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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-08-2007, 09:09 PM   #1
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Default Where would you go from here?

With the introduction of the new, cheap, and frankly amazing begi s-series kit going FI seems to be easier than ever. I have already heard a few people saying that this is the best thing to start with and I would have to agree due to the manifold, turbo, and the big parts.

I posted in thesnowboarder's thread, but didn't want to completely jack it. I wanted to know the main differences between the s-series and s-1 kits, and braineack has already pointed out most of them (no intercooler, no coolant reroute, no t-clamps, no divorced wategate). What I was wondering was how important a few of these things are. Like with the downpipe, would it be worth trying to upgrade it to the divorced style, or are the advantages minimal. And the coolant re-route, is that important? Doesn't it clear space for the manifold and other pieces, or is that not really needed either.

Seeing as this kit would be a great base to start from, how would you guys set it up? Options with the kit (gt2560, gt2860, SS downpipe, ceramic parts)? Would you get this, then an e-bay intercooler? custom fab? mspnp? I'm just curious as to where some people would go from this kit, plus I'm pumped that there is finally a cheap'ish 1.8 kit and I have another chance to go FI.
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:41 PM   #2
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Have you priced that kit versus the kit you want?
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:50 PM   #3
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I'd grab the S kit, and then upgrade everything else before jumping to a big power setup. Do the clutch, get a big radiator, a Torsen rear for the 1.6 guys, and an oil cooler/reroute for the track crew. Then invest in an MSPNP/LC-1/injectors and sell the FPR. Add an intercooler and a 3" exhaust, and you've got yourself a nice 220whp kit.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:11 PM   #4
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For those of us already with a clutch, torsen, MS awaiting installation, injectors, wideband, full 2.5" exhaust...what would you recommend? lol
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Old 11-08-2007, 11:09 PM   #5
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Order their S3 kit without electronics or an FPR, if you have the cash. If you don't, $1300 will get you oil/water lines, manifold, divorced wastegate DP, and a $300 budget for a new journal-bearing, or a used ball-bearing turbo. Add an intercooler and a BOV to that, and you'll have 220whp.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:00 AM   #6
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So, any opinions on options for the s-series if one were to go with that? (ss, ceramic, gt25, 28)
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:03 AM   #7
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Ceramic the mani, get the stainless downpipe, upgrade to the 28, though the 25 is still a damn good turbo if you want kickass fast boost with a power limit of like 230-250(?).
Tell them you don't want the RRFPR, you can do an IC later. Go MS right from the start.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:19 AM   #8
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Would the 28 only be if you plan of building the motor? Don't the stock internals pop at about 250whp or so?
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:22 AM   #9
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If you want to stay stock internals forever get the 2554 or 2560. There is a very current thread on the turbo differences. I can't speak from experience though.
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:42 AM   #10
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After i get my torsen swap, i plan on going this same route, as for which DP, turbo, and ceramic coating parts i want is still up in the air since that wont be for a few months for me, but i would like to know the same questions you have. As for jacking my threads i dont care lol but ill sure be reading up on this one
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:10 AM   #11
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Heh thanks, well you'll probably be turbo before me as I'm just looking into options to see how much $$ I will need, and what route to take after almost having a voodoo II setup and then having to sell it to replace my wrecked 97 .

And on the 28 vs 25, this seems like a damn hard decision, and in the end I'll bet that the potato (28) would be better as it allows more headroom, but the response of the 25 would probably be more fun in some situations, plus I can't see me building my engine for a long time. Err.
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:32 AM   #12
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Do the 25. If I were doing a 28, it would be a 2871R, controlled with an EWG, and bolted to a $2k Belfab/Wiesco bottom end. 400whp on meth and racegas, anyone?
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:07 AM   #13
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Man being young and poor sucks.

And savington, do you ever sleep?
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:08 AM   #14
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No.
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Old 11-09-2007, 09:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedf50 View Post
Heh thanks, well you'll probably be turbo before me as I'm just looking into options to see how much $$ I will need, and what route to take after almost having a voodoo II setup and then having to sell it to replace my wrecked 97 .

And on the 28 vs 25, this seems like a damn hard decision, and in the end I'll bet that the potato (28) would be better as it allows more headroom, but the response of the 25 would probably be more fun in some situations, plus I can't see me building my engine for a long time. Err.
Have you spent much time in a turbo miata? 200 hp is pretty damn fun.
Not as fun as 300 though i'm sure.
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Old 11-09-2007, 10:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Have you spent much time in a turbo miata? 200 hp is pretty damn fun.
Not as fun as 300 though i'm sure.
I'm probably just shy of 200hp, and it's plenty fun
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Old 11-09-2007, 10:50 AM   #17
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get the base kit and do your own IC and piping (fleabay) do the exhaust all the way and upgrade the rest of your car, ie drivetrain, fuel, and then you'll know what your next step will be
budget about $2500 and your good
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Old 11-09-2007, 11:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Order their S3 kit without electronics or an FPR,
He's in CA, so he needs to order a "complete" kit so that he can get the CARB sticker.

Apparently the only thing standing between the new kit and a CARB sticker under D-349-1 is a fuel pump (brand not specified, you could simply claim a Walbro) and ignition control device (Bipes, whatever...) and the mysterious "Supplementary Fuel Injectors" which Steph has alluded to being available as needed. An intercooler is optional.

Regarding the differences in this kit...

A coolant re-route is not necessary unless you're actually tracking the car. Not AutoX, but honest-to-god trackdays.

Intercoolers are nice. They can also be put together for a lot less than Bell would charge you.

Divorced WG downpipe... Hard to say. They theory is sound, and I'm sure there is improvement. But of everyone on this entire board (except for Tim) how many of us are running one?

sound of crickets chirping

Right.


Seriously- I'd go for it. If this had been out a year and a half ago, my sig would read "2554" instead of "TD04H".
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Divorced WG downpipe... Hard to say. They theory is sound, and I'm sure there is improvement. But of everyone on this entire board (except for Tim) how many of us are running one?

sound of crickets chirping

Right.
I have one, and I use the extra efficiency/performance every single day.:gay: Plus, it's pretty.

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Old 11-09-2007, 12:42 PM   #20
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I still don't understand why they would install the wideband bungs on the bottom of the pipe. Unless they didn't expect people to use the wideband bung anywhere but the dyno.
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