Who's done a coolant reroute? - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-15-2007, 01:00 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian View Post
That's partially how the traditional coolant re-route is accomplished. Moving the thermostat and outlet hose to the back of the head at the location you've described.

I've see the traditional version (a task much easier to undertake with the motor out of the car), which made me think of this.

Has anyone done a reroute as I have described here, and if so where did you plum the return line into?
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:44 AM   #62
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I can't recall anyone on this board that's done the "traditional" (read:more effective but more difficult) Miata coolant re-route.
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:59 AM   #63
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Depends what you call "traditional"
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Old 03-15-2007, 12:20 PM   #64
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Starsky did the "traditional"... since the head on his car is from an Escort.... so the themostat housing was already back there with a freeze plug on the "front".

Dave,
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Old 03-15-2007, 12:44 PM   #65
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Depends what you call "traditional"
Right...by "traditional," I mean the one first seen on the power list and M.net forums in which the thermostat and housing are moved to the back of the head, routed directly to the radiator and the front neck capped off.
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:09 PM   #66
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like mine (and yes, the heater source is on the wrong side of the tstat, but that was easy thing to do at the time)
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:10 PM   #67
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Thats the one I'm planning on doing. I'm unsure how to tap for my water cooled turbo now though...
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:20 PM   #68
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Most of these guys use the coolant source that's at the throttle body and then runs across the front of the engine. If you're a 1.6 there's that boss on the back of the head that Uncle A mentioned. Or you could just T off your heater core source - or just use a reducer if you've ditched the heater.
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:37 PM   #69
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Heater will be getting ditched, so the only coolant lines will be from the head to radiator and from the radiator to the block.

My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:44 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitime View Post
Heater will be getting ditched, so the only coolant lines will be from the head to radiator and from the radiator to the block.

My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
As said before, the heater core acts as a route for cooling before the Thermostat opens. Bypass it, but don't block it.
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Old 03-15-2007, 01:46 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian View Post
Right...by "traditional," I mean the one first seen on the power list and M.net forums in which the thermostat and housing are moved to the back of the head, routed directly to the radiator and the front neck capped off.
I did this EXCEPT: I moved the thermostat up front in the line to the top of the radiator so that it is accessable.
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Old 04-08-2007, 06:38 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starsky View Post
Sorry Stephanie, but it does affect heater warm-up time. The coolant reroute that I did sends the coolant from the heater back to the rad like yours does. It now takes about 3 times as long for the heater to get hot after a cold start.

Once the car is warm, there is no difference in heater function.
Well, you won that bet!
With the re-route it takes my car about 2 to 4 more miles to warm up. But once it is warm, the operating temps during cruise and on boost are about 5 deg. C less than before.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:16 AM   #73
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My coolant reroute consists of a Gates 28473 5/8" hose (60" + 90degree leg at 4 ") from the heater return to a tee 1.25X1.25X5/8 (from Jags that run) in the upper radiator hose, plus a 5/8 Dorman cap for the normal heater return hardpipe.

The car (2003 NA) no longer overheats, but sometimes takes too long to warm up and throws a corresponding MIL code. Not a problem on warm days. Temps have gone from regular boilover to below 200F. {I just got the ODB code reader (ELM327 bluetooth to Torque on an android phone)to reset the codes, but it also reports temps.}

My next step would be to replace the Thermostat in the front housing with a restrictor and place an inline thermostat after the T in the upper radiator hose. Somehow, it just doesn't seem right to me to have heated water not being cooled.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:27 AM   #74
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:41 AM   #75
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my coolant reroute we done this diy aboyt 2 years ago
my car now with reroyte system


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

and this fotos is the oldest who has inside all the materials to do this diy

http://img193.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc07720s.jpg
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:47 PM   #76
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^^^ Holy Blue Rat's Nest Batman!!!
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:24 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seraph View Post
^^^ Holy Blue Rat's Nest Batman!!!
beat me to it!
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:25 PM   #78
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Dogtits
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:09 PM   #79
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dogits, is that an aux fuel rail I see on the left of the manifold?
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:57 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falcon View Post
dogits, is that an aux fuel rail I see on the left of the manifold?
Yes, you can clearly see the first injector.

I don't know whether to cry or throw-up my hot pocket. This car has so many bandaids that I want to throw myself down a steep hill full of sharp pointy rocks so I have a place to put them all.
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