unuseful turbo information
1. No matter how 'well made' a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust is, they will never be able to flow enough air to produce large amounts of power (500+whp).
2. Read up on how pressure differential across the turbine affects boost threshold and power production. (Hint: It has everything to do with both).
3. As for oil burning due to lack of pressure. I can see that being an outside possibility, but frankly if there is so much pressure in the exhaust that it is keeping back the oil AT IDLE, then you have a serious ******* problem.
4. The theory that wastegates rely on exhaust backpressure to control boost is somewhat founded, but incorrectly interpreted. Yes, having higher backpressure will make a smaller wastegate better able to control boost, and once you free up the exhaust you will encounter spikes and creep. But as EVERY SINGLE ******* PERSON in this thread has pointed out, the issue is resolved by simply RUNNING AN ADEQUATELY SIZED WASTEGATE. The sad truth of the matter is that cars, no matter how well they were originally engineered, tend to be finalized by accountants. Internal wastegates are a. more economical to package, b. cheaper to produce than full on external setups and c. adequate for stock power levels most of the time.
The holes are just too small to control boost in a performance setting.
It seems to me that the author of that article is essentially stating that a stock piece of equipment should be perfectly adequate to handle increased power output without issue. This is bullshit. If that were the case, all turbocharged cars should come with 2600+lb pressure plates (or twin discs) forged cranks, rods, oil pump gears, and pistons. Heavy as ****, shotpeened, cryotreated gears and 9" differentials.
But they don't.
2. Read up on how pressure differential across the turbine affects boost threshold and power production. (Hint: It has everything to do with both).
3. As for oil burning due to lack of pressure. I can see that being an outside possibility, but frankly if there is so much pressure in the exhaust that it is keeping back the oil AT IDLE, then you have a serious ******* problem.
4. The theory that wastegates rely on exhaust backpressure to control boost is somewhat founded, but incorrectly interpreted. Yes, having higher backpressure will make a smaller wastegate better able to control boost, and once you free up the exhaust you will encounter spikes and creep. But as EVERY SINGLE ******* PERSON in this thread has pointed out, the issue is resolved by simply RUNNING AN ADEQUATELY SIZED WASTEGATE. The sad truth of the matter is that cars, no matter how well they were originally engineered, tend to be finalized by accountants. Internal wastegates are a. more economical to package, b. cheaper to produce than full on external setups and c. adequate for stock power levels most of the time.
The holes are just too small to control boost in a performance setting.
It seems to me that the author of that article is essentially stating that a stock piece of equipment should be perfectly adequate to handle increased power output without issue. This is bullshit. If that were the case, all turbocharged cars should come with 2600+lb pressure plates (or twin discs) forged cranks, rods, oil pump gears, and pistons. Heavy as ****, shotpeened, cryotreated gears and 9" differentials.
But they don't.
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running 3" catless system on the mazdaspeed 3 greatly increases your chances of smoking at idle due to oil leaking from seals (i did but found ways to fix/hide it)...but that is because of the shitty turbo. guys who slap on a garrett turbo never have that issue.
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BECAUSE ITS NOT ******* TRUE, THATS WHY
There is an extraordinary amount of misinformation on the web about turbocharging and engine performance in general. Misinformation is not allowed on this forum, so if everybody is telling you that the **** you read on jdmsrt4forum.org is wrong, just accept it until you actually understand what youre talking about (its clear at this time that youre still learning)
There is an extraordinary amount of misinformation on the web about turbocharging and engine performance in general. Misinformation is not allowed on this forum, so if everybody is telling you that the **** you read on jdmsrt4forum.org is wrong, just accept it until you actually understand what youre talking about (its clear at this time that youre still learning)
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 115
Total Cats: -12
From: Glasgow, Scotland, U.K.
yep its me the dose guy that was something i found on youtube not something i nor many associates practice!
yep iam learning and still researching hey i helped someone clock their turbo on the next thread down so i must be storing what iam learning.
the more i read into turboing my car the more expensive its getting what with external wastegates :(
yep iam learning and still researching hey i helped someone clock their turbo on the next thread down so i must be storing what iam learning.
the more i read into turboing my car the more expensive its getting what with external wastegates :(
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 574
From: Fake Virginia
I have had a 3" exhaust on my turbo car for like 40,000 miles or so and my car dont smoke at alllllll. ask braineack. he can vouch.
edit: also my large wastegate means I never boost spike. I sealed up the lame internal gate and put on a tial external.
edit: also my large wastegate means I never boost spike. I sealed up the lame internal gate and put on a tial external.
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Basically, the big espense is a T3 manifold w/ flange for EWG.
Then get a small chinese T3 on ebay and an ebay (XSpower) EWG, replace the spring in the WG with a Tial spring and now you have a good wastegate on the cheap.
Then just figure out a downpipe and a dump tube for the WG (dump tubes are hella cool)
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I started two different long explanations that I never got to post because my work laptop keeps crashing. I'm not putting forth the effort again. Google it and read more just like we all did as newbs. I'm tired.
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