Jgilby

Hey folks,
I'm planning on building a 1.6, maybe or swapping to a 1.8, and installing some kind of turbo on it. My goals for the build are 250 to 300 hp safely and on the go boost control. I need help deciding what turbo to get as well as what make to get (Garret, BW EFR, or Precision. Also, when you're looking at a turbo, I don't know what the numbers mean, for example BW EFR 7163 or GTX2967R. I'd really appreciate the help.

PSI

If you haven't done enough research to know that a 1.8 head wont fit on a 1.6 you have no business "slapping" a turbo on anything.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Longest lived troll ever. Patient, too.

borka

iTrader: (1)

More reading, less asking stupid basic noob questions.

Off the bat, you bought the wrong year car to turbo.

It costs minimum $6k+ to boost 250-300hp reliably.
Built engine required.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Not sure if troll. Has not apparently done any reading since last summer when first post was made and other uninformed inquiries were posted.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Understood. I went with the odds, realizing there were more than one scenario.

Jgilby

I'm not a troll. I joined the military and now that I'm done with all my training, I'm trying to get back to research and was just wondering if people had some nice opinions.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

OK, welcome back. I stand corrected. Post pics and goals, including use. What year is car? Standard procedure is to upgrade a lot of items on 1.6 cars. Many will even tell you to sell that car and start with a 94+ to avoid all of the costs and hassles of bringing the 1.6 up to snuff.

Again, how you plan to use the car, and your true goals will enter in. How much $$$ to spend? Do you have access to tools and skills to weld, or will you need bolt-ons? All those things enter into recommendations.

Sixshooter, who already came to your defense, has a pretty good listing of all the 1.6-1.8 upgrades needed to even get to 200WHP reliably.

What branch?

Jgilby

In a nutshell, I have a 92'. I've popular "High schooler upgrades such as coilovers (Raceland's), wheels and tires, a Goodwin racing exhaust and raceland headers.
Realistically, I'd like to have 250-300 whp with my 1.6. Now I know that's a lot for a 1.6 but I know that it can be done just by watching guys like MrMattman and Law on youtube. Money really isn't an issue because I want to build it right and reliably.
Goals:
-250-300 whp
-High lift cams (very hard to find)
-reliable
-have a driveline that will never break like an FD turbo 2 tranny and 3.9 torsen
- I don't want the exhaust to just be turbo noise, I like a throaty exhaust
- and last but not least, on the go boost control

These are just my goals for the build, hopefully I can get to work soon.
Marine Corps BTW YESSIR

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You will want 1.8 or aftermarket brakes, 1.8 diff and axles, 1.8 engine because of better breathing heads and intake manifold (and variable throttle position sensor not available on 1.6, and of course the cubic inches which everyone thinks is such a small thing but actually adds a thousand RPM of usable powerband when achieving 300 wheel horsepower).

Also:
Chinese forged connecting rods,
Low compression forged pistons from supermiata,
BMW transmission swap from K Miata,
Shocks that don't suck.
Supertech light double valve springs
Boundary engineering Billet oil pump
BMW stock 530i clutch or equivalent
ATI or Fluidamper
Coolant reroute


Big cams are not needed for 300 horsepower but can be readily purchased off the shelf and will require machine work to clearance the head. Most people install oversized valves as the low-hanging fruit for breathing instead of cams. But again, not even close to necessary.

1.6 and 1.8 blocks are interchangeable and since you were going to have to machine the block anyway to install forged pistons and rods there is no good reason to put a poor breathing lower quality unit of smaller displacement in the same hole. Same thing with turbo hardware. If you're going to buy a turbo kit for a 1.6 that cost the same as a 1.8 but will give you less back as a result, where is the sense in that?

We don't advise every rifleman that comes along to switch to a 1.8 because it serves our interests. It doesn't. But it does make good sense and we choose not to give bad advice to people starting out (unless they plan to try to "be a drifter", those guys can eat a bag of dicks).

MK Turbo is a good budget setup that can reach 300whp. One guy here goes 12.02 in the quarter mile using it, for reference.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Trying to imagine someone eating a bag of dicks. A dog with a bag of bullie sticks, no problem.

But yeah, I can run low 12's and I can trap 120, faster than cars in the 11's. Everyone at the track always says, "You know you would be in the 11's instantly with tires!" But I know that I need a K Miata transmission swap to do that.
You should listen to six, he knows what he is talking about.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

"High lift cams" are not a goal.

You also don't need them for your actual goals.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Someone please tell my daughter.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with that, like she would listen to one of us old farts.

Jgilby

I understand what you are saying, but even though high lift cams aren't really a goal for performance, I have always wanted them in my car.

hks_kansei

Not really hard to find at all, unless you've got your heart absolutely set on brand new billets or something, or dont want to pay for them.

Call local cam grinder, tell engine specs+use, give cams + money, collect cams ground to suit setup.



If I can have 2 cam grinders within an hours drive of me (one actually about 10mins from my house), and I live in pissy little Australia, then surely in the US you'd have HEAPS more options.

Jgilby

Cool thanks man, I didn't realize it was that easy!