My set up is in my sig.

When i drive hard, my wideband tells me that im at 10.. then to 11.. then 12 point something.My truboost is set at 6psi.. sometimes hits 7 and 8.

Granted, i still have a cat... What fmu ratio disc can i use to give my car more power?


AND, when i drive hard and pop out of gear so i can come to a rolling stop, my RPMS drop fast and sometimes my car dies. What could be causing this?

i do have a 7lb fidanza flywheel if that makes any difference.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

 

Maybe adjusting the idle screw will help. Just jumper Ten and GND and play with the idle screw a bit and see if that helps.

 

thanks for the adjustment tip.. anyone have any input on my afr ?

 

Your A/F is problay leaning out if you are getting boost creep (like you said you were). 10 is way rich, you want it around 11.8 to 1 under boost. As for the rpms, check for any vaccume leaks. If there are none, then adjust your idle! OH, it could be that you put on 1.8 injectors without adjusting the AFM. Acually, thats problay it.



Also, with a 12:1 disc, you are maxing out your stock fuel pump. Usually that happenes at around 75 PSI. Get a high pressure pump, and like a 6 to 1 disc. That will give you about 90 PSI fuel presure, which would allow about 7-8 psi boost.

 

Install that fuel pump already!

 

if you install a 190HP pump and don't swap out a smaller vortec disc, expect > 10:1.


flywheel causes the sudden rpm drops, you can try to tune it out with your idle screw, however, that's one of reasons I got rid of mine.

 

12:1 AFR is great, your tip in accel fuel is too rich at 10:1 AFR. Adding a bigger fuel pump isn't going to improve that, you should consider moving to a more precise method of tuning, ie standalone or programmable ecu.

 

you're probably stalling because of your BOV.

 

ok.. so i have 3 suggestions.

1) i didnt adjust my afm for my 1.8 injectors
2) my flywheel
3) My blow off valve

how would i adjust my afm for my injectors?

ive noticed dips in my rpm when i was na after i installed the flywheel... but it never killed my car like it does now

and how can my bov cause my car to die?

THANKS!

 

The bov might be leaking air under heavy vacuum causing the engine to suck in unmetered air. You might be able to tighten/loosen up your IAC valve to make it respond differently when coming to a stop.
You can adjust the clock spring a few clicks to adjust for the 1.8s. Do a search, this procedure is well documented on the forum. Though i don't have a link.

 

For teh record, I have the 7lb flywheel and I havent had problems with it, works great!

 

I have the same problem. And today when i was idling i turned my interior lights on and my car started idling at like 150rpms, like it was dieing i had to keep revving it so it didnt die on me. Would that be that my battery is going or my alternator?

 

I've had a bad idle dip problem that I solved by doing a boost leak test and fixing all the leaks. The flywheel will cause your idle to drop more than usual.

 

So your saying i should get a lighter flywheel?

 

if you want your car to stall instead of dip slightly...

 

lol, it does pretty much stall already, no clue why...its pissing me off though.

 

Try setting your base idle to something like 1000 rpms. Mine is set to 950 and I don't have a lightened flywheel, although I just now bolted the Fidanza on

 

ya but it idles good when its just idling but when i turn on the lights the idle just drops battery?

 

ive been searching and i found some threads about setting my idle?

its says to jump the ground and ten in the diagnostic box. does anyone have anymore input on this? thanks!

 

I would suspect the IAC if your idle drops when you turn on the lights. It's actually supposed go up a little bit.

On the drivers side of the engine bay near the top of the shock there is a little black box. That is the diag box. Jump the terminals with a bent up paperclip.