SamS

iTrader: (2)

It didn't make sense to me either. Luckily my car isn't that low, but I still hit the o2 sensor enough times to get a new bung welded higher up on the side.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I've got a divorced DP as well. I even had them step it up to 3", vs the normal 2.75" that they use.

Honestly, for a twisties car, I almost prefer 6-8psi. If you want a car that will spin 2nd gear depending on pavement surface and air temperature, 220-230whp is great, but it's easy to keep tabs on 160-180 and you're still going damn fast.

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

I always forget just how much more power than stock we are talking about. With that in mind, I guess a 6-8psi setup would be ideal for me to start with, as I have still never gotten a turbo miata ride (both times the guy had one seat!), and it would be upgradeable to 200+ with the right fuel and engine management.

With that said, I think I'm going to start selling anything I can to get the s-series with the ceramic mani and ss downpipe as soon as possible. Plus I still have a bipes, voodoo box, and 305's (although they were never cleaned). So a respectable band aid setup, no? I'd just need to do the IC, and maybe clutch, although I have a new exedy stock replacement with 1500 miles on it, it might be ok for a while at the stock 5 or 6 psi right?

Markp

Ask Corky about the S-kit with a T3S60 compressor and a .48 A/R turbine sleeve bearing turbo. That's how I would want my low buck S kit configured. It doesn't cost more from Corky's standpoint to build it, since he does most everything in low volume to begin with.

Mark

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Just wait for scott to get back with his dyno from the dyno day to see how he does with his t3s60 (I think he has a .63 housing). We are hoping he puts down over 250whp with the 3" exhaust and the headwork I did.

speedf50

iTrader: (2)

Well they have posted up their IC option prices, and from what I can tell its quite reasonable. $645 for the IC kit and water bypass to make it all fit nice and pretty.

It would probably be cheaper to go with the DIY fleabay IC setup, but I remember hearing people spending up to $500 on various needed bits and pieces for the diy setup, so the BEGi kit which will definitely fit correctly doesn't sound like that bad of a deal.

And would anyone trust the stock clutch with 150whp?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

150 on the stock clutch is very close to the limit, but fine.

jobambo

Ok, i have been in the same boat as you for a long time now. I found out the Begi kit is still somewhat overpriced. Here is my list of my turbo build that i have been creating for the past 3 days. My main Goal was 230-250HP. If you wish to stay at ~150HP the Begi kit is for you.

My total is just under 2000. The current items that are missing are Injectors and Intercooler piping. Notice, this contains a MSPNP, if you decide to go with a bandaid kit, the total price will be a little less.

Separated Downpipes are Proven to work. I come from the 300zx crowd which has had the downpipe revolution a few years back. It is VERY rare to find a downpipe for a 300zx that is not separated now-a-days.
I have NO idea why no one is using the downpipe i have listed and having a shop weld in the easy part. I hope it will work, as it should.

How i compare it with a Begi S kit which is ~1800 for a 1.8 kit. Add 150 For a "ebay" Clutch, ~180 For a GOOD pipe from Begi replacing the tiny 2.25 inch pipe that the S series comes with, Injectors, Intercooler w/piping, BOV. and Fuel management (Bandaids - ~350, Base MSPNP - 725)
Total Becomes around 1k More but buys you peace of mind knowing mostly everything will fit and work together.

Issue with CARB and in Cali. I figure that i will never be able to get a Sticker from Begi as they require proof of additional injectors, which no one will do. So im going to print the paper work and hope the officer/smog guy wont know the difference. (minus BOV, of course)

My mind is still not 100% set, in fact, as i was writing this my mind decided to look into the Begi kits again. Its a never ending cycle, i think i should just take the leap and buy something already.
Turbo - T25
275

HKS Manifold
http://www.optionimports.com/hkscairtumam1.html
256

Downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW
110

Feed and return lines
$130

Outlet Flange
http://www.theperformancedriver.com/...productid=3750
39

XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH KIT/ 94-02 MAZDA MIATA 1.8L
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-S...QQcmdZViewItem
169

Intercooler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTER...QQcmdZViewItem
82

BOV + Pipe
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index...b6f46a8da4eeb0
100

Autotune + IAT sensor
780

Savington

iTrader: (31)

One good reason is that with the manifold you listed, that turbo elbow will be attempting to punch the downpipe straight out through the left fender. Having a shop custom-fabricate you a downpipe that includes a divorced-tube design will be pretty expensive, to the point where it may be more cost-effective to just order a BEGI downpipe.

Also, where did you hear the BEGi-S DP is a 2.25"? I know the GReddy kit's DP is 2.25.

The S kit comes with a turbo that retails for over $900 new. If you order the parts in the kit separately, and substitute a used turbo, you can hack off a pretty penny from the cost of the kit, but I wouldn't bother. The GT25R is a phenomenal turbo.

The MSPNP is a good choice, but you'll also need an LC-1 or a UEGO, and the Mapdaddy and EBC are good options. $950 is a good cost estimate for all those bits.

In addition, the IC pipes can get expensive if you don't have a welder. I spent $200 on mine, using silicone bends, aluminum pipes, and T-bolt clamps.

With $1100 into the clutch and ECU, you have $900 to get a manifold, custom-fab twin-tube DP, turbo, oil and water lines, intercooler and pipes, and an exhaust. If you can stretch your dollar that thin, I commend you.

BEGI-S: $1810 w/o FPR, w/ twin-tube DP
IC+Pipes: $300
MSPNP+LC1: $950
Clutch: $150 (that scares me, I'd much rather spend the $300 or so for an ACT HD)
Exhaust: $300

$3510

For the $1810 in the BEGI kit, you need to get the manifold, twin-tube DP, turbo, oil/water lines, and an air filter, and you need to make sure it all fits. You can do it cheaper so long as you use a cheap turbo.

Remember that if you intend on tracking the car, you will need an oil cooler ($200), radiator ($200), and a coolant re-route ($200).

jobambo

"The downpipe is 2.25” swaging up to 2.5” at the stock cat pipe" from Stephanie.

You dont think i can use that downpipe, cut off the flange and have a shop weld in the proper angles?

I have trust in the XTD clutches, its a well known clutch though out the 300zx community. only bad thing is that chatter a little.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I hadn't heard that. Either way, if you drop the FPR and add the twin-tube DP, the price is $1810, and their twin-tube DP is 2.75".