Where to next?
#1
Where to next?
So this is my setup and need to what whould help. Im planning to run 10psi and what ever HP I get out of that on stock internals.
-16g T25
-Ebay mani.
-1.8 Tan top injecters
-Vortech FMU
-Innovate LC-1 Wideband
What I've orderd has been
-HKS SSQV BOV
-Water to Air Intercooler
What the question is what else should I order to be safe to run?
-16g T25
-Ebay mani.
-1.8 Tan top injecters
-Vortech FMU
-Innovate LC-1 Wideband
What I've orderd has been
-HKS SSQV BOV
-Water to Air Intercooler
What the question is what else should I order to be safe to run?
#8
I should have been more clear on this. Sorry. The car is running and is all hooked up with what I have listed but i've only drivin it in vac. and no boost due to no wideband installed yet or injectors that I have. I need to Install the intercooler that I have but was going to go a water to air for higher HP's later on. I have my timing set a 6* and is so boggy on take off.
Oh and its a internal wastegate with external dump.
Oh and its a internal wastegate with external dump.
#9
Yeah, I would not go anywhere near 10psi with the 265cc's and no timing and fuel control, that just sounds like a bad idea...
Look for a different WG actuator, I can't tell you what to look for as I am clueless, but one off of another garret turbo should work...but I don't know for sure, search...
Look for a different WG actuator, I can't tell you what to look for as I am clueless, but one off of another garret turbo should work...but I don't know for sure, search...
#10
Boost Czar
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the FMU is the fuel control...what he needs is a fuel pump to supply to required fuel when the FMU starts to raise the fuel pressures. And an o2 clamp to trick the ecu that no extra fuel is being added.
The Bipes/FMU/O2 clamp combo is a tried and true combo for low levels of boost. Where I started having issues is boosting past 10psi. The equilibrium of closed-loop and open-loop AFRs gets tricky, even with a fully adjustable FMU.
However, the cost of all the "band-aid" components seems silly, since one could build a MS and get injectors for the same.
The Bipes/FMU/O2 clamp combo is a tried and true combo for low levels of boost. Where I started having issues is boosting past 10psi. The equilibrium of closed-loop and open-loop AFRs gets tricky, even with a fully adjustable FMU.
However, the cost of all the "band-aid" components seems silly, since one could build a MS and get injectors for the same.
#13
Boost Pope
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The "cheap" option for ignition retard is going to be the Bipes ACU. Figure $225 for the unit, plus maybe $30 for a GM-style 2 bar MAP sensor. I've never liked the idea of running the Bipes in airflow mode on a 1.6- the AFM doesn't have much headroom for volumes above atmo. Link: http://miatajoe.50megs.com/afm_plot.gif
You know what's coming next...
At this point, you're getting into MegaSquirt territory. For what you'll pay for the Bipes and a Pierburg fuel pump, you could build a DIY MS-1 and buy a set of larger injectors. Plus you could then sell both your FMU and your 1.8 injectors. You're already got the wideband, which is typically one of the big cost-hurdles in a Megasquirt install, so you're ahead of the game there.
It's interesting that you have a WG actuator set for 10psi. Most of the stock ones I see are more like 5-7. Is this an internal wastegate?
You know what's coming next...
At this point, you're getting into MegaSquirt territory. For what you'll pay for the Bipes and a Pierburg fuel pump, you could build a DIY MS-1 and buy a set of larger injectors. Plus you could then sell both your FMU and your 1.8 injectors. You're already got the wideband, which is typically one of the big cost-hurdles in a Megasquirt install, so you're ahead of the game there.
It's interesting that you have a WG actuator set for 10psi. Most of the stock ones I see are more like 5-7. Is this an internal wastegate?
#14
So would it be smart to buy and build a MS with a 190lph walbro and it should take care of all my problems as for timming and fuel maybe even boost with the EBC mod?
I just built a boomslang for a emange that i have but for some reason the damn thing blinks all colors non stop and it held the injecters open so much that if flooded my engine so bad that theres gas in my oil now. This happend to the last owner but he had there wireing all f'd up. So now I just tossed that out and need to get this thing runing again.
As for a the wastegate it is an internal 2nd gen dsm turbo which is a T25 and on dsm forums it says 10 but when I got on it to see, it spiked that far and i stoped.But would an adjustable arm work the controling the flap a little open so it can't reach 10psi. Or whould that just kill the spool time on it?
I just built a boomslang for a emange that i have but for some reason the damn thing blinks all colors non stop and it held the injecters open so much that if flooded my engine so bad that theres gas in my oil now. This happend to the last owner but he had there wireing all f'd up. So now I just tossed that out and need to get this thing runing again.
As for a the wastegate it is an internal 2nd gen dsm turbo which is a T25 and on dsm forums it says 10 but when I got on it to see, it spiked that far and i stoped.But would an adjustable arm work the controling the flap a little open so it can't reach 10psi. Or whould that just kill the spool time on it?
#15
it would kill the spool time, or at least bump it up a good 500-700rpm from my experience anyway.
I would urge you to choose something other than the FMU and junk.
With the FMU, you need a pump, need a timing controller, need an o2 clamp of some sort and you've spent a ton of money on all that and you still cant *really* tune it.
if you went with (just for an example) some bigger injectors and an AEM F/IC, you've got your o2 taken care of, fuel, and ignition for less than you'd spend on all the other random stuff.
You could also do an EMU, or if you've got the patience, a MS unit.
I would urge you to choose something other than the FMU and junk.
With the FMU, you need a pump, need a timing controller, need an o2 clamp of some sort and you've spent a ton of money on all that and you still cant *really* tune it.
if you went with (just for an example) some bigger injectors and an AEM F/IC, you've got your o2 taken care of, fuel, and ignition for less than you'd spend on all the other random stuff.
You could also do an EMU, or if you've got the patience, a MS unit.
#18
Boost Pope
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Assuming appropriately sized injectors, you will be just fine on the stock fuel pump- no need for even a Walbro, and certainly no need for an FMU.
That's the idea. I'm still using my old MBC for boost, but several folks here have EBC up and running.
It sounds to me like the diaphragm on your WG can might just be shot. You really ought to test it with a source of controllable pressure, like a hand-operated vacuum pump- the kind you use for bleeding brakes and testing MAP sensors. Most of 'em will produce boost if you flip the hose around to the discharge port on the top. If you can't produce enough pressure with one of those to move the rod, the can is dead.
and it should take care of all my problems as for timming and fuel maybe even boost with the EBC mod?
As for a the wastegate it is an internal 2nd gen dsm turbo which is a T25 and on dsm forums it says 10 but when I got on it to see, it spiked that far and i stoped.
#19
So now I went over somethings and what looks to be the best route is to run this setup
-10psi. or thread the rod to open flap a little to maybe 7-8
-Air to Air (starion intercooler)
-Build a Megasquirt
-Supra 305cc (big enough?)
-LC-1 Innovate WB
-Cat delete (it's a cali. cat and thought it was to retrictive for the turbo)
And also where is the thread that has the pricing for Braineack to build a megasquirt
-10psi. or thread the rod to open flap a little to maybe 7-8
-Air to Air (starion intercooler)
-Build a Megasquirt
-Supra 305cc (big enough?)
-LC-1 Innovate WB
-Cat delete (it's a cali. cat and thought it was to retrictive for the turbo)
And also where is the thread that has the pricing for Braineack to build a megasquirt