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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-25-2007, 10:26 PM   #1
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Default what do i do from here on?

My set up is in my sig.

When i drive hard, my wideband tells me that im at 10.. then to 11.. then 12 point something.My truboost is set at 6psi.. sometimes hits 7 and 8.

Granted, i still have a cat... What fmu ratio disc can i use to give my car more power?


AND, when i drive hard and pop out of gear so i can come to a rolling stop, my RPMS drop fast and sometimes my car dies. What could be causing this?

i do have a 7lb fidanza flywheel if that makes any difference.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:31 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by flyineunos View Post
AND, when i drive hard and pop out of gear so i can come to a rolling stop, my RPMS drop fast and sometimes my car dies. What could be causing this?

i do have a 7lb fidanza flywheel if that makes any difference.
Maybe adjusting the idle screw will help. Just jumper Ten and GND and play with the idle screw a bit and see if that helps.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:11 PM   #3
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thanks for the adjustment tip.. anyone have any input on my afr ?
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyineunos View Post
My set up is in my sig.

When i drive hard, my wideband tells me that im at 10.. then to 11.. then 12 point something.My truboost is set at 6psi.. sometimes hits 7 and 8.

Granted, i still have a cat... What fmu ratio disc can i use to give my car more power?


AND, when i drive hard and pop out of gear so i can come to a rolling stop, my RPMS drop fast and sometimes my car dies. What could be causing this?

i do have a 7lb fidanza flywheel if that makes any difference.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Your A/F is problay leaning out if you are getting boost creep (like you said you were). 10 is way rich, you want it around 11.8 to 1 under boost. As for the rpms, check for any vaccume leaks. If there are none, then adjust your idle! OH, it could be that you put on 1.8 injectors without adjusting the AFM. Acually, thats problay it.



Also, with a 12:1 disc, you are maxing out your stock fuel pump. Usually that happenes at around 75 PSI. Get a high pressure pump, and like a 6 to 1 disc. That will give you about 90 PSI fuel presure, which would allow about 7-8 psi boost.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:14 PM   #5
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Install that fuel pump already!
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:20 PM   #6
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if you install a 190HP pump and don't swap out a smaller vortec disc, expect > 10:1.


flywheel causes the sudden rpm drops, you can try to tune it out with your idle screw, however, that's one of reasons I got rid of mine.
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:05 AM   #7
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12:1 AFR is great, your tip in accel fuel is too rich at 10:1 AFR. Adding a bigger fuel pump isn't going to improve that, you should consider moving to a more precise method of tuning, ie standalone or programmable ecu.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:54 AM   #8
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you're probably stalling because of your BOV.
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:37 PM   #9
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ok.. so i have 3 suggestions.

1) i didnt adjust my afm for my 1.8 injectors
2) my flywheel
3) My blow off valve

how would i adjust my afm for my injectors?

ive noticed dips in my rpm when i was na after i installed the flywheel... but it never killed my car like it does now

and how can my bov cause my car to die?

THANKS!
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Old 11-26-2007, 08:40 PM   #10
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The bov might be leaking air under heavy vacuum causing the engine to suck in unmetered air. You might be able to tighten/loosen up your IAC valve to make it respond differently when coming to a stop.
You can adjust the clock spring a few clicks to adjust for the 1.8s. Do a search, this procedure is well documented on the forum. Though i don't have a link.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:04 PM   #11
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For teh record, I have the 7lb flywheel and I havent had problems with it, works great!
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyineunos View Post

AND, when i drive hard and pop out of gear so i can come to a rolling stop, my RPMS drop fast and sometimes my car dies. What could be causing this?

i do have a 7lb fidanza flywheel if that makes any difference.
I have the same problem. And today when i was idling i turned my interior lights on and my car started idling at like 150rpms, like it was dieing i had to keep revving it so it didnt die on me. Would that be that my battery is going or my alternator?
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:30 PM   #13
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I've had a bad idle dip problem that I solved by doing a boost leak test and fixing all the leaks. The flywheel will cause your idle to drop more than usual.
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryceness View Post
I've had a bad idle dip problem that I solved by doing a boost leak test and fixing all the leaks. The flywheel will cause your idle to drop more than usual.
So your saying i should get a lighter flywheel?
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by miataz View Post
So your saying i should get a lighter flywheel?
if you want your car to stall instead of dip slightly...
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:31 AM   #16
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lol, it does pretty much stall already, no clue why...its pissing me off though.
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:41 AM   #17
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Try setting your base idle to something like 1000 rpms. Mine is set to 950 and I don't have a lightened flywheel, although I just now bolted the Fidanza on
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:54 AM   #18
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ya but it idles good when its just idling but when i turn on the lights the idle just drops battery?
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:31 AM   #19
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ive been searching and i found some threads about setting my idle?

its says to jump the ground and ten in the diagnostic box. does anyone have anymore input on this? thanks!
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:34 AM   #20
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I would suspect the IAC if your idle drops when you turn on the lights. It's actually supposed go up a little bit.

On the drivers side of the engine bay near the top of the shock there is a little black box. That is the diag box. Jump the terminals with a bent up paperclip.
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