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Old 05-08-2007, 07:36 PM   #1
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Default What can I install and still keep the car on the road?

My car is a daily driver and I want to minimize down time during the turbo build. I'm thinking a lot of what needs doing can be done before hand a little bit at a time. What can be installed while keeping the car driveable?

I'm thinking...

Fuel pump
BEGI FPR
Mount Intercooler and start running pipes back
Bipes
O2 Clamp
Remove stock airbox and replace with open element (will be reused with turbo installed)
Dual feed rail
Exhaust and race cat
Reposition cruise controller
Install misc. heat sheilding.
Clutch
Timing belt kit/ water pump

That leaves installing the mani, turbo, dp, final intercooler pipes, tuning, busted knuckles and lots of swearing.

I'm sure I've got to be missing a bunch. What am I leaving out. Are any of the pre-turbo projects going to cause problems with driveability? Without boost the bipes, fpr and O2 clamp will basically sit idle won't they?

Help and suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:40 PM   #2
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what else do you have...nothing listed will do anything without boost (besides the bipes, but that's nothing to worry about)
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:44 PM   #3
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I would definately do the clutch first. Without a lift, it's by far the hardest item to install. Plus you can get started breaking it in while you're doing the other stuff.
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:49 PM   #4
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Yeah clutch and water pump/timing belt are the hardest, might as well get them out of the way first. List looks good to me.
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:02 PM   #5
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Thanks for the input.

I figured I must be missing something obvious and wanted to have some other people check out my list. Clutch and timing belt are definetely tough. Might be paying a shade tree guy to get these done.

Most of the other projects can be done in small bites I should be able to handle myself.
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:05 PM   #6
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Default Tap the oil pan and install the oil return and feed lines pre-turbo

There's several reasons for doing this first before attempting the turbo
1) Gives extra time to focus on the scary task of drilling a big hole in your oil pan.
2) It's helpful to work out any possible oil leaks pre-turbo.
3) having the plugs for the oil lines allows you to de-turbo if required later in the install / fabrication process.

Plug the return line with an appropriate sized bolt and clamp.


Plug the feed line with a spare fitting plugged with JB weld.
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:14 PM   #7
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Yes! A good idea I can use.

Thanks!
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Old 05-08-2007, 11:14 PM   #8
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Prior to the turbo actually going in I did (over a couple of months):

- fitted up all gauges - boost, oil temp, stoich.
- fitted up the FMIC
- replaced the clutch and all associated hardware
- replaced timing belt and water pump
- installed LSD
- replaced radiator and coolant
- general service and checkup to make sure she was turbo ready
- installed EManage but no map installed
- modded RX7 AFM with MX5 internals but did not install.

Over about 6 weeks (but could have been done in three as my fabricator was time poor) I:

- removed headers and exhaust, to trial fit turbo
- measured up and installed all custom SS intake piping
- fitted up turbo and modified dumppipe
- installed new injectors, O2 clamp
- installed AFM, and fabricated new intake
- measured up and fitted custom SS exhaust
- modded parts of exhaust to remove minor rattles
- installed EManage map, test drive and initial dyno tune

Last things to do are:

- final dyno session to revise and finalise tune setup
- dual fuel rail

That's it - I could have minimised the off road time had we done the final install in half the time, but wasn't off the road so long that it was an inconvenience.
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Old 05-09-2007, 01:36 PM   #9
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Arthur,

You mentioned one group of items I forgot. Gauges. Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:31 PM   #10
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Tapping the pan is a good idea... do it on your next oil change.
I'd wait to install the feed line though... much easier to do with noting in the way, like the stock header.

All the stuff you listed in your first post was exactly (except for 02clamp and cc reposition). Don't forget a new fuel filter, colder spark plugs, and a fuel pressure gauge.
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Old 05-09-2007, 06:25 PM   #11
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Thanks Sam,

"All the stuff you listed in your first post was exactly (except for 02clamp and cc reposition)." ?

was exactly what? What you did? What you'd recommend?

Fuel filter and plugs are good reminders. Do I really NEED to install a fuel pressure gauge or is this just a good idea? That's something I hadn't planned on. If it's just a good idea I'll have to look at the cost/ benefit thing.
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cueball1 View Post
Thanks Sam,
"All the stuff you listed in your first post was exactly (except for 02clamp and cc reposition)." ?
was exactly what? What you did? What you'd recommend?
Fuel filter and plugs are good reminders. Do I really NEED to install a fuel pressure gauge or is this just a good idea? That's something I hadn't planned on. If it's just a good idea I'll have to look at the cost/ benefit thing.
Crap, I got ahead of myself... fill in above "...was exactly what I did prior to my full install (except for...)."

I didn't have an 02 clamp until later and I have no CC.

A fuel pressure gauge in conjunction with an WB02 is your most accurate way of tuning w/o a piggyback or standalone you can hook up to a laptop. A lot of people get away w/o a FPG, and just assume that if they've got a flat A/F, they're doing something right. Based on what I'm seeing in some other posts that are going on right now and the calculations at the RC website, it takes about 10-12psi to make 200whp in this car with a good tune. You can do that with about 100-120psi with the 1.8injectors, or at about 90-110psi with 305's.

My experiments with the 2nd bleed valve on my AFPR is something that I could verify with my gauge. It'll be interesting to do back-to-back runs on the dyno and see just how big a change in A/F I get with 5psi less at max boost. It's very Nice-To-Know information and gives you one more variable to adjust.

If you're already installing a Dual Feed Rail, instead of using a T to make your split, use an X at the split, and mount the gauge there. You can see in the pic below that I T-off my gauge before the T for the dual feed. It's not the smoothest flowing setup, but you've inspired me to go back to my hydraulic store and fix it. Parts needed to dual feed are 4xbarbs (3 for X fitting and 1 for rail), 1xXfitting, 1xgauge, 3 feet of fuel line, small nylon hose and 2xquick-connect fittings(or you can screw the gauge directly into the Xfitting but it'll be hard to read as it will probably point down). I pay $8 for my gauges at my local hydraulic store. Total outlay for the whole thing, maybe $30.

The yellow circle in the pic is where my gauge used to be, now it's mounted here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...2&d=1178686243

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 05-10-2007, 02:13 AM   #13
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Sam,

Awshum advice and directions! Sounds well worth the few bucks to install the fuel pressure gauge. Using the x fitting is a great idea. Like most simple solutions, it's inspired by realizing things are more complex than they need to be. That's what makes this site great. We newbs get to benefit from earlier trial and error.

The 200 hp goal is what I'm after. Something about that number just sounds right. If I end up short of that at the wheels I'll just quote people hp at the crank. I've got cleaned 305's to use. I'll be installing them at the same time I do the dual feed rail. Good to know I'm looking for around 100psi with these parts and goals.

Looking at your signature, we've got pretty similar systems. AGX w/ GC's, Autopower roll, stg 2 clutch, BEGI mani & afpr, 305's, bipes, walbro 190. I'm using a T3 and I've got a loaded C package so mines as heavy as miatas get. How did you like the change with the heavier sways? That's my next move planned for the chassis/ suspension.

PS. Glad you got your name back.

Last edited by cueball1; 05-10-2007 at 02:20 AM. Reason: missed thought
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