Originally Posted by braineack
(Post 46725)
Did you call Corky about couplers yet? He has the prices on the web:
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_hose.html Thanks for the link. |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 46756)
Is there really such thing as stainless zip ties?
I used high-tech method of wraping the hoses with plain 'ol wire. You could also just use a worm type hose clamp, they're cheap enough. |
Originally Posted by getsidewaysd1
(Post 46761)
How come I see miata people place there bov on the hot side of there intercooler piping? Everything I have ever read, learned, or see the bov is ALWAYS on the cold side?
My setup allows me to switch the bov to the other side if necessary with a 6" piece of thin-wall steel pipe, a bov flange, and 30 seconds of welding. With this, I could rotate the bov 90* and it's a straight shot back to the intake pipe. Some revelant info from TurboByGarrett: "The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped)." Do you think the turbo sees any difference? |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 46756)
I thought you were going to reveal some kind of speed secret to keep plastic from metling. ;) Is there really such thing as stainless zip ties?
I used to have some but used all of them. They are pricey, but good for heat prone areas or if you want the bling. |
Originally Posted by UofACATS
(Post 46770)
Do you think the turbo sees any difference?
Theoretically, I guess the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out, but I can't imagine it making a difference at reasonable boost levels. YMMV. |
Yeow- that's pricey. I still have some stainless steel lashing wire (telco grade) that's like safety wire... and it's free. That's what I've used up to this point. But I can definitely see some good use for those ss zip ties.
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Volvo used to have the BOV built into the comp housing. SAAB 900's had the BOV on both ends depending upon yr...They all seemed to work fine...
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/\ That's what i'm talking about. Both sides seem definitive, then along comes an example that legitimately contradicts it. I think the most logical viewpoint is from brgracer:
"the further from the TB the bov is, the longer the pressure wave has to travel after reflecting off the throttle plate to get out" This is what I tend to agree with, as the wave has to pass through the I/C. Although, wont the I/C slow/soften or at least disrupt the "shockwave" of air? Either way, with a BOV somewhere in the system, I can't see the turbo being adversely affected. |
Originally Posted by brgracer
(Post 46784)
I can't imagine it making a difference at reasonable boost levels.
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Originally Posted by UofACATS
(Post 46857)
This is the right answer for me. I guess once you hit 30 lbs, you can just run two :)
LOL! |
Are you recirulating it? If so you can argue the double-pass through the intercooler. ;)
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it looks as though your BOV could just be moved over and swapped with the pipe at the tb- no?
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That does seem plausible.
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Both my turbo Miata and my turbo OTM (Jetta 2.0T FSI) use bypass valve assemblies built into the compressor housing, FWIW.
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 46913)
it looks as though your BOV could just be moved over and swapped with the pipe at the tb- no?
Originally Posted by UofACATS
(Post 46770)
My setup allows me to switch the bov to the other side if necessary with a 6" piece of thin-wall steel pipe, a bov flange, and 30 seconds of welding. With this, I could rotate the bov 90* and it's a straight shot back to the intake pipe.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...6&d=1158976562 (TB side here) With the BOV mounted so it points straight down on the left side, I could put a nice, easy 90* bend under the radiator hose, then it's a nice straight shot across and back into the intake pipe. |
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
(Post 46913)
it looks as though your BOV could just be moved over and swapped with the pipe at the tb- no?
-t/b side: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...3&d=1159467025 -hose attach: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...4&d=1159467182 -bov flange: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...5&d=1159467214 |
leave it, it doesn't really matter. You have BOV at least.
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I had that turbo on my old 95 GSX. Great turbo. I'd love a ride once you get it all done. I'll probably be putting a FM kit on in the next year or so. Im not liking a lot of the stuff they are doing though, so I might just get their exhaust manifold and turbo.
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Originally Posted by stinkonamonkey
(Post 47088)
I had that turbo on my old 95 GSX. Great turbo. I'd love a ride once you get it all done. I'll probably be putting a FM kit on in the next year or so. Im not liking a lot of the stuff they are doing though, so I might just get their exhaust manifold and turbo.
As for the T28, as long as it's rocking by 4K i'm good. FP sure knows how to make em. I dig what BEGI is doing these days. (right behind the self torturous yet somehow rewarding way of the DIY kit.) Have a good one dude. I have your contact info, i'll let you know. Noah. |
Today I hooked up a wastegate "spring" (a la someone here I forget who) I'm stalling on pulling and tapping the compressor housing to attach the wastegate actuator, and I managed to find this spring laying around. My actuator rod also has to be cut and re-welded at a different angle. The bracket holding the spring is the MAF bracket, so this is free until I do something about it. It feels a lot easier to extend than does my 8lb wastegate, so it might give me half that.
I was going to hook up my boost gauge from another car, but I forgot it's also a turbo timer, which has a vehicle-specific harness, which means more trouble than it's worth. I'll just buy a gauge. Oh well, wanted to see vacuum at idle as well. https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...0&d=1159572634 |
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