bolts.....ever.
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Old 07-26-2017, 01:29 PM   #8  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkythesharkdogg View Post
Studs, not bolts. My understanding is, under higher boost, the second scenario is more likely to happen. The head can lift. Stock bolts are supposed to be re-useable/not torque to yield, but not everyone has had that luck even without boost.

Otherwise studs are just nice versus bolts when you're installing the head and gasket.
In the past 12 years of owning a miata and reading online. I think I have seen maybe 3-4 people who claim to be lifting their heads. I have personally reused head bolts a number of times without any issues. I think most people go with the ARP studs just as cheap insurance, along with making installing the head gasket and head a bit easier. Also if you have bad luck with motors the head studs make it easier to constantly take the head on and off.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:39 PM   #9  
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But there's plenty of people who blew headgaskets, and it's still unclear how many of those popped the HG due to stretching and lifting, so....
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Old 07-26-2017, 03:03 PM   #10  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
In the past 12 years of owning a miata and reading online. I think I have seen maybe 3-4 people who claim to be lifting their heads. I have personally reused head bolts a number of times without any issues. I think most people go with the ARP studs just as cheap insurance, along with making installing the head gasket and head a bit easier. Also if you have bad luck with motors the head studs make it easier to constantly take the head on and off.
This. I started a thread about it a while back and no one had much to say or volunteer about it.

I bet the number of people that cracked their heads due to improper torquing of ARP fasteners (I know this is hashed out and settled, but still) out numbers the people who had a failure due to the stock head bolts being inadequate.

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But there's plenty of people who blew headgaskets, and it's still unclear how many of those popped the HG due to stretching and lifting, so....
If only people would check for it. All you gotta do is measure the damn bolts, or get them checked... something. I wish there was a clear answer.
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Old 07-26-2017, 07:30 PM   #11  
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Awesome, cheers guy.
Piston bolts - meant rod bolts.

Crank looks good so probably go with STD bearings.
Now I just need to wait for the machinist to let me know if I need to go to larger pistons.

Definitely getting head bolts - due to the one helicoil. I would rather threadlock the arp studs instead of worrying about helicoil backing out etc.
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Old 07-28-2017, 12:39 PM   #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
In the past 12 years of owning a miata and reading online. I think I have seen maybe 3-4 people who claim to be lifting their heads. I have personally reused head bolts a number of times without any issues. I think most people go with the ARP studs just as cheap insurance, along with making installing the head gasket and head a bit easier. Also if you have bad luck with motors the head studs make it easier to constantly take the head on and off.
Yeah, I know where you're coming from. I personally have never had a head lift issue after reusing bolts either, and that's a fair amount head gaskets. They aren't torque to yield, so I always view them as good to go as long as they don't show any visible signs of stretch or thread weakness. However, none of those jobs were for forced induction. Just correcting warped heads after over heating incidents.

Anything I've done with forced induction/racing just went straight to ARP studs for the reasons you, me, and everyone already mentioned. They're nice and they make life easier.
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Old 07-28-2017, 05:26 PM   #13  
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Last edited by adryargument; 07-28-2017 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:21 AM   #14  
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So while waiting to build my spare motor...
I threw $240 bucks at my current one and grabbed new bearings all round + new rings + hone.
Clearances on crank were around 0.002 so everything was all good.
Kept stock rods and pistons as its just a beater motor until i build the proper 300/350whp block....
Essentially i built motor on Sat, installed Sun.

Now.. So 2 test drives, 60km on the new motor.
1. Smokes when rich, this is a first for me.... it used to just come out the catch can / bypass rings.
2. 5-10% less fuel required across the board.
2. Hit boost cutout (14.6psi 210kpa) without even going full throttle - never experienced this before! Old motor never hit it at 100% throttle.
3. No leaks!
4. Fast as **** compared to my old tired motor.
5. Hardly touched tune, just new fuel map.
6. Much grin.

All the misfiring and problems i have had with the old motor. Im putting down to losing enough compression in cyl 2 that it would no longer 100% fire every time. Also my rpm graphs were always jagged.

Note: Never back engine in oven when housemate and her 2yr old our out.. Hell to pay.


Teardown...



Reseating valves


Painting block


Heads done!


Alls back together...


And just fixing up cabling and drivetrain etc
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Old 08-31-2017, 03:31 AM   #15  
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Annnnnd i just wanted to say... ALLOFIT
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