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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-09-2007, 12:44 PM   #21
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It didn't make sense to me either. Luckily my car isn't that low, but I still hit the o2 sensor enough times to get a new bung welded higher up on the side.
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:31 PM   #22
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I've got a divorced DP as well. I even had them step it up to 3", vs the normal 2.75" that they use.

Honestly, for a twisties car, I almost prefer 6-8psi. If you want a car that will spin 2nd gear depending on pavement surface and air temperature, 220-230whp is great, but it's easy to keep tabs on 160-180 and you're still going damn fast.
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Old 11-10-2007, 03:12 AM   #23
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I always forget just how much more power than stock we are talking about. With that in mind, I guess a 6-8psi setup would be ideal for me to start with, as I have still never gotten a turbo miata ride (both times the guy had one seat!), and it would be upgradeable to 200+ with the right fuel and engine management.

With that said, I think I'm going to start selling anything I can to get the s-series with the ceramic mani and ss downpipe as soon as possible. Plus I still have a bipes, voodoo box, and 305's (although they were never cleaned). So a respectable band aid setup, no? I'd just need to do the IC, and maybe clutch, although I have a new exedy stock replacement with 1500 miles on it, it might be ok for a while at the stock 5 or 6 psi right?
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Old 11-10-2007, 10:38 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedf50 View Post
So, any opinions on options for the s-series if one were to go with that? (ss, ceramic, gt25, 28)
Ask Corky about the S-kit with a T3S60 compressor and a .48 A/R turbine sleeve bearing turbo. That's how I would want my low buck S kit configured. It doesn't cost more from Corky's standpoint to build it, since he does most everything in low volume to begin with.

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Old 11-10-2007, 11:17 AM   #25
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Just wait for scott to get back with his dyno from the dyno day to see how he does with his t3s60 (I think he has a .63 housing). We are hoping he puts down over 250whp with the 3" exhaust and the headwork I did.
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Old 11-15-2007, 04:17 AM   #26
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Well they have posted up their IC option prices, and from what I can tell its quite reasonable. $645 for the IC kit and water bypass to make it all fit nice and pretty.

It would probably be cheaper to go with the DIY fleabay IC setup, but I remember hearing people spending up to $500 on various needed bits and pieces for the diy setup, so the BEGi kit which will definitely fit correctly doesn't sound like that bad of a deal.

And would anyone trust the stock clutch with 150whp?
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Old 11-15-2007, 04:40 AM   #27
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150 on the stock clutch is very close to the limit, but fine.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:42 AM   #28
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Ok, i have been in the same boat as you for a long time now. I found out the Begi kit is still somewhat overpriced. Here is my list of my turbo build that i have been creating for the past 3 days. My main Goal was 230-250HP. If you wish to stay at ~150HP the Begi kit is for you.

My total is just under 2000. The current items that are missing are Injectors and Intercooler piping. Notice, this contains a MSPNP, if you decide to go with a bandaid kit, the total price will be a little less.

Separated Downpipes are Proven to work. I come from the 300zx crowd which has had the downpipe revolution a few years back. It is VERY rare to find a downpipe for a 300zx that is not separated now-a-days.
I have NO idea why no one is using the downpipe i have listed and having a shop weld in the easy part. I hope it will work, as it should.

How i compare it with a Begi S kit which is ~1800 for a 1.8 kit. Add 150 For a "ebay" Clutch, ~180 For a GOOD pipe from Begi replacing the tiny 2.25 inch pipe that the S series comes with, Injectors, Intercooler w/piping, BOV. and Fuel management (Bandaids - ~350, Base MSPNP - 725)
Total Becomes around 1k More but buys you peace of mind knowing mostly everything will fit and work together.

Issue with CARB and in Cali. I figure that i will never be able to get a Sticker from Begi as they require proof of additional injectors, which no one will do. So im going to print the paper work and hope the officer/smog guy wont know the difference. (minus BOV, of course)

My mind is still not 100% set, in fact, as i was writing this my mind decided to look into the Begi kits again. Its a never ending cycle, i think i should just take the leap and buy something already.
Turbo - T25
275

HKS Manifold
http://www.optionimports.com/hkscairtumam1.html
256

Downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW
110

Feed and return lines
$130

Outlet Flange
http://www.theperformancedriver.com/...productid=3750
39

XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH KIT/ 94-02 MAZDA MIATA 1.8L
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-S...QQcmdZViewItem
169

Intercooler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTER...QQcmdZViewItem
82

BOV + Pipe
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...b6f46a8da4eeb0
100

Autotune + IAT sensor
780
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Old 11-15-2007, 07:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jobambo View Post

I have NO idea why no one is using the downpipe i have listed and having a shop weld in the easy part. I hope it will work, as it should.
One good reason is that with the manifold you listed, that turbo elbow will be attempting to punch the downpipe straight out through the left fender. Having a shop custom-fabricate you a downpipe that includes a divorced-tube design will be pretty expensive, to the point where it may be more cost-effective to just order a BEGI downpipe.

Also, where did you hear the BEGi-S DP is a 2.25"? I know the GReddy kit's DP is 2.25.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jobambo View Post
Turbo - T25
275

Feed and return lines
$130
The S kit comes with a turbo that retails for over $900 new. If you order the parts in the kit separately, and substitute a used turbo, you can hack off a pretty penny from the cost of the kit, but I wouldn't bother. The GT25R is a phenomenal turbo.

The MSPNP is a good choice, but you'll also need an LC-1 or a UEGO, and the Mapdaddy and EBC are good options. $950 is a good cost estimate for all those bits.

In addition, the IC pipes can get expensive if you don't have a welder. I spent $200 on mine, using silicone bends, aluminum pipes, and T-bolt clamps.

With $1100 into the clutch and ECU, you have $900 to get a manifold, custom-fab twin-tube DP, turbo, oil and water lines, intercooler and pipes, and an exhaust. If you can stretch your dollar that thin, I commend you.

BEGI-S: $1810 w/o FPR, w/ twin-tube DP
IC+Pipes: $300
MSPNP+LC1: $950
Clutch: $150 (that scares me, I'd much rather spend the $300 or so for an ACT HD)
Exhaust: $300

$3510

For the $1810 in the BEGI kit, you need to get the manifold, twin-tube DP, turbo, oil/water lines, and an air filter, and you need to make sure it all fits. You can do it cheaper so long as you use a cheap turbo.

Remember that if you intend on tracking the car, you will need an oil cooler ($200), radiator ($200), and a coolant re-route ($200).
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Old 11-15-2007, 11:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Also, where did you hear the BEGi-S DP is a 2.25"? I know the GReddy kit's DP is 2.25.
"The downpipe is 2.25” swaging up to 2.5” at the stock cat pipe" from Stephanie.

You dont think i can use that downpipe, cut off the flange and have a shop weld in the proper angles?

I have trust in the XTD clutches, its a well known clutch though out the 300zx community. only bad thing is that chatter a little.
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:24 AM   #31
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I hadn't heard that. Either way, if you drop the FPR and add the twin-tube DP, the price is $1810, and their twin-tube DP is 2.75".
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